ANTMAN'S Thread

Saker said:
[MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION],


Did you notice what # was on the back of your badge?
Each badge has one.
Since you ordered so quickly, you may have #2 badge.

Guess who is receiving the #1 badge? :moon::hiding:
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I got lucky #7! :thumb:
 
Antman- with your DPDT switch, Auto turns on the solenoid under keyed power, and Manual turns on the solenoid with power directly from the Aux battery, and lets you jump across the solenoid??? Is that right?
The Manual doesn't somehow bypass the solenoid via a relay or anything, correct? I searched through the 80+ pages and didn't find that part. Thanks!
 
The first time in any forum anywhere where I killed a 80+ page thread with my very first post! LOL
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Got lucky number 13?
df4e8d28e3db33fa7ccd1edfe3dd78a0.jpg
 
K9to5 said:
Antman- with your DPDT switch, Auto turns on the solenoid under keyed power, and Manual turns on the solenoid with power directly from the Aux battery, and lets you jump across the solenoid??? Is that right?
Click to expand...

Yes this is correct. It's a very simple concept that for some reason is difficult to get your head around at first. I had the same issue understanding it!

Pm me if you want more details!
 
I didn't see it mentioned anywhere, so hopefully not too stupid of a question - but did you have to completely remove your XREAS when you installed the Bilstein suspension?
 
CraigRoberts said:
I didn't see it mentioned anywhere, so hopefully not too stupid of a question - but did you have to completely remove your XREAS when you installed the Bilstein suspension?
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Since he started with an SR5, I'd say no. But you would have to take it out for anything other than spacers.

My xreas shocks are out but they left the lines on. I should probably take those out at some point.
 
DannyLlama said:
Should I just forward him all of our PMs lol
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I was just unsure if what he called "Manual" was to trigger a relay that bypassed the solenoid altogether via a separate relay for jumping, or it was to power the solenoid and jump through it. Once I caught that the relay was high amperage, it made more sense. I just needed confirmation of my thought. I'm sure there's a few other ways to pull it off. :cheers:
 
Jhalko said:
Since he started with an SR5, I'd say no. But you would have to take it out for anything other than spacers.

My xreas shocks are out but they left the lines on. I should probably take those out at some point.
Click to expand...


Ah, thank you! For some reason I thought he had an LE.
 
Couple of pics from my quick camping trip with Titanpat and the first "real" camping trip with my 7 yr old!

I tried out my new ARB awning-room for the first time. Awesome, quick setup and tear down- about 10 minutes each. The room has a floor and its own roof. It also has a zippered door that lines up perfectly with the rear door on the truck, a side door and 2 windows that are screened, 2 screened ventilation windows and a zippered power port. Typical excellent ARB quality!



Pat's new setup is, well, awesome as usual. He ditched the "boom-boom room for a Foxwing awning. You should see the looks he gets from the other campers. Everyone stops to talk about it!

Enjoy the pics!





























 
Man I miss Bubs...

I said goodbye to her favorite rock this morning for her...sure was sad...

Thanks for coming, I had a great time! ( I got blasted by a storm right after you texted me...holy fballs did rain and blow...stayed together though (whew)

Love ya man..you're the shit
 
If you made a kit for this I'd buy it. I need this!!!. Would be cool to make a small harness that could plug in between the existing wiring. Any specs on the diode or a wiring schematic like some of your other mods. Outstanding work! But I'm hesitant to hack up my wiring.

Antman said:
INSIDE REAR HATCH RELEASE BUTTON


For those of you that sometimes sleep in the back of your truck, this is a useful little mod. Sometimes I sleep back there. I always have the child-locks for the rear doors "on", so the only way for me to get out is to climb over and into the front seats- what a PITA. This little switch fixes all that!


View attachment 105247



To prevent the switch from being accidentally triggered, I mounted it behind a 3/4" access hole. Just to make things easy to get to, I mounted the switch on the hatch (not somewhere in the cargo area which is another option) behind an easy access cover.




View attachment 105249






First you will need a push button, normally open switch; [open]/closed. This switch will send a +12V pulse to release the latch.


This is the plug that powers the hatch release. You need to access the red wire. I tapped into the side closest to the latch and used a diode to prevent the power from traveling back into the door release ECU. Not sure if I needed to use that, but better safe than sorry. The tap from this wire will connect to a terminal on the switch (either one).



View attachment 105250

View attachment 105251






The other terminal on the switch needs a constant +12v signal. I tapped into the red wire from the rear hatch light plug- here...



View attachment 105252












Here is the switch mounted to a thick piece of aluminum. I painted the mounting screws with liquid electrical tape to keep them tight.




View attachment 105253


View attachment 105254




This shows how far the button is recessed to prevent accidental opening. Just enough room to get your finger in there!



View attachment 105255

View attachment 105247








Works great!!


Merry Modding friends!
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