Another Transmission Fluid Thread...

Mel0

New member
After checking my records and the state of trans fluid I'm ready to dump the old stuff and possibly change out the radiator since I have no record of that ever being done. According to my service records I have 60,000 on my trans fluid and it is no longer red but more of a brownish light orange color. I know there are countless threads regarding flushing or draining and refilling multiple times but I can't seem to find any clear cut answer as to how many qts. of fluid I'll need to do a full change with dropping the pan and all. My runner is a 98' auto with the A340F transmission. It seems as though the general rule of thumb is you put in what you take out but about how many qts. should I buy? The service record shows 12qts.....Also, how on earth do you get an accurate reading on that PITA dipstick??? Oh, and anyone know the size bolt I need to bolt the dipstick tube back on the engine? Mine is no-longer bolted on for whatever reason.
 
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Have at least a gallon around when you do a drain/fill. I usually get 3.5 quarts out of the pan if I let it sit overnight. Any name brand Dexron 3 or above will work. I got the standard Castrol Dex/Merc from Advance but I will switch to Mobil 1 ATF later. You may want to drive the 4Runner around for a week to get the fluid through the system if you do a drain/fill since it hasn't been changed in a while. Keep doing that until the fluid comes out red. From then on I would do drain/fills once a year.
 
a good flush will take 12-14qts some people me included go 16 just to be sure. fyi the dealer measures volume by weight, so it could be a little more difficult to do the conversion...
 
If you got that many miles on it and doing the radiator etc it makes no sense to do just a drain and fill, that is worthless at best.
Get yourself about 15 qts and take it to a T-Tech machine or do it yourself if you have another person to help it would be much easier.

Personally I think you are much better off using a full synthetic but to each his own, changing it is the main thing and doing a full change not this adding 3-4 qts into crap fluid. I mean if you were to do this drain and fill like every 10,000 miles or less then OK but 60K and drain 3-4 then add 3-4 just messes up 4 qts of good fluid.

I would pull the radiator, change it, pull the pan and check everything, reinstall the pan and then drain a qt add a qt, drain a qt add a qt until it all come out fresh looking. Or get it back together, put the old crap back in and take 15Qt of good synthetic to a T-Tech place.
 
it makes no sense to do just a drain and fill, that is worthless at best.
Get yourself about 15 qts and take it to a T-Tech machine or do it yourself if you have another person to help it would be much easier


I'm pretty much in agreement. Somewhere around 150k miles I finally just paid the dealership $150 to do a complete trans flush. I've been happy ever since. Still at 220k+ miles and no slippage (knock on wood).
 
Thanks all. I intend on doing a full flush myself not the 3-4 at a time or whatever. It doesn't seem like the latter would do much good with 60,000 on the old stuff. And maybe some clarification would be helpful, my 4runner has 261000 on it and the trans. fluid was done at 201000. Is there any reason I shouldn't use valvoline maxlife dex/merc? It's the only thing I can find that comes in gallons instead of single qts. And when I swap the radiator, how much coolant will it need and should I use the yota coolant or does it matter? Thanks again.
 
While on this. Is it weird that the ATF dipsticks got a dextrin 2 stamp on it haha
So does it take dextrin 2 or 3 can't remember anymore.
 
Haha stupid auto correct on iPhone changed it to dextrin not DEXTRON

Don't believe me? Try it.

Thank though, I gotta do a flush as well.
 
I feel like I may be reading conflicting information. I have read through various threads on here talking about flushing transmissions and that it is a bad idea if it has high mileage. With 261k I'm thinking this would apply to my rig. Is the supposed "bad flush" referring to the power flush or is it a bad idea in general to do this even if I plan on using the trans pump one qt at a time method? I can't imagine leaving dirty old fluid in the trans forever would be a good idea either. I'm also thinking to add a bottle of lubegard black as well, says its for honda and toyota trannies...thoughts?

Thanks again all.
 
I feel like I may be reading conflicting information. I have read through various threads on here talking about flushing transmissions and that it is a bad idea if it has high mileage. With 261k I'm thinking this would apply to my rig. Is the supposed "bad flush" referring to the power flush or is it a bad idea in general to do this even if I plan on using the trans pump one qt at a time method? I can't imagine leaving dirty old fluid in the trans forever would be a good idea either. I'm also thinking to add a bottle of lubegard black as well, says its for honda and toyota trannies...thoughts?

Thanks again all.

I'm pretty sure any sort of a power flush on a high mileage transmission is not a good idea. I am sure of the issue but evidently the power flush can work some things loose that result in poor performance. I've had this confirmed by reputable transmission shops that almost refused to flush an older transmission.

I have heard of more passive approaches to completely drain and fill all at once but they look tricky.

I saw one post recently about how a guy on a Mazda or something was using the cooler lines to do this. Fill up a bucket with new ATF Suck up good ATF with the inlet and drain the old ATF through the outlet into another bucket till it runs clean. Supposedly the 4R transmission does not do this effectively…. I wanna try though!

I'm doing the drain and add style. I used plain old Dexron but decided to upgrade to Maxlife so am doing it again. I had run about 12 qts of new plain old Dexron through a couple months back and when draining last week it looked pretty good. Little cloudy but acceptable. Pushing another 12 qts of Maxlife through will be over kill but such an easy deal it make sup for the expense and perhaps waste…


Since transmissions are unpredictable and expensive I think any non evasive maintanence well worth the efforts.

HTH

Zulch
 
I wouldn't use any transmission additives like Lubeguard. The fluids already have additives in them. Usually additives such as those are meant to cover up issues.

A drain/fill can't hurt anything. If you want to get as much fluid out as you can then you can let the 4Runner sit for a few days. This way, as much fluid as possible can drain into the pan. Considering your fluid was change 60k ago and you aren't have any issues I don't think that changing the fluid will ruin anything. If it makes you feel any better, I've seen 3rd Gens with 250k+ with filthy black fluid and sketchy service history with transmissions functioning with no issues. You should be fine.
 
I feel like I may be reading conflicting information. I have read through various threads on here talking about flushing transmissions and that it is a bad idea if it has high mileage. With 261k I'm thinking this would apply to my rig. Is the supposed "bad flush" referring to the power flush or is it a bad idea in general to do this even if I plan on using the trans pump one qt at a time method? I can't imagine leaving dirty old fluid in the trans forever would be a good idea either. I'm also thinking to add a bottle of lubegard black as well, says its for honda and toyota trannies...thoughts?

Thanks again all.

IMO is a difference between a "flush" and a simple "fluid change".
I am fairly sure or at least my understanding is that a flush consist of either back flushing, running the fluid back in reverse and or also running a solvent through it. There is also I believe a positive pressure that pushes the fluid/solvent through. Frankly I am not sure if there are many places that even do this anymore as it is a pretty outdated method.

A full fluid change is just that, either a T-Tech type machine which uses the transmission cooler lines then just uses the trans own pump at no more pressure than just normal operation.
If you use this type though I would really drop the pan first and fully check it out then replace the fluid.
Or if you can find one really the best method is the "pump inlet flush" type machine, that way they remove the pan anyway and it gives a better replacement of fluid, probably 95% or more, the T-Tech probably 85% or so (just a guess on my part). quite a bit of the fluid in the torque converter remains using this method.
Or you can get someone to help and do the replace a qt at a time method through the cooler lines. Same result, probably 80% is exchanged

I think as long as you get a good solid 85%+ fresh fluid in there without using any solvents or back pressure just the trucks own pump then you should be good to go.
And instead of Lubegard I would just use a quality 100% synthetic fluid.

Here is something I found that seems to explain this a bit.

Transmission Flush, When and when not to flush transmission | MDH MOTORS

Automatic Transmission Flush

If you really want to do it right and use the very best method then go with a proper pump inlet machine fluid change, probably need about 16Qts of fluid and use 100% synthetic ATF like Amsoil or Redline.

Thats probably somewhere in the neighborhood of $200 for fluid then probably somewhere between $100 to $150 for the pump inlet flush.
So $300-$350.
and no reason to change the trans filter because we don't have one, just a simple screen which should look like brand new unless something is seriously wrong with your trans.
 
I wouldn't use any transmission additives like Lubeguard. The fluids already have additives in them. Usually additives such as those are meant to cover up issues.

A drain/fill can't hurt anything. If you want to get as much fluid out as you can then you can let the 4Runner sit for a few days. This way, as much fluid as possible can drain into the pan. Considering your fluid was change 60k ago and you aren't have any issues I don't think that changing the fluid will ruin anything. If it makes you feel any better, I've seen 3rd Gens with 250k+ with filthy black fluid and sketchy service history with transmissions functioning with no issues. You should be fine.

Thanks for the quick responses. My trans does shift with a little jolt but only through 1-2-3. I plan to use this method -> Dropping Pan And Flushing Transmission
Dropping Pan And Flushing Transmission

So I just want to be sure that this is not the "risky" type of flush that people seem to advise against. As for the lubegard, if it doesn't offer any benefits then I'll nix that. It does seem more often then not that "add-inns" are usually a waste and like you said only cover up issues...
 
I bought three gallons of dexIII and every week drained the pan and filled with fresh. I'm about to do it the third time in which I'll also drop the pan.
 
I wouldn't use any transmission additives like Lubeguard. The fluids already have additives in them. Usually additives such as those are meant to cover up issues.

A drain/fill can't hurt anything. If you want to get as much fluid out as you can then you can let the 4Runner sit for a few days. This way, as much fluid as possible can drain into the pan. Considering your fluid was change 60k ago and you aren't have any issues I don't think that changing the fluid will ruin anything. If it makes you feel any better, I've seen 3rd Gens with 250k+ with filthy black fluid and sketchy service history with transmissions functioning with no issues. You should be fine.

I just checked my tranny dip stick.. and it's a black-ish color...

Would you sugguest a drain and fill?:yield:
 
I just checked my tranny dip stick.. and it's a black-ish color...



Would you sugguest a drain and fill?:yield:



Shifting fine? If it is then go ahead. There's never a guarantee but I don't like driving on dirty fluid. Castrol Import Multi Vehicle is what I would recommend.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If there is even any question your fluid is no good, change it, end of story. Fluid is cheap, transmissions are not.

You can go at it two ways:

1. Do a series of drain and fills, I would suggest at least three. You drain out (approximately 4 quarts) and fill back in whatever comes out. Drive it around for 15 minutes or so and repeat two more times. This will leave you with mostly new fluid.

2. Do a full fluid exchange. There is a DIY video that Tim did that will show you how to do it. You essentially removed the tranny return hose and start it up in park. Let it pump out exactly one quart and shut it off. Now put in one quart through the dipstick. Repeat this 12ish times and now all of your fluid is brand new.

After either method, drive it around in the city (stop and go) for at least 20 minutes and check the dipstick while it is running (after cycling through all the gears for a few seconds). It should be at the top of the "hot" mark, if it is not, fill until it is.

Enjoy your new fluid
 
When I first bought my rig, I did several rounds of the "Drain and Refill" method to get my fluid in better shape. The dilution method is effective and certainly anyone can do it. But, when I got my rig, the fluid looked ok and the previous owners had records of replacing the trans fluid at the suggested interval of every 30,000 miles.

After frequenting this forum for a while and others, I learned you can do a DIY flush at home without any special equipment. You start with a drain and refill of what's in the pan. Then, you remove the trans cooler return line off the nipple on the bottom of the radiator, put another hose line onto the nipple and run it into a bucket that you can measure how much you are removing. You start the vehicle, let the trans pump move 1 quart out of the system, stop, add 1 quart into the trans dipstick tube and repeat until your fluid looks good, right around the 12 quart mark.

So, we found a willing guinea pig on the forum and [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I did the flush for him.

Here's the video:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RumPXivBlk8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

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