Another stuck key...

[allthatisman]

Hey all, I have a couple questions for trying to diagnose this issue that just popped up... My runner is a 1996 with a mere 260k on it and just the other day, I couldn't get the key to release. I can shut the truck off, but the key won't go the extra click so that I can pull it out. I managed to figure out that if I turn it forward to the point that the truck will begin to turn over, and then all the way back again, the key will release. Upon doing this, my Clifford alarm will beep once. So far this has been the only way I can drive the thing.

Now, given the age of the truck (I'm the 2nd owner, as of 8 months ago), it could be many things... the ignition was the first thing I thought of since I have always had issues with it (sometimes I need to pull the key out, flip it around and re-insert it to start), and both keys are not original Toyota keys. Neither of the keys fit into the door loks very well... I also read that the shift lock is a common thing, and of course my shifter is kind of loose.

I already bought a new iginition assembly for $130 at the dealer, but I can return it if I dont install it. I'd really hate to install it to only find that it was a bad key or something...

Could the alarm possibly cause this...?

One other thing, totally un-related, but my intake hose has a crack on it and I've had no luck finding a cheap stock replacement, so I decided to get one of these:

Airaid Modular Intake Tube 510-934 | eBay

The application doesn't list 96-98 4runners for some reason... is this just a stupid typo, or is there a difference?

Thanks for reading my long-ish post!

 

[Pikeman]

It is a really good chance that it is the ignition switch being a problem. Toyota used a split wafer design for the gates on the keyway. Sometimes as the switch ages the wafers can jump and trap the other one not allowing the switch to rotate. Normally it is going from park to the on/ start position. I had this happen in the middle of the desert and man was it a long wait for the locksmith to come fix it. Since yours is on the way back to remove the key I would do the check the shift lever position indicator that someone made a thread on, and seems you made reference to. This would be the easiest and least expensive repair(will cross my fingers for you). The alarm would not cause the problem you describe.


On the air intake, they are different applications. The 99 and newer run a different MAF and takes a different length size tube than the 96-98. You will have to find an intake for the 96-98 model years.

 

[allthatisman]

It is a really good chance that it is the ignition switch being a problem. Toyota used a split wafer design for the gates on the keyway. Sometimes as the switch ages the wafers can jump and trap the other one not allowing the switch to rotate. Normally it is going from park to the on/ start position. I had this happen in the middle of the desert and man was it a long wait for the locksmith to come fix it. Since yours is on the way back to remove the key I would do the check the shift lever position indicator that someone made a thread on, and seems you made reference to. This would be the easiest and least expensive repair(will cross my fingers for you). The alarm would not cause the problem you describe.

I pulled the center console up last night, but it was getting dark and I have a broken wrist with a cast on my left arm (mtn biking accident FTL...) so I just slapped it back together. The only thing that puzzles me and makes me think the problem ISN'T the ignition is the fact that if I turn the key far enough to just barely start the truck, it releases the key. No amount of tugging or jiggling works, but if the starter barely cranks, that unlocks it... do you think that might be reseting that module on the shifter?


On the air intake, they are different applications. The 99 and newer run a different MAF and takes a different length size tube than the 96-98. You will have to find an intake for the 96-98 model years.

Well I just found a write-up on yoda-tech that kind of answers my question, but contradicts your response:

Installing the Airaid MIT / Jr. on your 4Runner or Taco? Consider this... - YotaTech Forums

Thanks for the response, any other ideas?

 

[Pikeman]

Well it can contradict my response all it wants. Fact remains the same that the intakes especially the MAF sensor are different on the 96-98 and the 99+. I have a 98 and was first given the one for the 99 newer, it did not work and had to go back and they found the one for the 98 and older that worked. That being said there are ways to get just about anything to work with a little ingenuity. Example would be Apollo 13 creating the air filtration system.

 

[ryanbt]

I would also get new keys from the dealer cut from the VIN (and therefore an original and not a copy or a copy of a copy). I did this for my '96 two weeks ago. Much better! They are $5 for the metal master, or $10 for the black plastic master and another $5 for the sub/valet key.

 

[allthatisman]

I would also get new keys from the dealer cut from the VIN (and therefore an original and not a copy or a copy of a copy). I did this for my '96 two weeks ago. Much better! They are $5 for the metal master, or $10 for the black plastic master and another $5 for the sub/valet key.

I took Thursday off, so I'll hit up the dealer and report back my results!

 

[awdjunkies]

I took Thursday off, so I'll hit up the dealer and report back my results!

Good Idea :thumb3:

 

[allthatisman]

UPDATE:

So back when in November I removed all the other keys from my key chain and was left with one key, and the alarm fob and magically, the ignition released the key like it should. I've been driving the truck like this without fail sicne November... or course this week, it happened again. Key wont turn back farther than the ACC position. BUT... I can still turn it forward like I'm turning on the truck, to the point where it almost turns over the starter, then back again, and it will release. Funny thing about this is that the alarm will chirp like I just turned off the alarm... I'm really perplexed by this...

So I decide, at this point, I should just replace the ignition switch and the new key it comes with. Went and bought a new ignition switch and key for $120, installed it without fail. Works fine. Drive to work the next morning, park the truck, go to turn it off, key stuck in the EXACT same fashion.

The first thing I checked back in November was the switch on the shifter, which is sort of loose, but it was always in the proper position when the key was stuck. I'm out of ideas and about to just take it to the dealer and prepare for the bending over of a lifetime...

Any ideas?