Anyone else have front brake rotor heat issues?

[CutthroatSlam]

No noticeable brake pulse. Just the front to back swaying of the vehicle when coming to a stop. What beats me is that during the first couple months or so of me having new brakes that motion is not present at all. As time progresses it turns into more pronounced shaking when hitting the brakes at higher speeds with very apparent brake pulse.

We had substantial wobble under medium to hard braking from 70 mph down to 40 mph. Is there feathered wear on the outside edge of the front tires? If so, try rotating them. I just had this on the 2014 SR5 and rotating the tires eliminated it.

Then again I've had it happen periodically over the 343K miles on the vehicle. I've done the rotor replacement thing and have stopped doing that unless they are worn. It's mainly tire balancing followed by wear in front end parts. We also installed the ECGS bushing in the front transfer case and that helped. With front ends, it's typically the sum of a bunch of little things.

 

[Argyle Edison]

I didn't read all the replies, so I hope I'm not echoing here.

In my experiences with the T4R braking assembly, the calipers/pads are problematic in a couple ways:


The seals are prone to failure in areas of salt. This may or may not apply to you, but it's a thing (front and rear).

Heat kills seals. Duh

The pads that you buy these days, are not properly sized or shaped to fit these calipers properly. NONE of them.

Issues:
The pads are mass produced and the metal flange can be off or misshaped.
More importantly, the coatings they use end up leaving an oversized amount on on the contact area of the pad relating to the "slide" on the caliper.


Mitigation:
Sure, you can slam the pads in there. They will work. But over time they will willingly slide less and less till they inevitably stop returning and ride the caliper producing excessive heat, and the caliper will take a shit. $$$

I take some time and file down the pads where it contacts the caliper. I want them not so much loose, but free moving. When they heat up and expand, they will be slightly snug. Grease them appropriately.

Side note: I live in a winter salt hell. The only rotors and calipers I will use is Reybestos. The zinc (or whatever) coating they use holds up for a LONG time and they do not rust. The rotors last because I don't over heat them because the pads, and ultimately, calipers behave properly.


As far as downhill on long steep grades, people here have far more experience than I do. I'll defer

 

[CutthroatSlam]

I didn't read all the replies, so I hope I'm not echoing here.

In my experiences with the T4R braking assembly, the calipers/pads are problematic in a couple ways:


The seals are prone to failure in areas of salt. This may or may not apply to you, but it's a thing (front and rear).

Heat kills seals. Duh

The pads that you buy these days, are not properly sized or shaped to fit these calipers properly. NONE of them.

Issues:
The pads are mass produced and the metal flange can be off or misshaped.
More importantly, the coatings they use end up leaving an oversized amount on on the contact area of the pad relating to the "slide" on the caliper.


Mitigation:
Sure, you can slam the pads in there. They will work. But over time they will willingly slide less and less till they inevitably stop returning and ride the caliper producing excessive heat, and the caliper will take a shit. $$$

I take some time and file down the pads where it contacts the caliper. I want them not so much loose, but free moving. When they heat up and expand, they will be slightly snug. Grease them appropriately.

Side note: I live in a winter salt hell. The only rotors and calipers I will use is Reybestos. The zinc (or whatever) coating they use holds up for a LONG time and they do not rust. The rotors last because I don't over heat them because the pads, and ultimately, calipers behave properly.


As far as downhill on long steep grades, people here have far more experience than I do. I'll defer

Same here, I only use the top of the line Raybestos pads and rotors, and I do not live in a rust belt area.

As far as what to avoid, any rotor made in Pakistan:

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C1JVEbIoZJ0/?igsh=MW42M212dm1wdm4yaQ==

 

[ILL.T4R]

Follow up on wobble issue

After taking it to multiple Toyotas and two different off road shops. No one can figure out what my issue is. Even did another alignment, had all of the suspension/driveline checked, even had the master cylinder checked and calipers replaced out of getting desperate and nothing. Still wobbles when coming to a stop. Real close to giving in and selling. Only thing holding me back is these crazy rates.