Anyone using this 20" LED light bar? $36.90 on Amazon
- Thread starter OffRoadGuy
- Start date
Doc2012
Senior Member
Anyone know where someone can purchase JUST the housing for a Light Bar.
I want to build my own, but can't seem to find anywhere that will be willing to sell just the housing.
I'm tempted to go to my buddy with a mill and make one out of aluminum. Cough [MENTION=59542]Singtoe[/MENTION] cough
I want to build my own, but can't seem to find anywhere that will be willing to sell just the housing.
I'm tempted to go to my buddy with a mill and make one out of aluminum. Cough [MENTION=59542]Singtoe[/MENTION] cough
I doubt you would find a housing for less than $37 if you are looking at a 20". Might be worth it to just buy one already made and strip it down for parts.
Yes it will, if you buy one of these brackets from [MENTION=133346]BradBrad619[/MENTION] http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/211930-2014-2016-behind-grill-light-bar-mounts.html
That bracket won't work with the unit in the original link. That one has bottom mounts. There is another one by TMH that has the side mounts that will work. It's a couple dollars more.
http://www.amazon.com/TMH®-Light-Co...eywords=20+led+light+bar&refinements=p_89:TMH
Doc2012
Senior Member
I'll probably end up doing this.
702 Desert Rat
New member
I installed the bar yesterday and after testing it out I noticed after turning the rig off, the light stays on dim even though I turned the switch off too. Any thoughts?
Either the wiring is wrong, the relay is bad, the switch is bad, or it is a defective light. I have a set of App Light Christmas lights that did the same thing. Even when I used the app to turn them off, they stayed lit but dim.
Confirm that there is no voltage coming from the switch when off. If there is, replace your switch.
Confirm that there is no voltage coming from the relay when the switch is off. If there is, replace your relay. (you did use a relay right?)
If the wiring is correct and the relay is working properly, return the light.
OffRoadGuy
New member
[MENTION=134094]702 Desert Rat[/MENTION] home of the biggest pistachio. Yeah, you need to check your wiring. Switch or relay isn't working correctly. Check by bypassing/isolating relay and switch one at a time. You can check the LED light just by wiring up the red hot wire to battery and grounding the black.
702 Desert Rat
New member
Thanks for the recommendations. The previous owner only had a fuse, no relay. I ended up ripping his stuff out and replacing wiring. It now works great without any issues. Sorry about the delay in the update, I was waiting to finish bed lining the grill guard and bumper before putting the light back on.
Thinking of putting one of those lights behind my wife's T4R grill now.
Thinking of putting one of those lights behind my wife's T4R grill now.
Attachments
I have a 24" bar from eBay that Ive been running for over a year on my trailblazer. Still kicking and I love it.
Ive got 2 LED pods from eBay I ran on my bike and ended up putting on the back of my plow truck this year wired to my reverse lights. Had em a year and a half and they are running great.
Also bought an 18" bar for the plow this style and it made a world of difference in the snow. A little blinding in the drifts, but not bad.
Just bought 2 new pods for the 4runner and tinted the lenses yellow today. Cheap Amazon pair but when I disassembled to take the lenses out they had a rubber seal inside. I ended up taking the reflectors out and everything seemed quality.
Hope this helps everyone.
Ive got 2 LED pods from eBay I ran on my bike and ended up putting on the back of my plow truck this year wired to my reverse lights. Had em a year and a half and they are running great.
Also bought an 18" bar for the plow this style and it made a world of difference in the snow. A little blinding in the drifts, but not bad.
Just bought 2 new pods for the 4runner and tinted the lenses yellow today. Cheap Amazon pair but when I disassembled to take the lenses out they had a rubber seal inside. I ended up taking the reflectors out and everything seemed quality.
Hope this helps everyone.
03v8raleigh
New member
Where did you get that factory looking switch for the dash?? looks great. I just ordered a bar and plan on adding one on the back somewhere as well. Do I need to order a second wiring kit (relay, fuse, and switch) from amazon or can I just add more wire and a second switch from radioshack to the first wiring kit?
This is the light bar and switch I just ordered for the front. I'm torn on where to mount a rear one.
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Floo...TF8&qid=1474591152&sr=8-1&keywords=nilight+32
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Wiri...g_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G5J5F1ST8FEVWSAW0NWK
Sisente
Member
Last edited:
bentos1
New member
I like the idea of hiding this behind the grill (3rd gen) but I would be worried that it would restrict air flow to the radiator. It seems like it would be important to keep everything cool.
To anyone to has mounted in the grill or directly in front, have you measured your coolant temp with a ScanGauge2 or OBDII reader to see if there are any spikes in temp?
To anyone to has mounted in the grill or directly in front, have you measured your coolant temp with a ScanGauge2 or OBDII reader to see if there are any spikes in temp?
Ariakas
New member
Some of the cheap ones claim they use Cree's but don't. I can't see well enough from the pics if they are. Ultimately if it works for you it sounds like a great buy. If it fails you could always gut it and rebuild using the LED's and drivers you prefer, then making sure it is put together well vs in a hurry.
Cree uses square LED chips. Here is a guide showing some info.
I am already working on building and wiring in a relay/fuse block for my 5th gen so I can add a curved 52" using the rago stealth mount.
I am planning on using this SLDX one listed on amazon.
I am actually spending more on the relay/fuse block than the light bar.
Here is a write up I am using to build it. I will be using the toyota style switches that mount like OE in the dash. I have three spaces available. One for power two for LED's and one for Air or Fridge in the future.
Cree uses square LED chips. Here is a guide showing some info.
I am already working on building and wiring in a relay/fuse block for my 5th gen so I can add a curved 52" using the rago stealth mount.
I am planning on using this SLDX one listed on amazon.
I am actually spending more on the relay/fuse block than the light bar.
Here is a write up I am using to build it. I will be using the toyota style switches that mount like OE in the dash. I have three spaces available. One for power two for LED's and one for Air or Fridge in the future.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Yes, I have it mounted in front of the radiator (actually, the A/C condensor that is in front of the radiator). No, it did not cause temps to go up, it's just not big enough to affect it. I also have a transmission cooler in front, also did not affect temps.
bentos1
New member
Thank you gamefreakgc, This is good information to know.
I do not much like the look of have the light bar on the roof or being seen externally, for a daily driver that is. I prefer it being hidden, although it would affect the usable light being thrown out. Although, this is not a huge concern for myself.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I've found that unless there's a large object right in front, it still throws plenty of light. Mine is a spot/flood beam combo so most light is in the center but plenty of light in the peripheral. I don't think I'd mount it any other way if I did it again.
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