another rusty 4th gen 4runner thread

[hutchison]

http://im.toyota-4runner.org/images/smilies/attention.gif
this is my first post , and my 5th toyota over a 20 yr period http://www.toyota-4runner.org/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
this is my newest toyota, oldest was 85' mr2 (would now be 33yr old).

i've brand wise experience with "toyrotters" ....


I was aware when I brought this car of the minor rust issues, aches and pains.
I just want to post up my progress, and my choices of restoration remedies.

first i just want to note about the 2 piece ramps they get the vehicle high enough to use a creeper comfortable







now for the ugly stuff .. its actually not that bad, i've seen a lot worse in other threads. this is about the worst of it on the front lower cross bar, particularly at the corners. It seems these corners are traps for dirt & small pieces of rust (inside) it holds moisture and it just rots further.









looking further back its in better shape, although some small paint flaking on the welds in various places.











overall, the undercarriage is more black than orange, which is good



SO i got a drill and some wire brushes to break off all the loose stuff , dont want it clogging up the flapper wheel!.

i'm going to take it step by step from front to back, de-rust with tools, degrease, clean, and then use chasis saver paint. Ive not read many great reviews about 'rust convertor' products, so i think i'll use them where its difficult to grind, as opposed to whitewashing. I prefer to get the rust off to cleaner metal.

wire wheel gets me this far yesterday









next step grinder.

I just want to show this picture and point out the green arrow hole, i was abled to put my small fingers in there and pusll out small pieces of rust, and wet dirt and more rust. i may drill some access holes in the ---> sides of this so i get some air in and prying tools and blow out this closed area.

I am going to use eastwood internal coating inside of the steel section

 

[OC2003]

So glad mine has lived it's life on he west coast. Looks like you caught it in time though hopefully

 

[venomj]

My 2008 has same amount of rust, although I drove it from east coast to bay area 4 years ago.

 

[ScooterMD]

OP that's really not that bad. not bad at all. looks very superficial. i posted recently on how i used rust dissolver and then rust reformer before painting with chasis paint. mine was much worse. i've been pleased with the result.

 

[mjotrainbrain]

Looks pretty good to me! Certainly seems like there's no significant rot issues other than maybe a tiny bit on that rad crossmember, can't complain about that! Good luck with the "restoration", hopefully it comes out (and lasts) well for ya!

 

[hutchison]

OP that's really not that bad. not bad at all. looks very superficial. i posted recently on how i used rust dissolver and then rust reformer before painting with chasis paint. mine was much worse. i've been pleased with the result.

what brand did you use for the rust reformer? does the paint stick ok to it?

 

[hutchison]

im going to make sure I document my maintenance well , with pictures in the case of rust prevention work. And thin layers of protective coating which is un-textured so it can be seen there are no major rust defects to hide.

reading this thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/263999-how-do-you-check-rust-frame-like.html

shows me that underbody protection can be taken as attempt to hide rust, I guess there is extreme conditions and they differ. personally i am not trying to hide rust i am trying prolong its advance!. It's got to be better than leaving it untreated. i will not plaster the underneath with lumpy under coat paint. I'll use thin coats of matt stuff for the most part. its going to extend the life of whats under there if done correct.

 

[99Runnr]

I used flapper disc on an angle grinder, dremel sanding bit does best work to get in the contour's around weld's on the frame as you showed. I used Rustoleam Rust reformer an it bonded GREAT for me. It has a matte black finish an smooth. I did 2-4 coat's of that depending on location an then "Professional grade" under coating as well. It has held up great for the last 10 months.

I just recently used Eastwood internal frame coating and was extremely disappointed. The product itself works fine, but the hose/nozzle they give you failed badly. It come's in a tiny plastic bag in a small spiral. When you take it out of the bag, it just wraps up on itself. So I did my best to get it straight an unbound, then went as far as taping the line to a large ziptie. It just bound up an curled inside my frame, so as I sprayed, the nozzle would aim at the side of the frame, or the bottom. So it did NOT spray in a 360* circle, it just ended up coating an puddling on the bottom of my frame rail. I tried spinning the line, angling, nothing worked well for me. So out of the 3 can's I bought an used in their entirety, about 25% of it sprayed as it should. Something to keep in mind, I didn't call an complain or anything, maybe they have some constructive advice. Otherwise, inside my frame looked great anyways so I just accepted the reassurance the bottom of my frame rails are all coated, very well.

 

[Jdevtac]

I used flapper disc on an angle grinder, dremel sanding bit does best work to get in the contour's around weld's on the frame as you showed. I used Rustoleam Rust reformer an it bonded GREAT for me. It has a matte black finish an smooth. I did 2-4 coat's of that depending on location an then "Professional grade" under coating as well. It has held up great for the last 10 months.

I just recently used Eastwood internal frame coating and was extremely disappointed. The product itself works fine, but the hose/nozzle they give you failed badly. It come's in a tiny plastic bag in a small spiral. When you take it out of the bag, it just wraps up on itself. So I did my best to get it straight an unbound, then went as far as taping the line to a large ziptie. It just bound up an curled inside my frame, so as I sprayed, the nozzle would aim at the side of the frame, or the bottom. So it did NOT spray in a 360* circle, it just ended up coating an puddling on the bottom of my frame rail. I tried spinning the line, angling, nothing worked well for me. So out of the 3 can's I bought an used in their entirety, about 25% of it sprayed as it should. Something to keep in mind, I didn't call an complain or anything, maybe they have some constructive advice. Otherwise, inside my frame looked great anyways so I just accepted the reassurance the bottom of my frame rails are all coated, very well.

I taped the hose to a cut length of coat hanger wire and it did fine. You just need something relatively rigid, and with the wire you can bend it to get it to fit better in certain areas then straighten it out to do longer runs of frame.

Even still, the problem with the coat hanger is if you go in on one side of the frame, you’ll end up spraying more on one side of the vertical box of the frame than the other so it’s best to alternate which frame hole on either side of the frame you spray into.

 

[ScooterMD]

what brand did you use for the rust reformer? does the paint stick ok to it?

This was my recent post:
"I bought an 07 4R 2 years ago from Ohio. It's frame had a lot of rust on it but it did not look as bad as yours. There were no obvious holes or defects and the skid plates were still (mostly) intact.

At first, I tried to sandblast off the rust. This was a complete waste of time and money. Then I started spraying it with rust dissolver (like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431.html). The rust dissolver worked extremely well as long as I could spray it heavily and let it soak in for several hours, repeatedly spraying as it soaked in. I probably went through two gallons of the stuff. I also tried my best to spray on the inside of the frame. I should mention I was living in Arizona and I just parked the truck in the desert beside my house and had no issue with chemicals/water dripping into the sand.

I would then wash it off really well with a pressure washer and let it dry, which only took a few hours in the AZ sun. I probably repeated this 2-3 times on the entire frame until I really didn't see much rust leftover. It worked well.

Rather soon after pressure washing and allowing it to dry (within a day or two), I would then spray it really well with rust reformer (https://www.harborfreight.com/9-oz-iron-armor-black-rust-reformer-spray-paint-60788.html). This worked well also and I probably used 12 cans. I then sprayed parts I wanted black with chasis paint (https://www.harborfreight.com/11-oz-iron-armor-gloss-black-chassis-and-grille-paint-60780.html).

Overall, it worked extremely well and I see no recurrence of rust 2 years out. Also, my truck has been in Arizona since doing this, so who knows what would have happened elsewhere. I just relocated to the NE, so check back with me in 6 months and I'll let you know how it has held up."

 

[Burt]

I would consider upgrading to a newer vehicle. When it's done it's time.

 

[hutchison]

I would consider upgrading to a newer vehicle. When it's done it's time.

thats the most sensible suggestion!, however, i am limited by budget and dont do credit.

 

[hutchison]

This was my recent post:
"I bought an 07 4R 2 years ago from Ohio. It's frame had a lot of rust on it but it did not look as bad as yours. There were no obvious holes or defects and the skid plates were still (mostly) intact.

At first, I tried to sandblast off the rust. This was a complete waste of time and money. Then I started spraying it with rust dissolver (like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431.html). The rust dissolver worked extremely well as long as I could spray it heavily and let it soak in for several hours, repeatedly spraying as it soaked in. I probably went through two gallons of the stuff. I also tried my best to spray on the inside of the frame. I should mention I was living in Arizona and I just parked the truck in the desert beside my house and had no issue with chemicals/water dripping into the sand.

I would then wash it off really well with a pressure washer and let it dry, which only took a few hours in the AZ sun. I probably repeated this 2-3 times on the entire frame until I really didn't see much rust leftover. It worked well.

Rather soon after pressure washing and allowing it to dry (within a day or two), I would then spray it really well with rust reformer (https://www.harborfreight.com/9-oz-iron-armor-black-rust-reformer-spray-paint-60788.html). This worked well also and I probably used 12 cans. I then sprayed parts I wanted black with chasis paint (https://www.harborfreight.com/11-oz-iron-armor-gloss-black-chassis-and-grille-paint-60780.html).

Overall, it worked extremely well and I see no recurrence of rust 2 years out. Also, my truck has been in Arizona since doing this, so who knows what would have happened elsewhere. I just relocated to the NE, so check back with me in 6 months and I'll let you know how it has held up."

appreciate that information thanks

 

[hutchison]

well i poked my head undernesth yesterday evening and saw a damp spot about where the rust was, looks like this is an old leak i saw some dried pink crystals around the area. im not sure if i aggrevated it by knocking the rad frame with the drill chuck a few times when it was spining , i guess i'll never know for sure. goid job i decided to tackle the rust i may have missed this small leak. car is 2 months from purchase and no visible loss in the coolant tank.


original pics show evidence


now



so i guess new rad. it will give me the chance to get to the top of that lower crossmember for de-rust and treating.

anything else while im there?
thermostat, rad, waterpump, for life.

anyone know how to change the stat/pump do need take any belts off etc

 

[meltdowner]

You could start shaving that down. It will take you a few days or a week for sure, but it might be worth it. Take a drill or grinder and get it down to bare metal then hit it with a few coats of undercoating. It'll last another 10 years.

 

[hutchison]

You could start shaving that down. It will take you a few days or a week for sure, but it might be worth it. Take a drill or grinder and get it down to bare metal then hit it with a few coats of undercoating. It'll last another 10 years.

i may do that. i wonder what kind of undercoat would work with mpc chasis saver paint?


im just going to change the rad on a need basis. i got a denso 221-3117 for $107 on the way.

if i was going to change the thermostat i should change the pump, then i should get new belt & pulleys, then chains!, if chains then gaskets!. its endless.

i have to approach this on a need basis, before my wallet starts twitching with fear.
im spending money later on susp bushings & lift.

 

[meltdowner]

i may do that. i wonder what kind of undercoat would work with mpc chasis saver paint?


im just going to change the rad on a need basis. i got a denso 221-3117 for $107 on the way.

if i was going to change the thermostat i should change the pump, then i should get new belt & pulleys, then chains!, if chains then gaskets!. its endless.

i have to approach this on a need basis, before my wallet starts twitching with fear.
im spending money later on susp bushings & lift.

I'm doing this right now, I'll let you know how it goes. It's going to be long hard work without proper tools, and of course, I don't have proper tools.

 

[hutchison]

I'm doing this right now, I'll let you know how it goes. It's going to be long hard work without proper tools, and of course, I don't have proper tools.

please do, appreciate it. i saw a rad swap guide on YT took the guy all of a couple hours, assuming nothing shears or splits im happy.

 

[meltdowner]

I just spent the last 6 hours under and around the truck.

Here are some of my most valuable rust removal tools:
Chisel set, 3 different sizes. Small hammer. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Buck-Bros-Economy-Wood-Chisel-Set-3-Piece-40601/100076202

These drill bits: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWRIAGQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (this one was the best of the bits)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-...-SearchPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-202831066-_-N

Various size steel wool drill bits. I can't find the links but you can get them cheap from home depot.

After you can see beautiful silver steel, hit it with some WD-40 Rust Remover and let it sit awhile. Wipe it all down after, oh 10-30minutes, then spray it with the Rustoleum.

After that, let the rustoleum dry overnight. Come back the next day then hit the same spot you hit with rustoleum... with this: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-2...&sr=1-1&keywords=rustoleum+undercoating+spray

Now you got some seriously protection that should last you at least a year. It will likely last a lot longer than a year but I say a year because it's good to assume 1 year then check it every spring.

It's really not so bad of a job. I mean, it sucks and you will get dirty and greasy for hours but when it's all done, the peace of mind will be extremely worth it. I lost my 97 t-bird v8 to rust and will never let it happen again.:hunter:


edit: oh I jacked the car up too. I got 3-ton stands x 4 from local Harbor Freight (24$ a set) and they had a sale on 3-ton low profile jack, got that for 79$. Friggin worth it. The jack and stands aren't that heavy. If you don't have some, get 'em.

 

[hutchison]

The rad was off in about 45 minutes, it drained off 3 quarts.

I decided to pull off the bumper to get to the bumper bar and better access for painting. did not take long although the screws up inside the arch that hole the bumper on are a sob!, without taking the arch liners off i had a mini ratchet to reach up in.




i do this, saves head scratchin later.



the bumper bar looked OK assembled, but you could see where the two joins are the paint was split and there was some corrosion. maybe because moisture is held in the gap or something like that.



used my phone& flash light up against the chasis rail get a good look inside, scary !, why did toyota make large cutouts in the sides of the chasis rails?, i'm not understanding that , seems counter productive, almost on purpose. you can see all the stones and dirt that probably flicked up from the road just sitting in there, and the split paint. not so much internal corrosion, however enough to lift the paint and start attacking the surface.



so the duct tape came in handy and vac'd it out





followed by some eastwood internal frame coating, this paint has some zinc in it and resins. This stuff sprays in a good 360 degree pattern + a forward jet with a 24" flexible hose, probably a bit too much flow but it soaks the inside well. not sure its possible to take off your chasis rails!, so this preventitive measure is one of limited options you can do. use some wood to stiff up the flexi tube. and a hand shield!



pushed all in and drawn out slowly like (10 secs) it coated everything. for $15 a tin what more could you ask for if your working at your home, there cant be too many solutions about , i'm happy for the price, i guess time will tell how good or not is it, however for an almost impossible job good to see someone came up with a reasonable nozzle set up with zinc in it. beats the days of squirting dinitrol into your chasis and hoping for the best!.



you tape up the frame holes, spray pattern shows up on the tape covered all.



painted up the front lower crossmember its a little bit lumpy, but i aint hiding the rust by making it smooth!. i took off as much loose rust as possible before and used MPC chasis saver paint which is like yacht varnish with engine oil in it!, its very very sticky, and i made sure i keyed it with 60 grit all over and degrease. The chasis saver paint i can tell is going to last a very long time, its similar to por15 but thicker and stickier. i'll hedge my bets and say its going to work, i'll report back per year.





in case you wonder what a bumper bar is like its two piece , that might be useful knowledge if you have a crash. splits apart with 4 bolts. there as not much corrosion on it only at the joins, i wire wheeled and sanded it off and blasted it with chasis saver.



as opposed to not coating your chasis, this has got be better resistance. chasis is not something you take off and work on the bench or a blasting cabinet. i prefer hard coatings for underneath, of course... if you have enough decent metal and are not to trying to hide bad spots, it can only do good. I toyed with just cutting the front lower cross member off and welding in some 60mm x 3mm box section (or 2.5" box ) however, i'm not at that stage where the metal is rotten that bad, although the surface was heavily pitted. who was the goon that took off the front skid pan tray before i brought the vehicle!.

Once this work done I will be putting the pan back.