Any Advice for Test Drive?

814runner

814runner

New member
Driving 4 Hours to look at a 2000 Limited with 108k on it tomorrow and just wondering if anyone has any tips for me. I've read the buyers guide and done a lot of research (lurking the forums for a while now) i'm just trying to be as prepared as humanly possible to determine if this is a good purchase or not.

mainly what i'm looking for is some clear things to do on the road test that would indicate typical 4runner problems. I will obviously be checking the 4wd and all the electronics but maybe if anyone has some go do moves on the test drive that could weed out some problems that would be handy.

It will be daily driven and also i plan on doing some modifications to it for mild off roading and overland camping.

cmBJ8BY.jpg


It does have the E-locker and has had the wp/tb done at 90k. as far as pink milkshake i have no idea and i'm also not sure the level of rust if any underneath.

I won't flood with all the pictures but it looks to be in great shape. no tears in the leather and very clean with as far as i can tell all the options available.


any help or tips/tricks would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Frame integrity

It's all about the frame - have a mechanic check it. I usually have the seller meet me at Monro.

Other than that...

Rear axle seals
Valve cover gaskets
Make sure it has the black master key and not just the grey valet key
AC controls
 
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azcat90 said:
It's all about the frame - have a mechanic check it. I usually have the seller meet me at Monro.

Other than that...

Rear axle seals
Valve cover gaskets
Make sure it has the black master key and not just the grey valet key
AC controls
Click to expand...

Yeah unfortunately I don't know any mechanics in the area i'm traveling to. I never though about calling ahead to a monro or something similar and asking someone to check it out for me. Thanks man.
 
Also steering rack - make sure it isn't shot... and the frame usually fails first where rear lower control arm attaches.
 
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azcat90 said:
Also steering rack - make sure it isn't shot... and the frame usually fails first where rear lower control arm attaches.
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Got a hold of a Monro thats about 10 minutes away from where the truck is. they said they can take a look at it with me.

Thanks for the heads up azcat90

Really hoping this thing is in good shape.
 
814runner said:
Yeah unfortunately I don't know any mechanics in the area i'm traveling to. I never though about calling ahead to a monro or something similar and asking someone to check it out for me. Thanks man.
Click to expand...

Screw having a mechanic check it. Check it for yourself! Don't trust anyone when it comes to checking the frame of a car that YOU'RE going to drive, not them. Crawl under it and look around the rear LCA mounting points on the frame. This is the area that's going to rust more than any. On the passenger side the most. Follow the frame from the mounting point up towards the engine compartment as well. Hell, bring a screwdriver and poke at it. Mine looked fine when I bought it, and I had what look like a hole the size of a center punch. Had it check out by a local place, and they only pointed out the small hole I already saw. Once I started poking at it the hole got bigger, and bigger. This is something you can check on your own.

Check the coolant, and the AT fluid too!
 
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azcat90 said:
Monro always lets me walk under the vehicle while its up on the lift.
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Point being, you don't need it be on a lift to inspect the frame or anything else for that matter. Save the money, and look for yourself. I can run down the entire list of things they're going to check, and I'm about 110% sure you can see all of the same things from the ground.

But hey, it's not my money or car that I might be driving.
 
MStudt said:
Point being, you don't need it be on a lift to inspect the frame or anything else for that matter. Save the money, and look for yourself. I can run down the entire list of things they're going to check, and I'm about 110% sure you can see all of the same things from the ground.

But hey, it's not my money or car that I might be driving.
Click to expand...

Suit yourself - I think it is $30 well spent. I can't pull the wheels and check the drum brakes.
 
1. Put ignition key in glove box and lock the glovebox. Also put it in the rear tailgate lock and turn to the left and right to make the rear window go up and down. If the key doesn't do these things it is a valet key, and to make any more key copies, you'll have to reprogram the ECU at Toyota- $300

2. Check for frame rust just in the place previously mentioned. This is VERY important.

3. Look in coolant reservoir bottle for anything oily. Also, check to see if the radiator has been replaced. Both signs of a pink milkshake.

4. Work the digital climate control. Make sure it responds correctly to your button presses including the AUTO function which should vary the speed of the fan as the TEMP knob is turned. If there's an issue here, I can help you.

5. Should idle around 6-700 rpms when warmed up.

6. Should make a different fan noise for about the 1st 20 seconds of starting cold. This is the sign of a good fan clutch.

7. Take it on the highway and get on it. Make sure it drops into OD. Feel for vibrations at different speeds. Brake heavily and feel for brake pedal pulsation.

8. Cold A/C

9. Take it off road or at least on some loose gravel and put it into all the 4WD functions. Make sure the 4WD doesn't stay blinking.

10. Use the Elocker. In 4WD Low. Make sure the ABS light comes on. Obviously make sure you are able to disengage from all the 4WD modes.

If I think of more I'll repost
 
JRZEE2000TR4LTD said:
If I think of more I'll repost
Click to expand...

11. Flip up the rear passenger seat to make sure the jack is there. Nothing worse than getting a flat to find out you have no jack.

12. Check the LBJ's by eye. If the boots are cracked or grease is coming out. Plan on getting new ones. If you plan on lifting it then get new ones anyways.
 
There are a lot of good suggestions here, but honestly the biggest thing I'd be worried about (after frame rot) is making sure the mileage is legit, and then look for accident repairs.

A 4Runner with actual mileage that low isn't likely to have any major mechanical issues that weren't caused by a bad repair. If the frame is solid, there's no accident history, and no evidence of repair, everything else that's wrong with it will be pretty minor.
 
jeremyc74 said:
There are a lot of good suggestions here, but honestly the biggest thing I'd be worried about (after frame rot) is making sure the mileage is legit, and then look for accident repairs.

A 4Runner with actual mileage that low isn't likely to have any major mechanical issues that weren't caused by a bad repair. If the frame is solid, there's no accident history, and no evidence of repair, everything else that's wrong with it will be pretty minor.
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i have the carfax for it and it looks like the everything milage wise checks out. not sure how else to check for something like that.

only shows 2 minor accidents and one of them with a work order where they did around $500 of body work and parts together. so i can't imagine that was anything major. The carfax also states that there was never a reconstructed title or any MAJOR accidents.
 
814runner said:
i have the carfax for it and it looks like the everything milage wise checks out. not sure how else to check for something like that.

only shows 2 minor accidents and one of them with a work order where they did around $500 of body work and parts together. so i can't imagine that was anything major. The carfax also states that there was never a reconstructed title or any MAJOR accidents.
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How many states has it been titled in, and which ones?


You want to be careful of a vehicle that's had the title "washed" by going through multiple states. Post the text of the Carfax if you can.

I would look very carefully to see where paint work has been done. Some of the guys here that know more about bodywork can probably offer better suggestions, but look for tape lines and paint mismatches. Look for trim pieces that look better than they should, because they've been replaced. Check the finder liners and undercarriage for overspray. Look at the panel gaps to make sure they're even.

A 4Runner (or any 15 year old vehicle) with mileage this low is a little unusual. Because of that you want to be suspicious of why it's that way. It's entirely possible it was used as a weekend vehicle to tow a boat, or owned by an old guy who drove into town twice a week, but it's also possible it was wrecked and tied up for years in an insurance dispute, or something like that.

I hope it's legit and you get a good truck, but if you're buying something with an accident history you want to be sure how serious it was, and make sure that's priced into the transaction in case you want to resell it. :police:
 
jeremyc74 said:
How many states has it been titled in, and which ones?


You want to be careful of a vehicle that's had the title "washed" by going through multiple states. Post the text of the Carfax if you can.

I would look very carefully to see where paint work has been done. Some of the guys here that know more about bodywork can probably offer better suggestions, but look for tape lines and paint mismatches. Look for trim pieces that look better than they should, because they've been replaced. Check the finder liners and undercarriage for overspray. Look at the panel gaps to make sure they're even.

A 4Runner (or any 15 year old vehicle) with mileage this low is a little unusual. Because of that you want to be suspicious of why it's that way. It's entirely possible it was used as a weekend vehicle to tow a boat, or owned by an old guy who drove into town twice a week, but it's also possible it was wrecked and tied up for years in an insurance dispute, or something like that.

I hope it's legit and you get a good truck, but if you're buying something with an accident history you want to be sure how serious it was, and make sure that's priced into the transaction in case you want to resell it. :police:
Click to expand...

All good suggestions, but I just want to add that some cars just have low miles. My mom's 05 4Runner has 78k right now, by the time it's as old as the one OP is looking at it will have probably a little over 100k. I've got a 28 year old car with 91k miles. Some people don't drive much, and it seems like a lot of times those cars are cars owned by women. I guess their husband or so drives them around when they go places, or they take his vehicle on trips and what not and therefore the miles stay off their wives vehicle.

Good luck with the truck OP, hopefully it all works out!
 
Unner said:
All good suggestions, but I just want to add that some cars just have low miles.
Click to expand...

Oh no doubt about that! But, if I'm shopping I'll give them a little extra scrutiny, especially if there's accident history and they've changed hands several times. A low mileage vehicle with one or two owners is much more believable than one with three or four because chances are one of those owners is going to put some miles on it. I hope it works out. I'd love to have a 3rd Gen with 100k on it.
 
jeremyc74 said:
How many states has it been titled in, and which ones?


You want to be careful of a vehicle that's had the title "washed" by going through multiple states. Post the text of the Carfax if you can.

I would look very carefully to see where paint work has been done. Some of the guys here that know more about bodywork can probably offer better suggestions, but look for tape lines and paint mismatches. Look for trim pieces that look better than they should, because they've been replaced. Check the finder liners and undercarriage for overspray. Look at the panel gaps to make sure they're even.

A 4Runner (or any 15 year old vehicle) with mileage this low is a little unusual. Because of that you want to be suspicious of why it's that way. It's entirely possible it was used as a weekend vehicle to tow a boat, or owned by an old guy who drove into town twice a week, but it's also possible it was wrecked and tied up for years in an insurance dispute, or something like that.

I hope it's legit and you get a good truck, but if you're buying something with an accident history you want to be sure how serious it was, and make sure that's priced into the transaction in case you want to resell it. :police:
Click to expand...

It has only been titles in PA and Ohio(where it is currently) doesn't look like any gaps in the history of the vehicle. last owner had it for 5 years and some change and the original owner for 9 years and some change.

whats the best way to post a car fax on this site.. new to this forum.
 
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