any tricks to getting off that last strut stud in the back?

[cordrayj1]

im putting some spacers on my friends 4th gen. last night, i couldnt bust the damn back ones loose on either side. I used a racheting closed end wrench, went to the store and bought an offset open end (the kind you plug the 3/8" drive rachet into), bought a brand new open end wrench, used my flare nut wrench, tried every socket it had. No such luck. any suggestions?

i sprayed some PB on em too, maybe thats all it will need.


any suggestions are appreciated

 

[dougiefreshmx]

Mine all broke loose relatively easily when I did mine. I'd let them soak a bit in the PB blaster and try again. I don't know if this will help, but if you need more leverage...

Two Wrench Leverage Trick. Using two wrenches to increase leverage on a tight nut or bolt. - YouTube

 

[MikeInNH]

When did the 4runner go to Struts??? Mine have shocks.

I replaced my rear shocks a couple of years ago. 3/8 drive ratchet isn't going to cut it. You need 1/2 inch drive. I even had to add a 3' pipe extension over the ratchet handle to get more leverage.

 

[cordrayj1]

When did the 4runner go to Struts??? Mine have shocks.

I replaced my rear shocks a couple of years ago. 3/8 drive ratchet isn't going to cut it. You need 1/2 inch drive. I even had to add a 3' pipe extension over the ratchet handle to get more leverage.

dont know what to tell you homie, thats what toyota calls them. i prefer using the proper nomenclature when talking parts. when you say the wrong stuff at the dealer they tend to be D-heads

2006 TOYOTA 4RUNNER Parts - ToyotaPartSales.com

 

[cordrayj1]

When did the 4runner go to Struts??? Mine have shocks.

I replaced my rear shocks a couple of years ago. 3/8 drive ratchet isn't going to cut it. You need 1/2 inch drive. I even had to add a 3' pipe extension over the ratchet handle to get more leverage.

and mike,

please tell me how you fit a 1/2 drive in there (the back nut). that is my entire issue, I cant get any rachet to fit back there

 

[Husker Z]

dont know what to tell you homie, thats what toyota calls them. i prefer using the proper nomenclature when talking parts. when you say the wrong stuff at the dealer they tend to be D-heads

2006 TOYOTA 4RUNNER Parts - ToyotaPartSales.com

Those are front suspension parts, which yes, they are struts.

The rear has shocks.

 

[who done it]

Use heat, I used a mini blow torch and it expanded the nut to get it off easily. That nut was such a pain, it was contemplating cutting it off, but the blow torch got it done.

 

[08T4R]

Try heat, if pb doesn't work. If neither of those work then see if you can squeeze a nut splitter in there and put a new nut on with the new shocks.

 

[LTDSC]

Those are front suspension parts, which yes, they are struts.

The rear has shocks.

Exactly!

after working the parts counter for years, youd be surprised how many people get this wrong.

 

[Husker Z]

Here is the rear. Are you talking the top nut, shown in section 10?

2006 TOYOTA 4RUNNER Parts - ToyotaPartSales.com

 

[talonjade]

not sure who I talked to but they had trouble getting to the top rear nut to break free as well, not sure if this can help but he decided to use a dremel and clear away some of the body over hang that seems to make it a tight fit.
It worked for him, also work that fulcrum (breaker bar) and as others have said get a good P-oil and let it work in.

regards,

 

[Jaden78]

I recently upgraded to a Bilstein 5100/FJ set up all around, and none of the above options worked. I ended up cutting the shock out.
The nice thing about the Bilsteins is they have a hex nut welded on the top of the tube to give you a positive point to leverage against.

 

[Radial GT]

not sure who I talked to but they had trouble getting to the top rear nut to break free as well, not sure if this can help but he decided to use a dremel and clear away some of the body over hang that seems to make it a tight fit.
It worked for him, also work that fulcrum (breaker bar) and as others have said get a good P-oil and let it work in.

regards,

I would not try this unless you plan on priming and painting the exposed metal. At least not in my state. That would rust out and be into the interior of the truck in 5 years.

I would recommend taking that dremel with a good carbide bit and just grind the nut right off that shock. It is all going into the garbage anyway. In MN here alot of things get ground off. I never even mess with something that is rusted on. Grind it off and be done with it.

 

[aha2988]

I would not try this unless you plan on priming and painting the exposed metal. At least not in my state. That would rust out and be into the interior of the truck in 5 years.

I would recommend taking that dremel with a good carbide bit and just grind the nut right off that shock. It is all going into the garbage anyway. In MN here alot of things get ground off. I never even mess with something that is rusted on. Grind it off and be done with it.

I can relate to learning my lesson on working with rusted nuts and bolts. The time you take to let penetrating oil to set in, work the nut or bolt back in forth only to have it wined up breaking in the final few turns... you could've had the cutting wheel out and new parts on well before the penetrating oil ever got to work lol. Cutting nuts and bolts off is a pain but time saving.