are 1st gen sr5 automatics bad for four wheeling?

O

OGCRUSH

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are 1st gen sr5 automatics bad for four wheeling? if so is it hard to convert to manual

thanks for your input
 
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Lots of the guys I wheel with who have manuals have trouble stalling out half way up an obstacle because they don't have three feet to work the clutch, throttle, and brake at the same time, and they always stink of burning clutch plates. The viscous coupling in the auto means I can nose up to the same obstacle and just keep throttling up until I pop a wheel up, and if I get balked halfway up I can easily modulate the brake and throttle to keep going.

There's solutions to the problems a manual presents for offroading. A handthrottle helps, using your ebrake can help, and lower tcase gearing is always a bonus. But solely in terms of ease of use while offroading, the automatic is king.
 
4.7 xfer gears and appropriate regearing of diffs to tire size and you're done. Who needs an auto.?????? Ill stick w standard shift
 
cometobanks said:
I have an 87 with 22re/auto it sucks on the road but it is the bees knees off road in low range
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it wont compare to an equally equipped manual.
the auto robs a ton of power.

i do run an auto in my offroad yota, but its also got a small block in front of it.:)
and, it does an AWESOME job. it could be a bit lower geared, auto 1st is pretty high, compared to a manual.
 
thanks for your input again , the reason why i ask is because i have the chance to buy this
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oh he is asking $4500 firm
what you guys think it is very clean inside but i do think i see rust on the top door jam in one of those pics
 
OGCRUSH said:
oh he is asking $4500 firm
what you guys think it is very clean inside but i do think i see rust on the top door jam in one of those pics
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Find out what gears he's got in front and back, and find out what he's got for an e-brake. Most disc brake conversions use a t-case brake or a line lock, and those might not be street legal in your state.

I think $4500 would be a reasonable price if the truck is built right, and that detroit was installed. The fact that he doesn't mention what gears it's got makes me wonder if he hasn't regeared it at all, in which case that price is way too high.

All IMO, of course.
 
I agree with Neveda IF we were talking on road, but,,, See my profile pic there? On the left my daily driver is SR5 22RE 5speed stick. On the right is a SR5 22RE auto.

I have both, they have both been my daily driver in stock form. I think you will be very happy with either on or off road. A SB would make the argument moot.:>

Looks like it has a rear 4.88 gear set (in a box), but I think (I've never done it or looked into it), but I thought the front IFS gear box is real expensive to re-gear. That is a pretty sweet looking 4runner price seems a little high, but not too high!!
 
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From phone, so forgive errors. The post that says manuals rob power is wrong. Manuals do allow more variable rp the rpmm/gear play, but simple hydrodynamics is what gives an automatic a superior torque access most of the time. Without getting to complex, the.physical in the convertor actually operates as a force multiplier.

I love an auto offroad. The power dynamics sre really helpful when you need good power and ffeather like control. A manual.will.beat out on a race track, the simply allow more shift curve control...but an auto is awesome offroad.
 
DC runner said:
From phone, so forgive errors. The post that says manuals rob power is wrong. Manuals do allow more variable rp the rpmm/gear play, but simple hydrodynamics is what gives an automatic a superior torque access most of the time. Without getting to complex, the.physical in the convertor actually operates as a force multiplier.

I love an auto offroad. The power dynamics sre really helpful when you need good power and ffeather like control. A manual.will.beat out on a race track, the simply allow more shift curve control...but an auto is awesome offroad.
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you would be right if these was todays auto or a 2wd auto.
the problem with the auto 4x4 in 1st and 2nd gen runner is due to the transfer case. it is being turned even when in 2wd so it robs power. the t case on these automatics is chain linked verse the manual 4x4 t-case that is gear driven. the chain link is being turned all the time no matter what.

now for the question. i have an auto 3.0 runner and i love it. never stall out on the trails and the auto t-case is geared just a little lower too. off the top of my head the manual t-case is 2.28 vs auto 2.56. i know its not much but with an auto in 4low, you go pretty slow. much easier to crawl on to the rocks vs the manual guys that have to gas it to get on top or else they stall. the only option for manual guys is 4.7 gears or dual case. i have wheeled alot with alot of manual guys with stock t case. i have a much easier time, they stall and dont crawl on any rocks. lots of stress giving more case to get up.

now off road the stock gearing was fine but on road it was ok. i have since regeared to 4.88 on 32inch tires. it no race car but its much better on the streets.
 
Toyotech, it's not just the slightly lower gearing in the tcase that gives you more control. The clutch on the manual is either engaged or slipping - those guys are gassing it so they don't have to slip their clutch and burn it up. You've got a viscous connection that lets you nose up to your obstacle and just build RPM until you've got the torque to get over it.
 
KidVermicious said:
Lots of the guys I wheel with who have manuals have trouble stalling out half way up an obstacle because they don't have three feet to work the clutch, throttle, and brake at the same time, and they always stink of burning clutch plates. The viscous coupling in the auto means I can nose up to the same obstacle and just keep throttling up until I pop a wheel up, and if I get balked halfway up I can easily modulate the brake and throttle to keep going.

There's solutions to the problems a manual presents for offroading. A handthrottle helps, using your ebrake can help, and lower tcase gearing is always a bonus. But solely in terms of ease of use while offroading, the automatic is king.
Click to expand...

I have more trouble going down an obstacle where jagged rocks stick up and I don't want slam down but slowly control the decent than I do going up. If I feel I need to completley stop, going again is tricky with only 2 feet. You need to get to the friction while you apply the brake, let go the brake, start to move and slightly press the gas. Mess that up and you bounce around. I end up going back and forth between all 3 peddals cause I don't want to go fast, don't want to stall, and I don't want to just roll down with clucth disengaged. With an automatic you can just coast down with your foot on the brake and if you need to climb a little you just feather the gas.

It sounds worse than it really is. And it does make it for more of a drivers experience. And you could push start it too....
 
also be prepared to keep that auto trans cool. especially when offroad.



that looks like a decent rig, but unless its got a bunch of goodies, its priced too high.
 
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