Anyone change wheel studs to longer length?

[hrod79]

I bought a take-off set of Tuff wheel T05 that came of a Taco. When trying wheels on I found I only got 4 turns on stud before it got tight. my understanding is I need at least 7 turns to be safe. I could buy new wheels and sell wheels to someone else or I could change out studs to longer ones. Has anyone done this or ran into this problem? If so what was part # and where did you get them. I also tried ET wheel lugs and they did not work.
Thanks

 

[hrod79]

Update: I did some looking on Dorman website and found a possible solution for anyone having t,his problem. Dorman #610-463 is off a Toyota Matrix and shows to be 55mm vs 40mm(front) and 44mm(rear). This option was about $70. Same knurl size. I also found ARP 100-7715 which are about 1" longer than stock. These are more $, about $170 for 25 ( sold in packs of 5). I ordered both and will see what the best choice is. After doing all this I thought to check tacomaworld forum. Seems that this would be something someone with tacoma would have ran into at some point. Let you guys know the outcome...

 

[eddiebx]

Update: I did some looking on Dorman website and found a possible solution for anyone having t,his problem. Dorman #610-463 is off a Toyota Matrix and shows to be 55mm vs 40mm(front) and 44mm(rear). This option was about $70. Same knurl size. I also found ARP 100-7715 which are about 1" longer than stock. These are more $, about $170 for 25 ( sold in packs of 5). I ordered both and will see what the best choice is. After doing all this I thought to check tacomaworld forum. Seems that this would be something someone with tacoma would have ran into at some point. Let you guys know the outcome...

I have no clue about what part numbers you need BUT if I may offer you some advice based on my past experiences. Please don't cheap out on wheel studs. Either get the OEM ones (ie. go to a Toyota dealership and get the studs for that same model Matrix you looked up on Dorman's website) or go with ARP studs made for your application.

I say this because not all wheel studs are created equal...the tolerances on the ribbed teeth that bite into the hub can be off on aftermarket studs. If the teeth are just a hair too small and don't bite into the hub enough, it would allow the stud to spin when you least want it to spin (ie. when trying to take off an over tightened lug nut, lol).

I've personally experienced this more times than I care to because trying to remove a lug nut from a free spinning wheel stud usually leads major headaches

 

[Dlak]

I am running the arp wheel studs. Dont remember the part number but if you google arp wheel studs for 4runner you should find some info. I THINK they are off of an is300 lexus.

EDIT: Here ya go.... http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1007or-arp-wheel-studs-toyota-4runner/

 

[Scramble]

Update: I did some looking on Dorman website and found a possible solution for anyone having t,his problem. Dorman #610-463 is off a Toyota Matrix and shows to be 55mm vs 40mm(front) and 44mm(rear). This option was about $70. Same knurl size. I also found ARP 100-7715 which are about 1" longer than stock. These are more $, about $170 for 25 ( sold in packs of 5). I ordered both and will see what the best choice is. After doing all this I thought to check tacomaworld forum. Seems that this would be something someone with tacoma would have ran into at some point. Let you guys know the outcome...

So what was the outcome? I'm having the same problem installing spacers on the fronts? I think I'm going with Lexus IS 300 studs from ARP.

 

[470SNC]

I had three lugs snap on me on the freeway with wider offset aftermarket wheels on my FJ, went with ARP extended studs w no problems after that

 

[drewm]

I had three lugs snap on me on the freeway with wider offset aftermarket wheels on my FJ, went with ARP extended studs w no problems after that

Lugs shearing off is always due to overtightened lug nuts, not stud length. Please use a torque wrench, your life depends on it.

 

[470SNC]

FYI i do always use a torque wrench and the recommended torque spec so I doubt that was the issue..

edit: Oh, i meant the studs snapped, not the lugs sorry.

 

[hrod79]

So the end result was the changing of the studs with the doorman ones spec for toyota Matrix. This gave me an extra 13MM of threads for the lugs to bite. The ARB ones ended up being longer than this however were too long to slide in on the rear axle without removing the axel shaft from the axle housing. If that is something you feel comfortable doing then this would be the superior choice. I did not want to go that in depth and wanted an option I could do by just removing brakes (5th Gen had to remove the shoes from the parking brake assembly in rear). Also, FYI without having a lug grab enough of the wheel studs due to length is a dangerous situation. So [MENTION=96713]drewm[/MENTION] it is not a question of Torq. it is a matter of thread contact and having enough bite. In my case with factory length wheel studs I only had 3/8" bite from lugs onto studs (or 3-4 turns). This will over stress the metal and a strong hit on a pot hole could easily rip the wheel loose.

 

[hrod79]

To be fair, over torq'ing the studs and lugs will also weaken the metal and can cause similar failure, but not what the intent of the post was about.

 

[Jeremy556]

I have also broken a few studs on the front, even with ET Gorilla lug nuts. I ordered the ARP studs, but they were too long for my lug nuts. I returned them and purchased Toyota rear studs, which are (IIRC) 4mm longer. So far, so good, and using about 80% of the threads in the lug nuts.

 

[sleepsontoilet]

So the end result was the changing of the studs with the doorman ones spec for toyota Matrix. This gave me an extra 13MM of threads for the lugs to bite.

What year/model Matrix? Rock Auto isn't matching up with that dorman part number.

 

[Cytronus]

Need about 1/4" to 1/2" more clearance for 35s - longer studs and 0.25 or .5" spacer?

Does anyone have experience running a wheel spacer plate on extended lugs? A spacer that would be too thin to have its own studs, like 1.25" Spidertrax set? I need about 1/4" to 1/2" clearance for my 35" tires since they're rubbing the UCA but I don't want to push the wheels out by 1" or more due to fender clearance and tires kicking up rocks on my rocker panels and damaging the paint. In theory, I'd like to try out longer studs with 0.5" spacer plate that I assume would need to be hub centric, not lug centric.

Any ideas?