Another Front End Clunk/Pop thread

[DiscoCam]

Hello T4R forum members and Happy New Year. I hope everyone is doing well and staying safe.

So I have a 2016 4Runner SR5 4WD that is relatively stock (purchased new). Last summer (2019), I installed Bilstein 5100s front and rear, front is on the second increment (1/2" lift) for a nice level. Been fine ever since, but over the past few months I've noticed the seemingly common front end clunk/pop noise coming from the front left when I make a turn.

I think at this point I've read most, if not all, of the threads on this subject and it seems like the general consensus is that the sway bar links and/or bushings are the culprit. I think I agree, but I don't see any wear in the bushings and I don't feel like the links are bad (they still feel stiff, no play).

I am bringing this up now finally because I just drove it off road for the first time today and on corrugations I noticed the clunking a lot more. This is also the first time I used an IFS vehicle off road so I wasn't really sure what to expect (I usually take my 80 Series). I assume the front end is supposed to be quiet.

As far as drivability goes, it feels absolutely perfect. I can only hear a clunk, I don't feel anything otherwise. All the bushings in the front end look OK to me as well; upper and lower ball joints feel tight with no play in them either. So I am at a loss.

Any tips, experiences, ideas are welcome. I can live with clunk if it means nothing and its just something that these trucks do.
Thank you all in advance.

EDIT: Tire size is stock, 28k miles currently

 

[Mudballz]

Subscribed I have similar clunks after I installed my bp51 suspension my tech feels it might be my front sway bar links going so I ordered a set of adjustable ones from overland with an extra inch of height let you know as soon as I get/install them
Mike

 

[Chilow]

If you haven't already, inspect the bolts for the upper control arm. I had a clunk after adjusting suspension and found that the bolt got loose. Same as you, it drove/felt fine and if it wasn't for the noise, I wouldn't of known anything was wrong.

 

[fkheath]

Another thing to check is where the front spring fits with the spring seat. If the spring is not exactly fitting in the seat, it will cause a clunk. This is especially common if you have replaced the front springs/shocks/struts.

 

[rhadam]

I'd recommend installing new bump stops for the front end. When I lifted my truck I noticed the clunk/pop when i'd go over sharp dips. Installed new sway bar end links, not much change. Installed Durobumps... stopped most of the clunking. I think new bump stops are just a solid investment regardless. Hope you figure it out brother.

 

[DiscoCam]

- Will check the spring seat. This makes sense

- I will also look into bump stops. not much of a lift but I guess IFS is more sensitive to lifts so this also makes sense.

I checked the upper control arm bolts and they are tight. I just checked all the bolts and nuts again in the front end and everything feels tight.

The only thing I noticed was that the CVs kinda slide in and out of the differential a bit. The driver's side seems to move a tad more than the passenger side.
I know its normal to have some sliding movement, but I feel like maybe they have a little too much movement. But I have a hard time believing that the CVs or front diff are bad on a 28k mile 4Runner. I mean this was the first time I actually used 4WD. I know the CVs move all the time but this truck has had an easy life.

Idk this is a weird one fellas. Thanks for the suggestions so far. I will investigate more and keep the thread updated.

 

[Mudballz]

New uca and bumpstops already in I’ll check bolts and spring when I install the sway bar links on order thanks

 

[DiscoCam]

So I took some rather drastic measures today in trying to figure out what is going on. So I just disassembled the front end, tried to see if I could find something obvious ( I had some time to kill and there's not really much to do anymore with covid).

Found that both of my Bilstein 5100s had bad looking lower shock bushings. They were torn. They only have 6k miles on them so I can only think that I got unlucky or I screwed up the install.

Anyway, I was certain that was the problem so I threw in my original shocks with the same stock springs. And.... well it made no difference whatsoever.

Did some more research and found out about the front diff needle bearing TSB. Checked my front left CV joint again and I'm noticing radial play (I can move it up and down in the diff) along with the normal sliding play. I have no grinding/cyclical noise, just that clunk/pop. Sometimes it's like a creaking sound (it will pop multiple times).

The sound doesn't go away in 4WD either. If anything, when off-road, the sound occurs much more frequently.

So basically I'm back to stock and still got nothing. At least if I have to do the TSB the dealership can't blame aftermarket parts.

 

[teknoholic79]

I'm on the same boat as you. I took this video and found one of the noise,
Toyota 4Runner 5th Gen Owners

Also, if you have aftermarket skid plates, check those as well. My bolts were loose.

 

[Mo's TE]

The clunk has been driving crazy for some time now. I checked everything, visually there is nothing wrong.

Took it to an off-road shop they inspected everything checked all suspension bolts there is nothing loose.

So far I changed the sway bar bushes, rebuilt the Camburg UCAs ... still the same , I wish I had a go-pro camera so I would've filmed it in action to see what touching what.

Now I suspect hood (bonnet) maybe is the culprit, but not sure how to replicate the sound. But see is shaking while on bumps.

I think we may resort to similarities in build. Mine is 2015 trail on ebach lift 2.5in on front stock springs. Camburg UCAs. 2in rear lift Fox 2.0 shocks and toytech springs with bump stop spacers in the back.

Let's continue the discussion

 

[JeuTheIdit]

Did some more research and found out about the front diff needle bearing TSB. Checked my front left CV joint again and I'm noticing radial play (I can move it up and down in the diff) along with the normal sliding play. I have no grinding/cyclical noise, just that clunk/pop. Sometimes it's like a creaking sound (it will pop multiple times).

The sound doesn't go away in 4WD either. If anything, when off-road, the sound occurs much more frequently.

So basically I'm back to stock and still got nothing. At least if I have to do the TSB the dealership can't blame aftermarket parts.

Another option is to install the ECGS bushing instead that replaces the needle bearing. I think I have read some users here that got the TSB done and the noise/problem came back after a while.

It looks like a pretty easy install and I will be doing it sometime in the spring when it gets warmer.

 

[John in NC]

Stock 2011 here.
I had a clunk and got all my prop shafts/ zerks lubed, solved it.
May not solve your problem but I thought I would mention this for others that may be reading this and have a clunk.

 

[DiscoCam]

- only have the TRD Pro skid and the rest are factory. All fasteners are tight

- Hood rattle might be it I’m thinking. I adjusted it before and didn’t get much of an improvement (probably none) but I’m thinking maybe the rubber on the stop is dry and kinda sticking to the hood so when the body flexes on turns in gives instead of slides. Going to adjust this next and lube with some silicone paste

-another note on my hood, it does flex a lot when going over bumps. Never seen this on any other vehicle. Even my 25 year old land cruiser has a solid hood that just doesn’t flex. So maybe this attribute causes the hood to warp over time and the hood stops need to be adjusted frequently? I’ve either noticed the flexing more recently or it’s gotten worse over time.

-driveshafts are lubed. Again, coming from the 80 series, I am no stranger to drive shaft clunks. Luckily that’s simple to do. Just don’t over grease the slip joints!


Going to address the hood now and report back.

 

[fkheath]

Checked my front left CV joint again and I'm noticing radial play (I can move it up and down in the diff) along with the normal sliding play. I have no grinding/cyclical noise, just that clunk/pop.

ANY radial, up/down, play in the CV axles would be abnormal. May be the bearings in the differential or the CV joint it's self. You should look into that.

 

[DiscoCam]

ANY radial, up/down, play in the CV axles would be abnormal. May be the bearings in the differential or the CV joint it's self. You should look into that.

I agree, doesn’t seem normal. But the ECGS bushing listing has a video explaining this.

TOYOTA 8" CLAMSHELL CV AXLE BUSHING

Seems that by design, it’s gonna have some play up and down. While it doesn’t really inspire any confidence, that does seem to be just how it is.

I know I keep bringing up my land cruiser, but it does have something similar in the knuckle. There is a needle bearing (which replaced a bushing from the original design, Toyota deemed the needle bearing a better idea) that supports the end of the CV shaft in the front axle in the hub. This is not a tight feeling bearing at all. You can move the CV shaft inside the stub axle as if there’s no bearing at all. It just supports the bottom of the shaft at the CV end and the drive flange supports the other end. So Toyota has done this before where they just have a needle bearing support a CV that doesn’t feel tight at all but somehow it’s still doing it’s job.

On another note, I just finished adjusting my hood and did a test drive. Basically unscrewed the stops until the hood wouldn’t close with a normal amount of force, then backed them off a bit and closed the hood. Also put a dab of silicone paste on them. And I haven’t noticed anymore noises. So I’m thinking that was it. I’m not calling it just yet because I need to drive it more but so far it looks like it was the hood. I will report back tonight with hopefully a confirmation.

 

[delloro]

Another thing to check is where the front spring fits with the spring seat. If the spring is not exactly fitting in the seat, it will cause a clunk. This is especially common if you have replaced the front springs/shocks/struts.

Could you explain this a little more?

 

[jamoc]

I had a clunk. Tightened front body mount bolts under carpets on both sides. 2 person job. Problem solved!!

 

[DiscoCam]

Solved.

Clunk is gone. It was the hood.

Just to recap:

- adjusted hood stops and greased them with silicone grease
- I had adjusted them before but without the grease (I feel like that made a difference)

- no clue why my front bilstein shock on that corner has a bushing that’s almost completely failed. Pretty much just highway driving and only 6k miles. Going to contact blistein about this to see what my options are. For now, I am back to stock front shocks.

Thanks for all the input everyone. This was driving me crazy

 

[Mo's TE]

Clunk is gone. It was the hood.

Just to recap:

- adjusted hood stops and greased them with silicone grease
- I had adjusted them before but without the grease (I feel like that made a difference)

- no clue why my front bilstein shock on that corner has a bushing that’s almost completely failed. Pretty much just highway driving and only 6k miles. Going to contact blistein about this to see what my options are. For now, I am back to stock front shocks.

Thanks for all the input everyone. This was driving me crazy

Just the 2 black bump stops??? Man this is a very easy solution, and attached is the part with all the info needed. Thanks for reporting back

 

[DiscoCam]

Just the 2 black bump stops??? Man this is a very easy solution, and attached is the part with all the info needed. Thanks for reporting back

That's all it was. I just adjusted it until the hood wouldn't close and then backed it off a bit. All the panel gaps with the grill and fenders remained the same.

It's amazing how bad the lower shock bushing can get without making any noise. Mine was torn all the way through. But was still silent. Maybe it's time for a dobinsons kit.