ANTMAN'S Thread

Antman-- looks great, another fantastic post.

Maybe I missed a post somewhere, but didn't you already have a compressor set up in the back for your Airlift? If so, how come you wanted to add another?

You are correct! The compressor in the back would technically be classified as a "hunk o junk". It cost $20 at Target because nobody wanted to buy it :) .

BUT...it works perfectly to air up those bags, they don't take much to inflate.


This one is much nicer- really no comparison between the two!
 
UNDERHOOD LED LIGHTS

Snooperstyle hit a homerun with his underhood LED lights! Great idea!!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/70907-engine-compartment-light-mod.html

I decided it was time to have my own...I used some self adhesive strip-LED's- $22 at Pepboys. These strips are waterproof, flexible, come backed with 3M adhesive, and plenty bright. Total install time, including the switch was 25 minutes...


I could have used a pin-switch, but decided on a lit-rocker because I want to decide when it's on, not every time the hoods up.

Here are some pics to make you guys want to wire up your own. :cool:

Night Pics( It's MUCH brighter in person)

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Rest of the pics...


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Wire Routing...


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That fuse box is almost full!

The hood is grounded, so for the LED's I connected the (-) wire to a ring terminal under a self tapping screw in the hood support structure.



The switch is mounted in the metal radiator support, and grounded there.

I cut the plastic cover a tiny bit smaller than the switch's trim ring and re-installed it over the switch. This way,if I need to take the cover off I'm not dealing with any wires in the way.

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I just bought a whole roll of strip LEDs like that from Amazon, and I tested them to make sure they worked and holy **** are they bright! I plan on doing this mod plus some rock lights this weekend. Looks easy enough with the bulk roll I bought - cut, solder, heat shrink, wire!

EDIT: Also plan on doing the cargo area light mod as well.
 
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I too am planning on using strips for rock lights but looks like I will also steal this as well.

Mr. Ant, Sir - may I humble request the switch part number? Does it light up?
 
AM -

Just installed my engine LED strip and I used a switch similar to the one you've got (except its clear and has two small LEDs to indicate status - red off/green on). So, I wired the circuit and everything works great! I pulled it into the garage where it's a bit darker to take a couple of pictures and noticed that the LED strip was still pulling current and staying dimly lit when in the off position. Do you have that issue?

Since you have the switch wired to illuminate when the lights are on, I assume you hooked the third terminal to a negative source, correct? What I did was jump the hot wire from the power source to the third terminal for LEDs on the switch since mine has an indicator for both on and off. But, it seems the switch is still allowing current to pass. If I remove the third terminal connection then everything operates correctly and the lights shut-off completely. Do I need a resistor in the circuit if I want the lights completely off while having the LED status indicator, or am I all effed-up?

EDIT: Did some research and it turns-out the switch I bought at Radio Shack has been recalled before for faulty wiring instructions. The instructions on the back of this thing have it switching the ground, not the positive which is why I'm trying to figure out WTF is going on. I think I'm just going to use a different switch!
 
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^^^ I UPDATED THE POST WITH CRAPPY NIGHT PICTURES!!!:trophy:


Mr. Ant, Sir - may I humble request the switch part number? Does it light up?

Ya know, I've had that switch so long I can't remember where I got it- I used it for my 12v Outlet Mod first time around. It does light up...

Maybe Baynesville Electronics?

AM -

Just installed my engine LED strip and I used a switch similar to the one you've got (except its clear and has two small LEDs to indicate status - red off/green on). So, I wired the circuit and everything works great! I pulled it into the garage where it's a bit darker to take a couple of pictures and noticed that the LED strip was still pulling current and staying dimly lit when in the off position. Do you have that issue?

Since you have the switch wired to illuminate when the lights are on, I assume you hooked the third terminal to a negative source, correct? What I did was jump the hot wire from the power source to the third terminal for LEDs on the switch since mine has an indicator for both on and off. But, it seems the switch is still allowing current to pass. If I remove the third terminal connection then everything operates correctly and the lights shut-off completely. Do I need a resistor in the circuit if I want the lights completely off while having the LED status indicator, or am I all effed-up?

EDIT: Did some research and it turns-out the switch I bought at Radio Shack has been recalled before for faulty wiring instructions. The instructions on the back of this thing have it switching the ground, not the positive which is why I'm trying to figure out WTF is going on. I think I'm just going to use a different switch!


Sounds like you figured it out! Get a new switch- how about some pics of your install? :)
 
Sounds like you figured it out! Get a new switch- how about some pics of your install? :)

Sure thing!

I used these LEDs from Amazon: LEDwholesalers 16.4 Feet 300 SMD LED Flexible Strip with Waterproof Sleeve

They're pretty easy to cut and solder-up, and the 3M adhesive on the back seems to work pretty well (so far).

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This is the stupid switch I was dealing with. I just unhooked the status LED for now until I get a new switch. I tried a bunch of different configurations and even blew a fuse trying to figure this stupid thing out. In the end I decided I didn't really need the status indicator anyway since I'd remember where the switch was in complete darkness and I'd be able to see if the lights are on since the switch is directly below them! :cool:
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You may have also noticed that I no longer have my aux fuse box mounted on the air intake box. Your ghetto comment really hurt my feelings. So, I decided on a hybrid approach between your install and Titanpat57's install. I just need to clean-up the routing a bit. :art:

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Freinds won't let friends go ghetto.;):

Ah hell, we have cutting boards under our hoods, so whatever.

Lookin good! I like the fact that you have one long strip- much cleaner look.
 
UNDERHOOD COMPRESSOR UPDATE (HEATSHIELD INSTALLATION)


My onboard compressor has been getting some use lately! Definitely more than I thought I would use it.

I aired up all my tires, and my wife's minivan right after installation and it worked great.

Later in the week, the temperature was over 90', and I went to the storage facility to work on my camper. All 4 tires were hovering right around 30 psi- they should be 50psi. Out came the air-hose. When I was finishing the second tire, the compressor shut down. I checked the fuses, but everything was perfect. Then I realized the truck was running with the A/C on ( I had others in the car waiting) and the compressor is just about a foot or so from the exhaust manifold. It was crazy hot under there!

After about 10 minutes, the compressor was working again, no problems. I suspected a thermal fuse. After reading the instructions (who does that?) I realized I was correct. The compressor will shut itself down to prevent damage if it gets too hot. That's a good thing, but I figured I could minimize the direct heat from the exhaust manifold with a heat shield.

I'm not sure if this will make a difference, but I'll give it a test the next hot day we get!

Anyway, here it is, just a simple piece. Made it out of some sheet aluminum with some crinkle-finish black paint. It's held in place with a sheet-metal screw through an existing hole above the firewall, and the bottom rests on the big rubber grommet. The front of the shield wedges against the compressor mounting bolt. I'm a big fan of the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) method, and this mount is simple and secure enough to do the job. I made sure to leave enought room to easily remove the airbox cover, and to reach the power switch and fuse.

Pics:

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Thank you Wendy....

You are a continuing source of inspiration....:lmao:

Thanks for doing most the leg work on these mods...it makes my life a hell of a lot easier...

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Thank you Wendy....

You are a continuing source of inspiration....:lmao:

Thanks for doing most the leg work on these mods...it makes my life a hell of a lot easier...

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I can see this becoming who can have the biggest and brightest light set up under their hood :bravo:
 
I can see this becoming who can have the biggest and brightest light set up under their hood :bravo:

Awesome seeing all these engine compartment LED mods!

My engine compartment LED mod may not be the brightest, but I still have the brightest rear cargo area of any vehicle on earth...just sayin'...!

Perhaps a moderator could take some of these ideas and put them into the Engine compartment light mod thread that is in the modification stickies??? Would be helpful for others who may not be addicted to Antman's thread!
 
Huh? The man has a cutting board under the hood! Mods like that are more addicting than crack. :boink:

Oh, I didn't mean that I was not addicted, or that nobody else was! My bad!

I have a household door jam I used for my trailer hitch relocation, so I get the cutting board thing...:lol:
 

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