Anyone replace their rear main seal?

theoutbackdream

theoutbackdream

New member
Looks like mine is starting to leak, and it's definitely engine oil. Has anyone gone through replacing their rear main seal?

I'm wondering what will need to be removed to gain access to the rear main seal. Better yet, if someone has an instruction guide, that'd be amazing. It'd be for a 2007 v6 4x4.
 
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it looks to be easy but might be time consuming. the problem could come from accessing the bolt between the engine and transmission. worst case is you might end up removing the whole thing.

go for it and keep us posted.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
radlynx said:
it looks to be easy but might be time consuming. the problem could come from accessing the bolt between the engine and transmission. worst case is you might end up removing the whole thing.

go for it and keep us posted.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yea, from what I can see so far, it looks very easy. I've dropped a transmission from a miata before, so I figure it shouldn't be all that different. But i've never done an auto, and the miata had plenty of guides.

accessing the bolt between the engine and transmission
Click to expand...

What bolt are you referring to? The ones that mate the engine and transmission together?
 
Mines been leaking for awhile, I just keep an eye on my oil level. haha.

That being said, if it's 4wd you'll have to content with the transfer case as well. I should have just done mine when I was swapping TCs because you either have to remove the TC then the transmission, or you have to pull both out in 1 piece. There's a LOT more room with the TC out, but those bolts are a pain in the ass to get to as well.
 
Drunner97 said:
Mines been leaking for awhile, I just keep an eye on my oil level. haha.

That being said, if it's 4wd you'll have to content with the transfer case as well. I should have just done mine when I was swapping TCs because you either have to remove the TC then the transmission, or you have to pull both out in 1 piece. There's a LOT more room with the TC out, but those bolts are a pain in the ass to get to as well.
Click to expand...

Yea, I've been thinking of just monitoring my oil level frequently especially since it'll be $1000+ easy if I take it to a shop, but it's just an OCD thing of not wanting fluids leaking...

That's actually something I never considered. Makes me wonder if theres just enough room to play with, where you can disconnect the drive shaft from the TC to the transmission, and drop it without having to remove the TC. That way, you just bring the transmission back just enough to get enough space to replace the seal.
 
theoutbackdream said:
Yea, I've been thinking of just monitoring my oil level frequently especially since it'll be $1000+ easy if I take it to a shop, but it's just an OCD thing of not wanting fluids leaking...

That's actually something I never considered. Makes me wonder if theres just enough room to play with, where you can disconnect the drive shaft from the TC to the transmission, and drop it without having to remove the TC. That way, you just bring the transmission back just enough to get enough space to replace the seal.
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99% positive the entire transmission has to come out to replace the seal. I know a buddy did it while he was doing a 4.0 engine swap (he got a free t4r with a blown HG then swapped the engine) but he did it while the engine was out. From what I was reading in the repair manual while doing the TC swap, you have to remove quite a bit to get the whole assembly out. It's actually in the manual to pull the transmission to swap the TC, but we did it with lots of colorful wording, busted knuckles, and multiple extensions in creative positions to get it out.
 
Drunner97 said:
99% positive the entire transmission has to come out to replace the seal. I know a buddy did it while he was doing a 4.0 engine swap (he got a free t4r with a blown HG then swapped the engine) but he did it while the engine was out. From what I was reading in the repair manual while doing the TC swap, you have to remove quite a bit to get the whole assembly out. It's actually in the manual to pull the transmission to swap the TC, but we did it with lots of colorful wording, busted knuckles, and multiple extensions in creative positions to get it out.
Click to expand...

Well shoot. Guess that plans out the door. Might have to get myself a Hayes manual and see the recommended way to do it.

This is very good to know... Sounds like its going to be ALOT of fun...
 
theoutbackdream said:
Well shoot. Guess that plans out the door. Might have to get myself a Hayes manual and see the recommended way to do it.

This is very good to know... Sounds like its going to be ALOT of fun...
Click to expand...

This should help give you an idea of what you're up against. It's got the transmission removal somewhere in there too.

Toyota Factory Service and Repair Manual - 2007 4Runner + Updates

http://4runnerclub.com/i/4r_files/f...nginemechanical/enginerearoilseal_removal.pdf

http://4runnerclub.com/i/4r_files/f...07toyrm/07toypdf/07rmsour/4runnerr/008005.pdf
 
High Mileage Oils

My 08 V-6 developed a significant rear main leak 4 1/2 years ago, at 122K miles. I switched to Valvoline MaxLife Red, and the leak stopped after about 1,000 miles. I'm at 264,000 miles without a leak. Using Castrol HM now.

I switched back to non-high mileage oil twice and was leaking within 500 miles. Back to high mileage oil...leak is completely gone in 1,000 miles.
 
BTay1 said:
My 08 V-6 developed a significant rear main leak 4 1/2 years ago, at 122K miles. I switched to Valvoline MaxLife Red, and the leak stopped after about 1,000 miles. I'm at 264,000 miles without a leak. Using Castrol HM now.

I switched back to non-high mileage oil twice and was leaking within 500 miles. Back to high mileage oil...leak is completely gone in 1,000 miles.
Click to expand...

How long did you continue using the Maxlife before switching to the Castrol?

Not sure what oil [MENTION=157695]theoutbackdream[/MENTION] is using but trying this before taking on replacing the rear seal is well worth a shot IMHO!!!
 
AuSeeker said:
How long did you continue using the Maxlife before switching to the Castrol?

Not sure what oil [MENTION=157695]theoutbackdream[/MENTION] is using but trying this before taking on replacing the rear seal is well worth a shot IMHO!!!
Click to expand...

Used the MaxLife for 133,000 miles. I've been using the Castrol GTX HM for the last 9,000 miles (6 months) because I felt like the MaxLife formula changed when they changed the design of the 5 qt jug. The seal leaked when I used the new jugs, just like when I tried the standard conventional oils. Replaced with the Castrol HM, not a drip after 1000 miles.

Definitely worth a try. It's worked well for me.
 
BTay1 said:
Used the MaxLife for 133,000 miles. I've been using the Castrol GTX HM for the last 9,000 miles (6 months) because I felt like the MaxLife formula changed when they changed the design of the 5 qt jug. The seal leaked when I used the new jugs, just like when I tried the standard conventional oils. Replaced with the Castrol HM, not a drip after 1000 miles.

Definitely worth a try. It's worked well for me.
Click to expand...
Interesting. I'll have to clean the oil stain and see if mine is still leaking. I changed to Castrol gtx hm 3 oil changes ago.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
Hope for the best... If it's not dripping, or coating the undercarriage, my guess is the Castrol GTX worked. Mine went from spraying the undercarriage, to dry. I used a degreaser to clean after the leak stopped, not even a weep since then.
 
BTay1 said:
My 08 V-6 developed a significant rear main leak 4 1/2 years ago, at 122K miles. I switched to Valvoline MaxLife Red, and the leak stopped after about 1,000 miles. I'm at 264,000 miles without a leak. Using Castrol HM now.

I switched back to non-high mileage oil twice and was leaking within 500 miles. Back to high mileage oil...leak is completely gone in 1,000 miles.
Click to expand...

BTay1 said:
Used the MaxLife for 133,000 miles. I've been using the Castrol GTX HM for the last 9,000 miles (6 months) because I felt like the MaxLife formula changed when they changed the design of the 5 qt jug. The seal leaked when I used the new jugs, just like when I tried the standard conventional oils. Replaced with the Castrol HM, not a drip after 1000 miles.

Definitely worth a try. It's worked well for me.
Click to expand...


This is quite interesting to hear... Since I'm due for an oil change anyway, I might as well give this a shot. I've been running Castrol Magnatec ever since I got the 4runner.

I might just give MaxLife a shot first. Back when I had my miata, the Castrol HM oil would just give me an unbelievable amount of lifter tick, to the point, where I just did an oil change only a few hundred miles after...

If this ends up working... holy shit, you're a life saver.
 
AuSeeker said:
How long did you continue using the Maxlife before switching to the Castrol?

Not sure what oil [MENTION=157695]theoutbackdream[/MENTION] is using but trying this before taking on replacing the rear seal is well worth a shot IMHO!!!
Click to expand...

Currently running Castrol Magnatex. Yea, this is DEFINITELY worth a shot. Just crossing my fingers this works!
 
radlynx said:
it looks to be easy but might be time consuming. the problem could come from accessing the bolt between the engine and transmission. worst case is you might end up removing the whole thing.

go for it and keep us posted.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...



0959069f4396694f77fcdfb4ec2e5c3e.jpg
91e70176a02ff071b3cdb22df85eff04.jpg



Use it one time let it cycle through. Only put one 8 oz bottle of treatment in with the motor off. After start her up and drive.... you will notice after 200 miles that POOF it’s gone no more leak.... and it works for up to 10 yrs or something like that. I used it on my 95 4 runner.... and I have not seen any oil leak from the rear main.... now I only have minor leaks coming from the valve covers[emoji122][emoji1360]



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