Another one! anyone recognize this 3rd gen?

[4ranna]

Hi all - does anyone recognize this 3rd gen? It's spent its life around PA and MD from new. It's a 2000 Ltd with the diff lock option, it also has a few mods: 4th gen TRD supercharger (with a 2.2 Pulley and maybe 7th kit), updated headlights and tail-lights, jaos rear spoiler and a URD sticker!Also, maybe lifted slightly?

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It's one I'm thinking of picking up, pending a PPI. Any info would be great - thank you!

 

[kolelt]

PA, rust bucket state. If your not local, I personally just wouldn't buy without physically looking at it.

 

[octanejunkie]

I'm sorry, what's the point of this thread?

 

[Supersonic]

I'd really want to know the work quality of the 2 mods "4th gen TRD supercharger (with a 2.2 Pulley and maybe 7th kit)", "maybe lifted slightly". And an added super charger may also mean it was drove hard. My buddy was looking at a Vibe GT with an aftermarket intake, I just came out and told him you know they were driving that hard.

And the pulley alignment may have some issues that may be obvious and may not manifest for a long time, a 'project' that may best be solved by reverting back to the original intake, can you get them parts too?

 

[4ranna]

Problem solved!

Apologies for the random thread guys - I'd posted it in the hopes of finding some more information about the owner or anyone who knew the vehicle to get a sense of the history. Especially if the owner was a member of this forum, I might've found some contact info or a build thread (I figured they would have at least read this forum given some of the mods performed).

Turned out I found the previous owners contact info on some service receipts that came with the car - after the contacting them they were kind enough to give me a lot of background info I was looking for - especially as I'm looking to pull the trigger on buying it!

 

[kolelt]

No need for apologies. If you get more photos. Please share. We will try and help you the best we can. Again, be aware that PA is a rust bucket state. Sometimes even if it has it all. It's not worth it. Let us know. Hope everything works out. Are you local of the seller ?

 

[4ranna]

No need for apologies. If you get more photos. Please share. We will try and help you the best we can. Again, be aware that PA is a rust bucket state. Sometimes even if it has it all. It's not worth it. Let us know. Hope everything works out. Are you local of the seller ?

Thanks bud! So update is as follows:

The T4R I found was being sold locally by a Toyota service manager (he had first dibs on it as a trade-in and was flipping it). The car was owned in MD for 3 years and before that was bought new in PA. It's had Toyota history throughout which I dug up from toyota owners (what a great resource!).

I spent the past 3 days digging; I contacted URD and it turned out Gadget himself had worked on it and installed the 7th kit. After contacting the actual previous owner, he filled me on all the mods and maintenance work done, the condition and mileage on the s/c (will need a nose cone service in 15k). All the good mods and preventative maintenance have been done (it was serviced fully at Goss' Garage MD a month before being traded-in). Also the "maybe lifted slightly" turned out to be a full set of Monroe OEspectrum struts and shocks . Other good stuff done includes new Michelins and Sequoia 17's all round, trans flushed, diff fluids done, new pads, shoes and rotors all round.

I then had my mechanic give it a look over and put it on a lift - there is surface rust (definitely expected for a PA/MD vehicle) but the frame was strong and my mechanic verified it needed nothing doing (tying back with the previous owner's story). The lbj's were in great condition too even though they had not been replaced by the previous owner.

At this point I had enough peace of mind to pull the trigger! I'll be going to finalize everything tomorrow! :dance: :dance: :dance:

Bad points/work to do:

- I want to do a rust treatment and underseal...but am thinking of maybe waiting till after winter?
- Timing belt will be due in 15k (was done at 95k and it's at 170k now). I might do this together with supercharger overhaul in 15k
- Couple of small cosmetic issues (few nicks, been keyed and the mark is beginning to rust, scratch/surface rust where rear bumper has been pushed slightly)

But all it needs for now is:

- MD state inspection
- Coolant flush to be safe
- A damn good vacuuming inside!

I'll post pics and a mod list once it's all ready

HUGE shout out to this forum for all the resources and arming me with the knowledge!

 

[kolelt]

How many miles are on the 4runner ? Get some photos of the undercarriage. If you trust your mechanic, and if your happy. Then go for it. Sounds like it was maintained. Double check the LBJ just to make sure. And if they are not toyota LBJ. Replace it with OEM. You'll be thanking us in the end.

So for you rust maintenance. There are a lot of threads on here. But I'll tell you the basic products and steps.

You will want to power wash your inside frame. As best as you can. There are plenty of drain holes to get the power washer in there. Work from the front end towards the back. Blow everything out with air. Let it air dry for a day or two. (Don't drive it around let it sit) go ahead and order Eastwood internal frame coating. About 5-6 cans. Coat the inside of your frame carefully. This is optional but I recommend it. Order fluid film or Eastwood heavy duty grease. The Eastwood heavy duty grease will come with a extended nozzle. It's like fluid film but stickier. You can apply both products to the inside of the frame. BE AWARE THAT AFTER APPLYING EASTWOOD HEAVY DUTY GREASE OR FLUID FILM INSIDE THE FRAME WILL BE IMPOSSIBLE TO PAINT INSIDE OF THE FRAME. THAT IS WHY YOU PAINT THE INSIDE FIRST. Then you can clean up any lose rust or surface rust. Prime it, paint it and coat the whole undercarriage with fluid film. You can order a gallon for $50 roughly. Get a brush, safety glasses and gloves. And go to town under the car. Apply it all over the frame and what not.

Another important thing. Clean the rear top shock towers. Dirt and mud accumulates over year. And the drain hole gets clogged up. That's also a good area to apply fluid film.

Fluid film and Eastwood heavy duty grease is sticky grease. Repels water. It's not forever so you need to keep up with it about every 6 months.

You can apply Eastwood internal frame coating to any cavity. For example: the rear upper control mounts. Or body cavities.

1)wash the frame and undercarriage
2)dry
3)Eastwood internal frame coating and cavities.
4)take care of any surface rust or any rust. ( Por-15, chassis saver for bad areas ).
5) fluid film or Eastwood heavy duty grease.

 

[octanejunkie]

Why was the transmission flushed? How new is the radiator?

 

[John7M7]

. It's had Toyota history throughout which I dug up from toyota owners (what a great resource!).
!

What resource are you referring to?

 

[Kanoe]

Also the "maybe lifted slightly" turned out to be a full set of Monroe OEspectrum struts and shocks .

Not to be an a$$ but just to inform. Take this as it is intended.

Those monroe struts and shocks are the bottom of the barrel. There is really no cheaper or worse option you could have on it. Someone put those on as a quick fix to sell it I wound bet. I have put all 4 corners on 2 cars in the past and I have been very disappointed both times. Clunking in the cold first winter, and just a generally crap ride. As in "I think these need replacing!" at less than 1 year.

Please do not consider those a plus as you will likely be replacing suspension soon, unless you really don't care how it rides.

Again, just FYI.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

I'm sorry, what's the point of this thread?

:suspicious:

 

[John7M7]

:suspicious:

View attachment 278901

:rofl:

 

[Mark_BC]

I'd spray inside the frame with Ospho before putting on frame coating, it will turn the rust to a paintable surface. I painted some accessible areas with Eastwood frame paint without using Ospho first and it had very poor adhesion, basically just a waste of paint IMHO which is definitely not cheap. Spray Ospho after you pressure wash inside to remove loose flakes. Let it dry after pressure washing. Then spray Ospho through the holes (be careful, it's nasty stuff). Let it sit overnight then wash it out the next day. You will see the rust all turned black and white. Then let it dry and paint with Eastwood internal frame paint. Ospho is cheap, Eastwood frame paint isn't.

 

[Scramble]

I'm sorry, what's the point of this thread?

What?

 

[Scramble]

Thanks bud! So update is as follows:

The T4R I found was being sold locally by a Toyota service manager (he had first dibs on it as a trade-in and was flipping it). The car was owned in MD for 3 years and before that was bought new in PA. It's had Toyota history throughout which I dug up from toyota owners (what a great resource!).

I spent the past 3 days digging; I contacted URD and it turned out Gadget himself had worked on it and installed the 7th kit. After contacting the actual previous owner, he filled me on all the mods and maintenance work done, the condition and mileage on the s/c (will need a nose cone service in 15k). All the good mods and preventative maintenance have been done (it was serviced fully at Goss' Garage MD a month before being traded-in). Also the "maybe lifted slightly" turned out to be a full set of Monroe OEspectrum struts and shocks . Other good stuff done includes new Michelins and Sequoia 17's all round, trans flushed, diff fluids done, new pads, shoes and rotors all round.

I then had my mechanic give it a look over and put it on a lift - there is surface rust (definitely expected for a PA/MD vehicle) but the frame was strong and my mechanic verified it needed nothing doing (tying back with the previous owner's story). The lbj's were in great condition too even though they had not been replaced by the previous owner.

At this point I had enough peace of mind to pull the trigger! I'll be going to finalize everything tomorrow! :dance: :dance: :dance:

Bad points/work to do:

- I want to do a rust treatment and underseal...but am thinking of maybe waiting till after winter?
- Timing belt will be due in 15k (was done at 95k and it's at 170k now). I might do this together with supercharger overhaul in 15k
- Couple of small cosmetic issues (few nicks, been keyed and the mark is beginning to rust, scratch/surface rust where rear bumper has been pushed slightly)

But all it needs for now is:

- MD state inspection
- Coolant flush to be safe
- A damn good vacuuming inside!

I'll post pics and a mod list once it's all ready

HUGE shout out to this forum for all the resources and arming me with the knowledge!

Congrats & good luck with her! Sounds like you did your homework.

 

[4ranna]

Firstly - thanks for the great replies! I have my T4R and I'm really happy with it

How many miles are on the 4runner ? Get some photos of the undercarriage. If you trust your mechanic, and if your happy. Then go for it. Sounds like it was maintained. Double check the LBJ just to make sure. And if they are not toyota LBJ. Replace it with OEM. You'll be thanking us in the end.

So for you rust maintenance. There are a lot of threads on here. But I'll tell you the basic products and steps.

You will want to power wash your inside frame. As best as you can. There are plenty of drain holes to get the power washer in there. Work from the front end towards the back. Blow everything out with air. Let it air dry for a day or two. (Don't drive it around let it sit) go ahead and order Eastwood internal frame coating. About 5-6 cans. Coat the inside of your frame carefully. This is optional but I recommend it. Order fluid film or Eastwood heavy duty grease. The Eastwood heavy duty grease will come with a extended nozzle. It's like fluid film but stickier. You can apply both products to the inside of the frame. BE AWARE THAT AFTER APPLYING EASTWOOD HEAVY DUTY GREASE OR FLUID FILM INSIDE THE FRAME WILL BE IMPOSSIBLE TO PAINT INSIDE OF THE FRAME. THAT IS WHY YOU PAINT THE INSIDE FIRST. Then you can clean up any lose rust or surface rust. Prime it, paint it and coat the whole undercarriage with fluid film. You can order a gallon for $50 roughly. Get a brush, safety glasses and gloves. And go to town under the car. Apply it all over the frame and what not.

Another important thing. Clean the rear top shock towers. Dirt and mud accumulates over year. And the drain hole gets clogged up. That's also a good area to apply fluid film.

Fluid film and Eastwood heavy duty grease is sticky grease. Repels water. It's not forever so you need to keep up with it about every 6 months.

You can apply Eastwood internal frame coating to any cavity. For example: the rear upper control mounts. Or body cavities.

1)wash the frame and undercarriage
2)dry
3)Eastwood internal frame coating and cavities.
4)take care of any surface rust or any rust. ( Por-15, chassis saver for bad areas ).
5) fluid film or Eastwood heavy duty grease.

It's at 170k now. I didn't take pics of the frame while my mechanic had it lifted but I will try to when I take it for a service and state inspection this week. I will definitely double check the LBJ's again also.

I'd spray inside the frame with Ospho before putting on frame coating, it will turn the rust to a paintable surface. I painted some accessible areas with Eastwood frame paint without using Ospho first and it had very poor adhesion, basically just a waste of paint IMHO which is definitely not cheap. Spray Ospho after you pressure wash inside to remove loose flakes. Let it dry after pressure washing. Then spray Ospho through the holes (be careful, it's nasty stuff). Let it sit overnight then wash it out the next day. You will see the rust all turned black and white. Then let it dry and paint with Eastwood internal frame paint. Ospho is cheap, Eastwood frame paint isn't.

Thank you both for the excellent info on rust maintenance. Couple Q's - it sounds like I really need to get the car on a lift before I can attempt to do this work properly - would I be better off just finding a specialist who can do this? Also, would it be better to just make it through this winter and do the job properly in spring, or get it done ASAP?

Why was the transmission flushed? How new is the radiator?

I'm quoting the prior owner who had the trans fluid done as part of a full service earlier this year (alongside several other regular maintenance items) at a reputable shop. I'll ask for more details on this when I take it back to the shop - i.e. what method they used flush vs drain/fill.

RE the radiator - it looks original and in good condition (not mint though). This was inspected in the last service and by my mechanic too. I have the service history and there's no indication it was changed, however I'll get this looked at again when I get the car serviced as the coolant hasn't been flushed recently and needs doing.

What resource are you referring to?

I found this link in the (incredibly useful) buyer's guide:

+Maintenance Records Research
It is very important to know the maintenance history of your potential purchase. If the seller does not provide a carfax or similar report, there are ways to get one as long as you have the VIN. Carfax costs money, instead try this service from toyota:
- Toyota Owners - Official Toyota Owners Website

I registered on there and put in the VIN and boom - all the service history dating back to 2000 showed up! I'm guessing this was easy as it had been serviced at Toyota most its life

Not to be an a$$ but just to inform. Take this as it is intended.

Those monroe struts and shocks are the bottom of the barrel. There is really no cheaper or worse option you could have on it. Someone put those on as a quick fix to sell it I wound bet. I have put all 4 corners on 2 cars in the past and I have been very disappointed both times. Clunking in the cold first winter, and just a generally crap ride. As in "I think these need replacing!" at less than 1 year.

Please do not consider those a plus as you will likely be replacing suspension soon, unless you really don't care how it rides.

Again, just FYI.

Fair enough! I had no idea about this so thanks for informing me The actual previous owner said he purchased these as they were recommended to him and were closest to OEM - I take it he was informed wrong?