ANTMAN'S Thread

Antman said:
Started a project for 4RnRGrl- a basic 2 drawer storage box and possibly a slide-out table.

I'm building the box in my 4Runner and it'll transfer into hers when it's done.

We'll see how this plays out!
Click to expand...

I was reading over your 1st and 2nd rev storage system and saw you used 'soft floor' and MDF. Now it looks like you have switched to 3/4"ply.

I have 3rd row LE and will remove my seats and had thought about trying to use a 'soft floor' like 1000D nylon or similar with dynamat or similar under it. Was wondering if you have had any regrets or after thoughts on the soft floor.

Also MDF vs Ply. Do you get any off-gasing from either, or any moisture problems with the MDF long term. I have been trying to think of some means for a skeleton system that is sturdy yet lighter to the point I considered drilling vertical holes through the sidewalls.. Or using 1X stock with sheet panel exterior for framework but obviously would need a solid lid. I suppose that would be unnecessary with the soft floor though .

I too wanted to arrange something that lined up better with my folded 2nd row seats, I don't know if it's because they are leather or what but they don't fold flat by any means. Maybe has something to do with access to 3rd row design. It's definitely not a fold out flat situation.

So just trying to see if you have any regrets/after thoughts on the materials or soft floor.

TB
 
tb-av said:
I was reading over your 1st and 2nd rev storage system and saw you used 'soft floor' and MDF. Now it looks like you have switched to 3/4"ply.

I have 3rd row LE and will remove my seats and had thought about trying to use a 'soft floor' like 1000D nylon or similar with dynamat or similar under it. Was wondering if you have had any regrets or after thoughts on the soft floor.

Also MDF vs Ply. Do you get any off-gasing from either, or any moisture problems with the MDF long term. I have been trying to think of some means for a skeleton system that is sturdy yet lighter to the point I considered drilling vertical holes through the sidewalls.. Or using 1X stock with sheet panel exterior for framework but obviously would need a solid lid. I suppose that would be unnecessary with the soft floor though .

I too wanted to arrange something that lined up better with my folded 2nd row seats, I don't know if it's because they are leather or what but they don't fold flat by any means. Maybe has something to do with access to 3rd row design. It's definitely not a fold out flat situation.

So just trying to see if you have any regrets/after thoughts on the materials or soft floor.

TB
Click to expand...

My 3rd storage box frame (expedition style) is made of ply too. Only real difference I see is the ply doesn't chip as easily as the MDF. As long as you build it properly either material works well.
This box for Corey I want to be strong as hell- we call her Kamikaze Corey for a reason... I'm building everything from 3/4" ply, screwed and glued throughout.
But- to more directly answer your questions- from my experience- use ply for the frame(paint it with bedliner) and carpeted MDF for the lids which will not warp. I still have an open floor design because it gives you more space inside.

---J
 
Antman said:
... we call her Kamikaze Corey for a reason...
Click to expand...

Ha! Sounds like my second wife. She was definitely a do it now, we'll figure how to sort the rest later if need be.

Fantastic thanks.. any special bedliner? I had Rhino liner in my Tacoma and when that stuff got up to about 100deg.. it would give off this really unusual odor... took me forever to figure what it was... but I'm sure this interior will get well over 100 locked up in the summer. That's one of my concerns that the interior ends up smelling like a cross between Harbor Freight and Home Depot. Good advice on the MDF chipping I had not thought of that. I've made speaker cabs of MDF that are screw, glue, bondo,,, but you don't want to beat them up.


TB
 
tb-av said:
ha! Sounds like my second wife. She was definitely a do it now, we'll figure how to sort the rest later if need be.

Fantastic thanks.. Any special bedliner? I had rhino liner in my tacoma and when that stuff got up to about 100deg.. It would give off this really unusual odor... Took me forever to figure what it was... But i'm sure this interior will get well over 100 locked up in the summer. That's one of my concerns that the interior ends up smelling like a cross between harbor freight and home depot. Good advice on the mdf chipping i had not thought of that. I've made speaker cabs of mdf that are screw, glue, bondo,,, but you don't want to beat them up.


Tb
Click to expand...

I love this stuff. All the smells go away after a few days.
bedliner.jpg
 

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So I tried the inside rear hatch release mod during this past weekend. I first tried the Antman's way and yes, you do need to use a diode. I touched the two red wires and it blew a fuse, which runs the overhead lights. Duh! Stupid of me, as if I don't know that already. I put a new fuse in and things are normal again. I don't know if anything else is broken. So far I am still alive and nothing is burning yet.

I don't have a diode, so I tried a different way. The switch under the rear badge has two wires that I traced back to a connector behind the hatch windows/glass. So I thought if I install a switch using those two wires and parallel to the original switch, it should work. So I tapped into those two wires and tested by touching them and it worked. It opened the rear door.

The connector is at the top of the rear hatch right above the rear emblem on the other side of the sheet metal. So I was going to use the Easy Access Panel to install the switch. I ran two wires down to that Panel. I then closed the plastic cover and put everything back, thinking what was left was simply connect the two wires to a switch. Then I rolled down the glass and feeling pretty good then guess what? The glass pulled the wires down and the hole ate my wires! I didn't realize that the wires were too short and they were in the direct track of travel of the glass. So remove the panel, rinse and repeat with longer wires and better wire placement.

Now I then realized I don't have a push button switch. So here is my question to Antman, if he sees this and could answer it. The push button switch does it need to be a momentary action, or push on/push off? If push on/off works, then I have a rocker switch that I can use. I just found out that Radio Shack is no more and there isn't an alternative in my area except the internet.
 
sweaty said:
So I tried the inside rear hatch release mod during this past weekend. I first tried the Antman's way and yes, you do need to use a diode. I touched the two red wires and it blew a fuse, which runs the overhead lights. Duh! Stupid of me, as if I don't know that already. I put a new fuse in and things are normal again. I don't know if anything else is broken. So far I am still alive and nothing is burning yet.

I don't have a diode, so I tried a different way. The switch under the rear badge has two wires that I traced back to a connector behind the hatch windows/glass. So I thought if I install a switch using those two wires and parallel to the original switch, it should work. So I tapped into those two wires and tested by touching them and it worked. It opened the rear door.

The connector is at the top of the rear hatch right above the rear emblem on the other side of the sheet metal. So I was going to use the Easy Access Panel to install the switch. I ran two wires down to that Panel. I then closed the plastic cover and put everything back, thinking what was left was simply connect the two wires to a switch. Then I rolled down the glass and feeling pretty good then guess what? The glass pulled the wires down and the hole ate my wires! I didn't realize that the wires were too short and they were in the direct track of travel of the glass. So remove the panel, rinse and repeat with longer wires and better wire placement.

Now I then realized I don't have a push button switch. So here is my question to Antman, if he sees this and could answer it. The push button switch does it need to be a momentary action, or push on/push off? If push on/off works, then I have a rocker switch that I can use. I just found out that Radio Shack is no more and there isn't an alternative in my area except the internet.
Click to expand...

Must be momentary to function properly.
 
Antman said:
I love this stuff. All the smells go away after a few days.
View attachment 253761
Click to expand...

I've been getting that stuff from autozone, different stores even, and each one the first spray(and never gets better) always comes spattering out all wonky, like something is jacked up with the pickup? I've shaken till my arms hurt and I keep having the same issue. I end up returning it and getting the same brand but "professional" version, which just seems like it's propellant is stronger, and leaves a huge overspray mess!
I want to like that specific one cuz it's cheaper and I like the texture it leaves vs the pro, but I can't get it to dispense properly as of recent
 
FrenchToasty said:
I've been getting that stuff from autozone, different stores even, and each one the first spray(and never gets better) always comes spattering out all wonky, like something is jacked up with the pickup? I've shaken till my arms hurt and I keep having the same issue. I end up returning it and getting the same brand but "professional" version, which just seems like it's propellant is stronger, and leaves a huge overspray mess!
I want to like that specific one cuz it's cheaper and I like the texture it leaves vs the pro, but I can't get it to dispense properly as of recent
Click to expand...

I haven't used the product in question before, but, considering it's rubberized texture is similar to plasti-dip, perhaps warming the can in some hot water before use will will eliminate the spattering. I know it makes a huge difference in the spray pattern and texture when spraying plasti-dip on badges and other parts of the vehicle.
 
I finished Corey's storage box today- thing is a beast to survive Kamikaze Corey and her adventures!
It's a pretty basic box- but I surprised her with a wood burning of her doggie in the slideout table, She loved it! Cool. These pics are in my truck...

Done with this one!













 
Antman said:
I finished Corey's storage box today- thing is a beast to survive Kamikaze Corey and her adventures!
It's a pretty basic box- but I surprised her with a wood burning of her doggie in the slideout table, She loved it! Cool. These pics are in my truck...

Done with this one!
Click to expand...

It's incredible. I could not have imagined it would be this awesome. I'll be indebted forever.

It's amazing. THANK YOU!

:biggrin2:
 
Antman said:
I finished Corey's storage box today- thing is a beast to survive Kamikaze Corey and her adventures!
It's a pretty basic box- but I surprised her with a wood burning of her doggie in the slideout table, She loved it! Cool. These pics are in my truck...

Done with this one!
Click to expand...

Very Nice!
Where do I signup for the paper towel holder and baby wipes? and is it too late to return my ARB drawers?
 
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Looks really nice. So do they stay in place by gravity and fit? Or something else?

Also where do you guys buy these heavy duty drawer slides? I've seen some that look like they have an incredible amount of weight on them.
 
tb-av said:
Looks really nice. So do they stay in place by gravity and fit? Or something else?

Also where do you guys buy these heavy duty drawer slides? I've seen some that look like they have an incredible amount of weight on them.
Click to expand...
It's fastened down by the bolts that used to hold the back seats in, brackets and turnbuckles.
 
Thanks, I wasn't sure if weight alone held them or not. I guess that wouldn't be very safe though now that think about it.

I've got to design something for mine.
 
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