Any Issues Not Using 4Runner for 1 month.
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djchris713
New member
if at all possible, have someone start it up everyday or at least once a week so the oil won't settle. and leave a little bit of gas in the truck, so just in case someone were to steal it, they wouldnt have much to go on with a low gas tank
G.I.G.
New member
I wouldn't worry about too much only being gone one month. If you were to be gone much longer, I would suggest having someone start it or even drive it if possible.
The only thing I would do for being gone a month is to add some fuel stabilizer at the last fill up before you leave and make sure you drive it a bit before you park it so the stabilizer works it's way through the whole fuel system.
The only thing I would do for being gone a month is to add some fuel stabilizer at the last fill up before you leave and make sure you drive it a bit before you park it so the stabilizer works it's way through the whole fuel system.
eskimochaos
Banned
daily startups are a bit much.
It will be fine, dont get cheap gas before you leave and put in stabilizer. If you can get ethanol free gas then your completely fine doing nothing.
ABooker
Member
Yes, you need to have me take it for a run every day. I'll feed it and give it a rub down after each fishing trip.
No...seriously, it will not hurt it at all to let it sit. If the battery is good and it's parked in side, even the volcano will not hurt it. Just enjoy your trip!
Have fun!:driving:
No...seriously, it will not hurt it at all to let it sit. If the battery is good and it's parked in side, even the volcano will not hurt it. Just enjoy your trip!
Have fun!:driving:
charlier180
New member
With all due respect, starting the 4Runner up every day and not letting it get to it's normal operating temperature will actually due more harm than good.
For example the exhaust will not dry out and that will promote exhaust system condensation & rusting.
My 4Runner sits outdoors sometimes for a month or two without being run.
#1 thing I try to do is keep the fuel tank as FULL as possible. That prevents water condensation in the tank and fuel system problems. Because my 4Runner sits like it does I also put it's battery on a "Battery Tender" charger. This charger "intelligently" charges the battery and maintains it's charge as opposed to "trickle chargers" which are not nearly as good. FYI, I still am using the original battery that came with my 4Runner. Finally, to prevent interior damage from sun snd heat buildup I used a windshield sun visor on ALL the windows (held on with suction cups). That keeps the interior of the 4Runner 30-40 degrees COOLER on warm summer days.
I would also recommend that you not set the parking brake on your 4Runner if it is parked on a LEVEL surface. Setting the parking brake for a month will most likely cause it to stick. Put the transmisison in park and use wheel chocks if necessary.
Personally, if you fill the fuel tank before leaving I see absolutely no reason to add a fuel stabilizer to the tank for such a short period.
I do use fuel stabilizer in my antique and classic vehicles. Difference being it can take me a year to go through a tank of gas in each of them.
When you get back after the month of being away you might consider changing the oil (before starting the 4Runner for the 1st time) if it is about time to do so anyway. Having sat for a month most of the oil will have run down into the oil pan. Changing the oil will lubricate the engine before starting it.
Have a safe trip.
peter78
Super Moderator
My parents have a place in Florida for 6 months and one here in GA for 6 months. There are things you can do to store a car. I also use this list for my Dad's boat which gets stored every 6 months.
One interesting thing to do, is to fill the fuel tank and I would do that in your case. I also use stabilzer in the car and in my boats, pressure washer and anything else that can sit around for awhile, but that is usually more than 1 month.
Anyway, I get pressure of the wheels when I leave a car for 6 months. Here is a list of things that I got off the internet and I find this list helpful:
1.) Change the oil and filter. If the car is being stored for an extended period of time, measured in years, talk to a mechanic about using oils without additives, which may include slightly caustic detergents.
2.) Fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel. Condensation in the tank is a problem in stored vehicles, and it is widely suggested that you fill the tank completely in order to avoid any empty space where water can accumulate. However, the gasoline additives can become "sticky" over time, so it is useful to add a gasoline stabilizer, which is available for lawn mowers and other seasonal yard equipment.
3.) Make sure coolant levels are proper. Inflate the tires to proper pressure. If you are storing for the winter in a cold climate, check the manual for proper pressures.
4.) Clean and wax the car. Be sure to wash under the car to remove any dirt, especially from the the wheel wells. Clean the interior extensively, being especially vigilant about all food scraps and particles; these can attract small animals. Removing the carpets for heated indoor storage will prevent them from becoming musty. Do not use Armor All or similar products; these contain water, which may become trapped inside the car.
5.) Consider placing a sheet of vapor barrier plastic under the car on the floor if being stored indoors. This will prevent water vapor buildup in an unheated garage, and also makes it very easy to spot fluid leaks when the car is removed from storage.
6.) Open a window slightly if stored indoors, but not enough to allow small animals inside. Put the top up if it's a convertible. Stuff a rag into the air intake and exhaust to prevent animals from nesting, covering this with a metal screen (1/4 inch square screen is useful here). Some suggest using strong-smelling chemicals like soap or mothballs to keep animals away, but these can leave a smell in the car.
7.) If the car will be stored for more than a month, a battery maintainer should be used. These are basically "smart" battery chargers that only turn on periodically. For short times, a few months, the maintainer can be attached to the battery while still in the car. For extended periods, if you are comfortable with basic mechanics, removing the battery and attaching the maintainer to it outside the car is a advisable. If you choose to do this, be sure to contact the car's manufacturer to ensure that this will not confuse the onboard computers, and that you have written down any needed access codes for devices such as the stereo or alarm.
8.) Place a piece of paper on the windshield under the wiper blades, to prevent the rubber from sticking to the glass. Better yet, remove the blades completely and store them in a warm place (perhaps beside the battery and carpets). If you remove the blades, be sure to pad the ends of the wiper arms, which can scratch the glass if inadvertently turned on.
9.) If you are comfortable with basic mechanics, remove the spark plugs and spray a small amount of oil into the cylinders to prevent rusting, then insert the plugs again. Special "fogging oil" is available for storing boats, and will work well here. Use of a spark plug anti-seize lubricant on the threads is always advisable.
10.) If the car will be stored for extended periods of time, it is advisable to jack it up on axle stands to avoid flat spots in the tires. "Extended" in this case depends on the type of tires; bias-ply tires need to be jacked up sooner than radials, and high-profile sooner than low-profile. A "classic" car with fat bias-ply tires should be jacked up if stored for more than a month, a modern sports car with low-profile radials should be fine for a winter.
Release the parking brake. If the brake is left on the brake pads can stick to the rotors. Place chocks under the tires to prevent movement, this is even more effective than the brake anyway.
11.) Place a note to yourself on the steering wheel outlining which optional steps above you carried out (rag in exhaust, rag in intake, carpets removed, battery removed, etc). When returning to the car in the spring, ensure all of these steps are reversed, checking them off as you go down the list. The list should contain every item separately; "rags in openings" may lead to one being left behind.
12.) Lock the doors. It will help in case someone tries to steal something from you or your car.
A car cover should only be used for outdoor storage, or in very dusty locations. Leaving the car "open" indoors allows water vapor to leave the car after humid weather.
Tips If you must use a cover, typically only for outdoor storage or very dusty locations, use a cover that is ventilated and allows water vapor to escape. Wicking materials, similar to those used on sporting "technical wear", is widely used in high-end covers.
It is not uncommon for the brake rotors to develop surface rust during storage. This can be removed by wiping with a heavy rag; an old t-shirt will not suffice, something with a heavy fabric with a rough surface is needed.
One interesting thing to do, is to fill the fuel tank and I would do that in your case. I also use stabilzer in the car and in my boats, pressure washer and anything else that can sit around for awhile, but that is usually more than 1 month.
Anyway, I get pressure of the wheels when I leave a car for 6 months. Here is a list of things that I got off the internet and I find this list helpful:
1.) Change the oil and filter. If the car is being stored for an extended period of time, measured in years, talk to a mechanic about using oils without additives, which may include slightly caustic detergents.
2.) Fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel. Condensation in the tank is a problem in stored vehicles, and it is widely suggested that you fill the tank completely in order to avoid any empty space where water can accumulate. However, the gasoline additives can become "sticky" over time, so it is useful to add a gasoline stabilizer, which is available for lawn mowers and other seasonal yard equipment.
3.) Make sure coolant levels are proper. Inflate the tires to proper pressure. If you are storing for the winter in a cold climate, check the manual for proper pressures.
4.) Clean and wax the car. Be sure to wash under the car to remove any dirt, especially from the the wheel wells. Clean the interior extensively, being especially vigilant about all food scraps and particles; these can attract small animals. Removing the carpets for heated indoor storage will prevent them from becoming musty. Do not use Armor All or similar products; these contain water, which may become trapped inside the car.
5.) Consider placing a sheet of vapor barrier plastic under the car on the floor if being stored indoors. This will prevent water vapor buildup in an unheated garage, and also makes it very easy to spot fluid leaks when the car is removed from storage.
6.) Open a window slightly if stored indoors, but not enough to allow small animals inside. Put the top up if it's a convertible. Stuff a rag into the air intake and exhaust to prevent animals from nesting, covering this with a metal screen (1/4 inch square screen is useful here). Some suggest using strong-smelling chemicals like soap or mothballs to keep animals away, but these can leave a smell in the car.
7.) If the car will be stored for more than a month, a battery maintainer should be used. These are basically "smart" battery chargers that only turn on periodically. For short times, a few months, the maintainer can be attached to the battery while still in the car. For extended periods, if you are comfortable with basic mechanics, removing the battery and attaching the maintainer to it outside the car is a advisable. If you choose to do this, be sure to contact the car's manufacturer to ensure that this will not confuse the onboard computers, and that you have written down any needed access codes for devices such as the stereo or alarm.
8.) Place a piece of paper on the windshield under the wiper blades, to prevent the rubber from sticking to the glass. Better yet, remove the blades completely and store them in a warm place (perhaps beside the battery and carpets). If you remove the blades, be sure to pad the ends of the wiper arms, which can scratch the glass if inadvertently turned on.
9.) If you are comfortable with basic mechanics, remove the spark plugs and spray a small amount of oil into the cylinders to prevent rusting, then insert the plugs again. Special "fogging oil" is available for storing boats, and will work well here. Use of a spark plug anti-seize lubricant on the threads is always advisable.
10.) If the car will be stored for extended periods of time, it is advisable to jack it up on axle stands to avoid flat spots in the tires. "Extended" in this case depends on the type of tires; bias-ply tires need to be jacked up sooner than radials, and high-profile sooner than low-profile. A "classic" car with fat bias-ply tires should be jacked up if stored for more than a month, a modern sports car with low-profile radials should be fine for a winter.
Release the parking brake. If the brake is left on the brake pads can stick to the rotors. Place chocks under the tires to prevent movement, this is even more effective than the brake anyway.
11.) Place a note to yourself on the steering wheel outlining which optional steps above you carried out (rag in exhaust, rag in intake, carpets removed, battery removed, etc). When returning to the car in the spring, ensure all of these steps are reversed, checking them off as you go down the list. The list should contain every item separately; "rags in openings" may lead to one being left behind.
12.) Lock the doors. It will help in case someone tries to steal something from you or your car.
A car cover should only be used for outdoor storage, or in very dusty locations. Leaving the car "open" indoors allows water vapor to leave the car after humid weather.
Tips If you must use a cover, typically only for outdoor storage or very dusty locations, use a cover that is ventilated and allows water vapor to escape. Wicking materials, similar to those used on sporting "technical wear", is widely used in high-end covers.
It is not uncommon for the brake rotors to develop surface rust during storage. This can be removed by wiping with a heavy rag; an old t-shirt will not suffice, something with a heavy fabric with a rough surface is needed.
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SpaceNeedle
Banned
one month is nothing.
maybe consider parking your tires on a soft surface so when you come back to the drive it the tires don't thump too badly.
maybe consider parking your tires on a soft surface so when you come back to the drive it the tires don't thump too badly.
NCSCOTT
New member
Your Tires may flat spot in a month, but after about a 100 miles of driving they should round out again, if you even notice it at all. FILL the tank, Do not leave it empty or low. The temp changes with an empty tank may cause condensation in the tank, hense water in the fuel. Fuel stablizer is fine to use but a fresh tank of fuel should be fine for 1-3 months.
The oil settling thing is a little out there. If your worried about that change the oil right before you store it. Not much to "settle" then???? Your oil settles every night when you park it anyway. :bash:
All those things noted by peter are great if you have time/money to do them all.
I've left my 04 for 2-3 weeks at a time and never added anything to the fuel, oil ect... never washed it, hell even with a partial tank for fuel. I have almost 98K miles now and it has started every time. Never a problem!!:cheers:
Go have a good time on your trip and don't worry about it.
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