Any tranmission experts out there?

Jbird2200

New member
Hello all, long time lurker here, first time poster. First and foremost, this site is a wealth of knowledge and information for our beloved 4runners, and I'm slightly ashamed that my first post here is one asking for some assistance.

I've searched long and hard and can not come up with another post that resembles what I'm experiencing in my 4runner.

1998 SR5 4wd V6 Automatic, approximately 155k miles. Bought over a year ago with 142k miles. Service history unknown.

The Problem:
When driving at cruising speed (anything over 50mph) if the transmission is subject to a load while in OD and then drops into 3rd gear, upon shifting BACK into OD, there is a almost shudder/slip/hesitation in the shift. I can replicate it almost every time, and it is enough to cause a slight jerking of the vehicle...which feels like it's coming from the transmission. If I keep my foot in the gas, it will drop back down to D and accelerate normally, and shift into OD normally if I keep my foot in it....it only does the shudder/hesitation if I'm gradually applying the gas and shifting into OD. Otherwise, the truck shifts through all other gears perfectly fine, regardless of the load.

Fluid levels looked fine when checked via the dipstick. I have pulled the pan and the fluid looks nice and bright, red as can be. There is no foul order from the fluid. No unreasonable amount of buildup in the pan, magnets have the typical amount of goo with a thin murky film of very fine metal, but nothing different than anything else I've seen in other pans from a vehicle with some age/use such as this one. I am in the process of cleaning old permatex residue off of the pan now, and refilling after cleaning the filter. I'm hoping the addition of some new fluid may help, but I am not holding my breath that it will be that simple.

SO....my thoughts if simply changing out fluids doesn't solve my issue are...clutch packs going bad (how common is this?), or maybe a solenoid (is there a diagnostic approach to checking this?)....and hopefully, any other ideas that may prevent a rebuild/replacement in the near future.

Thanks in advance for the responses....this is our current "family" vehicle, and it's pretty tough having it out of commission.
 
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I believe there is a solenoid for O/D. If it's an electrical issue, it should give you a check-engine light with a code (you'd need a code reader). If it's mechanical, there really is no way to know until you replace the solenoid. Do that now while the pan is off, if possible. You can get the solenoid "kit" for less than $200.

Other possibility - torque converter lock-up mechanism. Having a transmission guy drive the vehicle should be able to determine this. Otherwise, there's not much you can do as a DIY'er in this situation...especially if the fluid is in good condition and it's not telling you anything.
 
I believe there is a solenoid for O/D. If it's an electrical issue, it should give you a check-engine light with a code (you'd need a code reader). If it's mechanical, there really is no way to know until you replace the solenoid. Do that now while the pan is off, if possible. You can get the solenoid "kit" for less than $200.

Other possibility - torque converter lock-up mechanism. Having a transmission guy drive the vehicle should be able to determine this. Otherwise, there's not much you can do as a DIY'er in this situation...especially if the fluid is in good condition and it's not telling you anything.

Thanks for the response. So you're saying its possible for the solenoid to be bad, but NOT throw a code/check engine light to be on? Is it possible to have a code via a code reader but the check light not be on on the dash? (It isn't by the way).

Thanks
 
Also, I'm having a hard time finding the solenoid kits? Do I need to go through Toyota to get them?

Edit: after some searching I was able to find them at bulkparts.com, but it doesn't look like anyone local has them.

Does anyone know if it is possible for the solenoid to be bad, but not cause the check light to come on in the dash?
 
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I'm not 100% sure, but if one of the 3 solenoids doesn't respond or react properly to a given signal (eg, "open" or "close"), it should result in a CEL. However, if it responds properly, but doesn't open or close all the way (mechanical problem like it is "gummed up"), my understanding is that it may not trigger a CEL. There are trans fluid additives that are supposed to free up sticky solenoids...maybe try one of those first.

And if the CEL is not on, you have no codes...usually.
 
I'm not 100% sure, but if one of the 3 solenoids doesn't respond or react properly to a given signal (eg, "open" or "close"), it should result in a CEL. However, if it responds properly, but doesn't open or close all the way (mechanical problem like it is "gummed up"), my understanding is that it may not trigger a CEL. There are trans fluid additives that are supposed to free up sticky solenoids...maybe try one of those first.

And if the CEL is not on, you have no codes...usually.

Thanks man!

So I pulled the solenoids today...already had the pan dropped. I put voltage to each solenoid, and sure enough, the one toward the front of the valve body (which after I dug a little deeper on yotatech, seems to be the one linked to the OD) is not actuating at all when I apply voltage to it...so I'm PRAYING that this is what the culprit is, and all will be well once I get the part. I'm going to contact Toyota and my local Napa to see if they sell the individual solenoids or not.

Thanks again Qyota, this site is awesome.
 

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