Anyone haul an enclosed trailer weighing 3000-4000lbs?

[benjamin247]

I'm considering buying a travel trailer with GWVR of 3800 lbs (3000lbs unloaded) but wanted to hear people's experience hauling something of this weight. If you have, please post how the terrain was (hills, freeway, etc) and how the 4runner handled it.

Thanks!

 

[alumarine]

I tow 3000 lbs frequently on relatively flat terrain.
It tows it very well. I don't have trailer brakes.

If I had more hills I would definitely get trailer brakes.
Either surge brakes or electric.

 

[Rocky5000100]

I tow a 7x12 enclosed a few thousand miles a year the last two summers. It weighs 3000-3300lbs (CAT Scale weighed).

I definitely recommend trailer brakes if it's a regular occurrence like me. I have the Tekonsha P2 controller. Also, most states legally require brakes over a certain weight, not to mention it's dangerous to other drivers without.
https://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-908...F8&qid=1477419383&sr=1-1&keywords=tekonsha+p2

I'm towing with the auto 4runner. I installed a transmission cooler, and have temperatures under 180F most of the time. Before the cooler, above 200F was common, so I installed it ASAP.

I have 906 rear springs like you; they're perfect. Usually level, or just below, once trailer is hooked up. I've not yet felt the need for a Sway and weight distribution hitch, but that may be different depending on your trailer (wind profile, load balance, etc). I have mine balanced pretty well. 10-15 percent tongue weight. Towards 15% I found is usually better for control.

You will need to drive with O/D off.

Going uphills, you have to anticipate. Often you will have to floor it, and even then the speed (this is on highways) may decline depending on the hill. On flat or slight inclines, I have no problem holding 65mph. It can do 75mph on flat land also.

I average 9mpg - 11mpg.

 

[ajordan1975]

Always do a trailer brake controller! I would also add an aux trans cooler.

I wouldn't tow that much weight behind my 3rd gen, but that's me.

 

[thegipper]

It wouldn't hurt to upgrade your brakes with the Tundra calipers/rotors either..

 

[ZionXIX]

I tow a 7x12 enclosed a few thousand miles a year the last two summers. It weighs 3000-3300lbs (CAT Scale weighed).

I definitely recommend trailer brakes if it's a regular occurrence like me. I have the Tekonsha P2 controller. Also, most states legally require brakes over a certain weight, not to mention it's dangerous to other drivers without.
https://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-908...F8&qid=1477419383&sr=1-1&keywords=tekonsha+p2

I'm towing with the auto 4runner. I installed a transmission cooler, and have temperatures under 180F most of the time. Before the cooler, above 200F was common, so I installed it ASAP.

I have 906 rear springs like you; they're perfect. Usually level, or just below, once trailer is hooked up. I've not yet felt the need for a Sway and weight distribution hitch, but that may be different depending on your trailer (wind profile, load balance, etc). I have mine balanced pretty well. 10-15 percent tongue weight. Towards 15% I found is usually better for control.

You will need to drive with O/D off.

Going uphills, you have to anticipate. Often you will have to floor it, and even then the speed (this is on highways) may decline depending on the hill. On flat or slight inclines, I have no problem holding 65mph. It can do 75mph on flat land also.

I average 9mpg - 11mpg.

Did you install the cooler inline or bypass?

 

[Rocky5000100]

Did you install the cooler inline or bypass?

Bypass, to prevent any future pink milkshake (even though my radiator is new).

 

[ZionXIX]

Bypass, to prevent any future pink milkshake (even though my radiator is new).

I have been on the fence about installing the external cooler mainly because I dont want the transmission to overheat. If you able to keep temps around 180 while pulling an trailer, I should have no problem with over heating issues since I dont haul anything.

 

[benjamin247]

Bypass, to prevent any future pink milkshake (even though my radiator is new).

If I decide to have my transmission installed inline, would it be better to have it installed before the factory radiator so it is cooled before entering the radiator?

 

[alumarine]

If I decide to have my transmission installed inline, would it be better to have it installed before the factory radiator so it is cooled before entering the radiator?

All suppliers of coolers that I know of say it should go After the rad cooler.
They also suggest using the rad cooler and not eliminating it.

 

[Rocky5000100]

If I decide to have my transmission installed inline, would it be better to have it installed before the factory radiator so it is cooled before entering the radiator?

I followed this guide when installing:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...oler-transmission-cooler-install-3rd-gen.html

Hardest part was removing my rusted front skid plate bolts!

 

[benjamin247]

It wouldn't hurt to upgrade your brakes with the Tundra calipers/rotors either..

I would, but looks like I'd run into some fitment issues with 16" rims.

 

[Kbuch1]

Winter driving

Bypass, to prevent any future pink milkshake (even though my radiator is new).

[MENTION=85557]Rocky5000100[/MENTION]

With the bypass, do you have any issues driving during the winter?
I am wondering as I am bypassed in St.. Louis, MO

THANKS
Kevin

 

[Rocky5000100]

[MENTION=85557]Rocky5000100[/MENTION]

With the bypass, do you have any issues driving during the winter?
I am wondering as I am bypassed in St.. Louis, MO

THANKS
Kevin

No issues up here in Wisconsin. You'll definitely be fine down there.

 

[frodiesel]

[MENTION=85557]Rocky5000100[/MENTION]

With the bypass, do you have any issues driving during the winter?
I am wondering as I am bypassed in St.. Louis, MO

THANKS
Kevin

I have a divorced cooler, i am in stl, columbia, mo and kalamazoo, MI. I noticed with my scangauge II that going through the ozarks last week my trans would be in the mid 130s during decent and nearly 190 when smashing up the hill passes at 70mph. It was like that all winter last year, but it didnt go more than 10 miles each way to work all winter.

I dont see how it can be good for the trans to see such fluctuations in temp. The problem is the expansion and contraction of the fluid may also be damaging the trans. I hope to get it looped back into the rad. asap, its getting cold at night!

You may be fine for a while, but if you are not running a scangauge and monitoring then how do you know your fine. Trans temp should be 156-186. You may not do damage in short trips, but who knows. How do you tell if a trans has failed bc run too cold?

 

[Rocky5000100]

I have a divorced cooler, i am in stl, columbia, mo and kalamazoo, MI. I noticed with my scangauge II that going through the ozarks last week my trans would be in the mid 130s during decent and nearly 190 when smashing up the hill passes at 70mph. It was like that all winter last year, but it didnt go more than 10 miles each way to work all winter.

I dont see how it can be good for the trans to see such fluctuations in temp. The problem is the expansion and contraction of the fluid may also be damaging the trans. I hope to get it looped back into the rad. asap, its getting cold at night!

You may be fine for a while, but if you are not running a scangauge and monitoring then how do you know your fine. Trans temp should be 156-186. You may not do damage in short trips, but who knows. How do you tell if a trans has failed bc run too cold?

I do have temp monitoring [emoji6] I have an obd2 Bluetooth scanner hooked up and an app that shows me my temps. Mine never get that high in the winter. The only time they get that high is when I'm towing in the summer.


Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[alumarine]

I have a divorced cooler, i am in stl, columbia, mo and kalamazoo, MI. I noticed with my scangauge II that going through the ozarks last week my trans would be in the mid 130s during decent and nearly 190 when smashing up the hill passes at 70mph. It was like that all winter last year, but it didnt go more than 10 miles each way to work all winter.

I dont see how it can be good for the trans to see such fluctuations in temp. The problem is the expansion and contraction of the fluid may also be damaging the trans. I hope to get it looped back into the rad. asap, its getting cold at night!

You may be fine for a while, but if you are not running a scangauge and monitoring then how do you know your fine. Trans temp should be 156-186. You may not do damage in short trips, but who knows. How do you tell if a trans has failed bc run too cold?

If you live in a colder climate any auto transmission never mind a Toyota may never get much above 100 degrees if the vehicle is only used for shorter commutes. When they start off at -40 it takes a bit to warm them up.

There's millions of vehicles that fall into this category without any trouble whatsoever.

 

[frodiesel]

If you live in a colder climate any auto transmission never mind a Toyota may never get much above 100 degrees if the vehicle is only used for shorter commutes. When they start off at -40 it takes a bit to warm them up.

There's millions of vehicles that fall into this category without any trouble whatsoever.

I like your thinking. Read somewhere else about needing the temp to reach a certain point on prolonged drives for proper longevity. It should also be noted that MOST vehicles in cold climates rust out before something else can fail like a transmission. Something about a bath of warm fluid on the torque converter.. dunno, maybe someone who is still towing at 300k miles who has had a divorced cooler for a long while will offer opinion

 

[ajordan1975]

Divorced coolers are way better then the factory radiator cooler.
I've installed them on all of the vehicles I've owned that I tow with.

 

[frodiesel]

Soooo, who's getting divorced? Ive got an extra cooler kit if someone needs one for a small donation.