AOB switch wiring question

I’ve been reading the threads on this forum over the last few weeks and I must say what a gold mine of data you all have put together here. Really great work!
However I find myself in a quandary. I want to add ditch lights to my trail edition, specifically these:

KC FLEX? LED DUAL PAIR PACK SYSTEM

I also would like to use this AOB switch I ordered (instead of the cheesy KC one the lights come with):

12 Volt 3amp ON-OFF Toyota OEM Replacement Push Switch with LED green red lights -Air On Board

So what’s the problem?
Well…
1. AOB states that this switch MUST be used with a relay.
2. The KC Flex lights don’t come with a relay. Just a harness.

My question is:
Is the Hella 66134 relay ok to use? Is there something better I should go with?

Thanks for any help in advance!

I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Been tackling this for a week or two and wanted to offer my tips. If you're going to install 1 AOB switch it's likely you'll install more since these switches are friggin awesome!

ZizArL4l.jpg

If you can build a wiring harness. Each AOB switch will be sharing:
-Ground (black wire)
-12V Source (green yellow wire)
-Dimming Source (blue yellow wire)

If you can group the above 3 into a single wire it'll make the install a LOT cleaner and safer. The setup I have above allows me to run 5 switches

5lHYGSIl.jpg

Ek8StT2l.jpg

Use a fuse/relay box and this cool holder from apex overland.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Waterproof-Relay-Cooper-Bussmann/dp/B01FWILL20
http://apexoverland.com/#!/Apex-Overland-Electrical-Mounting-Plate/p/82140711/category=19884034

So far I have 5 AOB switches paired to the relay box. I also have the HIDs hooked to the bussman fuse box. Still in my build's infancy but I can see myself adding another fuse/relay box in the future.
 
That looks great. It may be above my skill set though. I see a lot of issues with people frying the ECU. I'm having 2nd thoughts....lol. Thanks for the good idea though. Maybe I should really think about everything I want 1st.
 
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diagram is inconsistent with eBay switch vendor

[MENTION=147757]GearJunkie88[/MENTION]


Dug this up. I think Engineer is spot on with the diode as most new vehicles use diagram 2

This is just the exact opposite (RED & GREEN reversed) of the diagram I was supplied for my son's Sequoia. When I asked the eBay vendor, AOB USA for an internal wiring diagram, I got this advice quote

"we don't have one the red and green wire is for the switch turning on and off and the top light is on that circuit the blue wire is a independent light and black is ground for both lights Regards John"

I am guessing it makes no difference if it is just mechanical. OTH if a semiconductor or switching diode was used internally, then the correct color must be used for the 12 volt supply. The bottom LED is red and lights up when the switch is enabled. When pushed, the top LED lights up green. If the switch works but the LEDs do not light up then IMHO the red and green wires need to be reversed.

Anyway, my Sequoia project (aux battery, new radio, inverter) is at Sequoia

aob_another.jpg
 
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Okay I tried this and in the process shorted something:

Here is my situation:
All the lights went off in the overhead panel, the stereo side lights, the ac lights, and the wiper lights, sill get power to the green wire on the wiper switch, but the grey wire seems to not work.

When i run a lead off the gray wire to a metal spot on the frame all the lights turn back on? any ideas?

Also the dimmer switch still dims the gauge cluster and the radio screen, but if I touch the lead from the wiper switch to metal and get the lights back on, they wont dim now... Took apart the dimmer and its not burnt.

I am completely lost as to what happened and where. I went and looked at interior pictures on google to see if something wasn't lighting up trying to pinpoint where the short is but everything turns on when I touch the lead from the grey wire to metal, even the wiper switch still works.
 

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