Anyone shave their own UCA's?

R

runrunner

New member
I know you can buy them from Sonoran Steel, but as anyone done their own?

It seems that you could use a grinder and take a minimal amount off as to not jeopordize the integrity of the arm.

I may want to jump a tire size and dont want wheel spacers and would like to keep my Tundra wheels.
 
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yukonrider said:
Seems to me it would be easier to just buy some spacers.
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The OP said he didn't want to run any spacers. I agree that it would be easier to just put on some spacer though. I personally am not a fan of spacers if I can just trim off a few millimeters and not rub. Plus if I can trim them for free there i no reason to spend money.
 
I shaved mine. It took <1 min. per side with a grinder once the tires were off. I don't think it weakened them whatsoever because they are really pretty thick in that spot. I would post pics, but my truck is at home and I took the Honda to work. I never really understood why people buy the SS shaved arms instead of shaving their own and saving a bunch of $$.
 
brian2sun said:
I shaved mine. It took <1 min. per side with a grinder once the tires were off. I don't think it weakened them whatsoever because they are really pretty thick in that spot. I would post pics, but my truck is at home and I took the Honda to work. I never really understood why people buy the SS shaved arms instead of shaving their own and saving a bunch of $$.
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Brian, the reason people get UCA from Toytec or SS is because it actually changes the angle of the ball joint so you can actually get a good alignment.

it does add space between the tire, but its because the angle of the UCA changes.

I know that a few people were toying around with cutting their UCA and rewelding them back together in a better angle, but they gave up on that. the best way to give room for your tire is to shave it, the best way to give your tire room and get a proper alignment is with the LR or SS UCAs
 
brian2sun said:
I shaved mine. It took <1 min. per side with a grinder once the tires were off. I don't think it weakened them whatsoever because they are really pretty thick in that spot. I would post pics, but my truck is at home and I took the Honda to work. I never really understood why people buy the SS shaved arms instead of shaving their own and saving a bunch of $$.
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Can you post some pics later? How much material did you think you removed?
 
Duhockey said:
Brian, the reason people get UCA from Toytec or SS is because it actually changes the angle of the ball joint so you can actually get a good alignment.

it does add space between the tire, but its because the angle of the UCA changes.

I know that a few people were toying around with cutting their UCA and rewelding them back together in a better angle, but they gave up on that. the best way to give room for your tire is to shave it, the best way to give your tire room and get a proper alignment is with the LR or SS UCAs
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Correct me if i am wrong but i thought that sonoran steel sold stock shaved uca's for about 500 bucks, i wouldnt think those would change the angle of the uca
 
Yeah, I didn't think the SS ones changed te BJ angle (haha). I didn't shave mine near as much as the SS ones (which are shaved to fit 12.5" wide tires). I just shaved ~1/8"-3/16" off mine - just enough to clear my old 285s. BTW, I can still get mine good and aligned. No weird tire wear.

I'll try to take some pics for you runruner, but it's been getting dark by the time I get home from work so I'll see what kind of pics I can get with a flashlight (no flash on my cell camera).
 
The Sonoran steel ones show as $500 on the website but $250 of that is a Core charge and refunded once you send him your stock ones back. I still have my stock ones that I would be willing to shave and send to someone. I am running the All-Pro arms with Uniballs and get a little more droop and despite what Steve(SS says) they align perfectly.
 
Pikeman said:
The Sonoran steel ones show as $500 on the website but $250 of that is a Core charge and refunded once you send him your stock ones back. I still have my stock ones that I would be willing to shave and send to someone. I am running the All-Pro arms with Uniballs and get a little more droop and despite what Steve(SS says) they align perfectly.
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Since you say he takes the cores must mean he is using that set to shave and sell to the next buyer. which probably means new ball joints since I doubt he sends out product with the used ones from unknown abuse???
 
You would have to call him to find out but I am pretty sure you need to supply the new ball-joints. Also I remembered the modified UCA's only being 250 with a 250 core charge before he revamped the website. I seriously doubt he doubled his price so that is why I mentioned that half of that 500 is the core charge. As always contact the vendor to verify. If you click on the link above it shows the ball joints removed as the heat from the grinding and welding would destroy them anyways.
 
Yeah, I agree about the heat from grinding. I didn't even remove that much material off mine, but I did it in phases so it wouldn't burn/melt the BJ. I doubt the SS ones come with the upper BJs either, otherwise he would probably charge another $3 or 400 for some special SS ones.
 
brian2sun said:
Yeah, I agree about the heat from grinding. I didn't even remove that much material off mine, but I did it in phases so it wouldn't burn/melt the BJ. I doubt the SS ones come with the upper BJs either, otherwise he would probably charge another $3 or 400 for some special SS ones.
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Agreed. I never had a melted BJ but I imagine it sucks! :biggrin2:
 
brian2sun said:
Yeah, I agree about the heat from grinding. I didn't even remove that much material off mine, but I did it in phases so it wouldn't burn/melt the BJ. I doubt the SS ones come with the upper BJs either, otherwise he would probably charge another $3 or 400 for some special SS ones.
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still at 250$?? and then you gotta get the new uppers and install them? If you dont have a press, labor on that is a pain...

At that price just get the LR Upper control arms for 95.5-04 Tacoma and 96-02 4Runner - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits for 450$ ball joints are already in them.
 
Duhockey said:
still at 250$?? and then you gotta get the new uppers and install them? If you dont have a press, labor on that is a pain...

At that price just get the LR Upper control arms for 95.5-04 Tacoma and 96-02 4Runner - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits for 450$ ball joints are already in them.
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Exactly, that's why I just shaved my own and spent $0. I still don't get why people buy the uppers from SS when they can shave their own. Even if you don't have a grinder, buy one for $75 and you get to have it for the future and still save $175.

The Toytecs are nice, I just don't need UCAs. My stock ones work fine and I don't want anymore droop anyways, it's just more chance for CV failure.
 
brian2sun said:
The Toytecs are nice, I just don't need UCAs. My stock ones work fine and I don't want anymore droop anyways, it's just more chance for CV failure.
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The shocks are still whats limits the droop. The LR's are just able to travel a little further before the upper BJ starts to bind.
 
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