ArrArr
New member
Didn't find detailed write-ups when I was looking into it (beyond "it just bolts on!" - it doesn't), so figured I'd share how I went about installing the ARB drawers in my '15 TRDP.
I wanted to avoid drilling into the body as much as possible. I strongly prefer reusing factory mounting points where possible. I also didn't want to lose the foam / sound deadening and cargo carpet. I mostly succeeded in this.
Overall I'm pretty pleased with the end result. If I had to do it all over again, I'd make some small tweaks (carpeting the plywood panel instead of paint/bedliner), but otherwise I'm pretty content.
On to the photos!
This is what we're starting with. 2015 4Runner TRD Pro, no 3rd row, no sliding cargo tray. As it doesn't have a sliding cargo tray, there are no factory mounting points available towards the rear.
If you have a sliding cargo tray (or removed it), you should have existing threads that you can reuse.
Fixed! Drilled a pilot hole, followed by a bigger hole, followed by a rivnut. Now we've got a mounting point on either side. I could've added more, but most of the weight (pulling up) will be at the front, so I left it at two in the rear.
Picked up 3/4" plywood at Home Depot in 38x41". I wanted a texturized look so I went with roll-in bedliner (Iron Armor). Not impressed with the end result. Could've done a second coat, but I ran out of supplies, and well, it'll be covered by the drawers for the most part anyway.
If I had to redo this, I would probably get some thin black carpet instead.
Note: I reused the factory tie down hat that's near the rear seats.
By keeping the factory foam and carpet in place, everything is mostly level.
The rear bolts run through the cargo mat, sound deadening and into the rivnuts we added earlier.
I used m8 t-nuts at the bottom of the panel, with m8x25mm bolts to bolt the drawers to the panel.
I first used just the t-nuts and bolts to secure them into the wood, so that once I put the drawer structure in place, I could just drop the bolts in and bolt it down.
Bolts in place.
Since you have to take the bump stops out to access the frame of the drawer system, and I already secured my 2 drawers together side-by-side (using the channel joint), you need to put the bump stops back at the end.
My roller-floor drawer has 2 extra bump stops that are screwed in from the side (as opposed to the fixed floor which only has 2 bolted on from the inside of the drawer), I was dumbfounded as to how I'd get the bump stops back in place after I had joined the two drawers together.
Fortunately ARB thought of that and added small cut-outs in the side of each drawer that allow you to access the bump-stops. Smart thinking!
Bonus outcome that I didn't plan / expect: by mounting to the plywood panel first (as opposed to bolting the drawers directly to the body), the lip of the ARB drawers works as expected.
All done. Doggo approves!
I wanted to avoid drilling into the body as much as possible. I strongly prefer reusing factory mounting points where possible. I also didn't want to lose the foam / sound deadening and cargo carpet. I mostly succeeded in this.
Overall I'm pretty pleased with the end result. If I had to do it all over again, I'd make some small tweaks (carpeting the plywood panel instead of paint/bedliner), but otherwise I'm pretty content.
On to the photos!
This is what we're starting with. 2015 4Runner TRD Pro, no 3rd row, no sliding cargo tray. As it doesn't have a sliding cargo tray, there are no factory mounting points available towards the rear.
If you have a sliding cargo tray (or removed it), you should have existing threads that you can reuse.
Fixed! Drilled a pilot hole, followed by a bigger hole, followed by a rivnut. Now we've got a mounting point on either side. I could've added more, but most of the weight (pulling up) will be at the front, so I left it at two in the rear.
Picked up 3/4" plywood at Home Depot in 38x41". I wanted a texturized look so I went with roll-in bedliner (Iron Armor). Not impressed with the end result. Could've done a second coat, but I ran out of supplies, and well, it'll be covered by the drawers for the most part anyway.
If I had to redo this, I would probably get some thin black carpet instead.
Note: I reused the factory tie down hat that's near the rear seats.
By keeping the factory foam and carpet in place, everything is mostly level.
The rear bolts run through the cargo mat, sound deadening and into the rivnuts we added earlier.
I used m8 t-nuts at the bottom of the panel, with m8x25mm bolts to bolt the drawers to the panel.
I first used just the t-nuts and bolts to secure them into the wood, so that once I put the drawer structure in place, I could just drop the bolts in and bolt it down.
Bolts in place.
Since you have to take the bump stops out to access the frame of the drawer system, and I already secured my 2 drawers together side-by-side (using the channel joint), you need to put the bump stops back at the end.
My roller-floor drawer has 2 extra bump stops that are screwed in from the side (as opposed to the fixed floor which only has 2 bolted on from the inside of the drawer), I was dumbfounded as to how I'd get the bump stops back in place after I had joined the two drawers together.
Fortunately ARB thought of that and added small cut-outs in the side of each drawer that allow you to access the bump-stops. Smart thinking!
Bonus outcome that I didn't plan / expect: by mounting to the plywood panel first (as opposed to bolting the drawers directly to the body), the lip of the ARB drawers works as expected.
All done. Doggo approves!
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