Are extended brake lines needed with daystar space?

[LHB2]

Hello,

New to site and first post, so hopefully I got this forum thing right!

I have found a few threads detailing out the installation of the daystar 1.5" spacer on the left rear side to correct the lean, but have not found anything on whether I would need extended rear brake lines?

I just installed the 5100 Height Adjustable Coilover kit from toytec (with the 5100 shocks and superflex coils in the rear). I did put a 10mm spacer on the left rear side to correct for the lean, but this didn't work. Side to side lean is still about .5 inches (with close to empty tank).

If I remove the 10mm spacer, anyone know if extended brake lines are needed? From what I have read i would net ~1" lift on the left side and ~.5" lift on the right. This would give me a slight rake.

Right now my measurments are (from the ground to fender):

LF RF
37 3/8 37 13/16

LR RR
37 11/16 38 1/4

Oh..., I have a 2008 SR5 w/V6 (if that helps).

Thanks!

 

[superman3043]

No, you don't need extended brake lines.

 

[LHB2]

Thanks! I ordered the 1.5" spacer without thinking about the brake lines after reading couple posts where this fixed the lean issue.

Do you know if installing just one spacer on the left side would effect ride at all without having the same on the right side (inreased stiffness, etc..)? Right now it rides pretty good.

 

[superman3043]

No, you're fine. To me, you'd at the very least need to be running some longer end links and maybe a longer (extended) travel type shock before you even think about stretching your brake lines. Even then, you can get a relocate bracket that will drop your stock line lower, instead of buying extended lines (cheaper). If you're running stock shocks and only a 1.5" spacer lift, you should be fine. I've got 2" lift coils and Bilstien 5100's in the rear and have gone full droop and not had any problems.

If you're truly concerned, just try to lift up the rear of your truck by the hitch until it starts to leave the ground and then inspect your lines to be sure. The part of the brake line you want to worry about is where it drops down the center of your axle before they run out to the hubs. That test will represent your worst case scenario. I've never really encountered this off-road though, where the entire rear axle is at full droop. Usually when you're off road, you'll find one side of the rear axle in compression and the other in extension, so it's doing more pivoting about the center shaft then fully dropping out. Hope that makes sense. This is regarding the type of wheeling that we do here. Now if you're desert racing and getting air... that's totally different.

I don't think you'll notice any difference in ride quality with the single spacer. Heck, I'm going to put one back on my drivers as well to correct the lean sometime between now and my next (maybe bigger) set of tires. I know ARK_SWAMP_RIDER has the single spacer set-up, so maybe he could chime in or you could ask him in a PM or the FAQ suspension thread.

Hope that helps.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Thanks! I ordered the 1.5" spacer without thinking about the brake lines after reading couple posts where this fixed the lean issue.

Do you know if installing just one spacer on the left side would effect ride at all without having the same on the right side (inreased stiffness, etc..)? Right now it rides pretty good.

No, not on the rear anyway. A rear spacer does not affect stiffness. This thread is what motivated me to give the spacer a try.
rear spacers? - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

 

[Alex T4R]

why there is a lean?

No, you're fine. To me, you'd at the very least need to be running some longer end links and maybe a longer (extended) travel type shock before you even think about stretching your brake lines. Even then, you can get a relocate bracket that will drop your stock line lower, instead of buying extended lines (cheaper). If you're running stock shocks and only a 1.5" spacer lift, you should be fine. I've got 2" lift coils and Bilstien 5100's in the rear and have gone full droop and not had any problems.

If you're truly concerned, just try to lift up the rear of your truck by the hitch until it starts to leave the ground and then inspect your lines to be sure. The part of the brake line you want to worry about is where it drops down the center of your axle before they run out to the hubs. That test will represent your worst case scenario. I've never really encountered this off-road though, where the entire rear axle is at full droop. Usually when you're off road, you'll find one side of the rear axle in compression and the other in extension, so it's doing more pivoting about the center shaft then fully dropping out. Hope that makes sense. This is regarding the type of wheeling that we do here. Now if you're desert racing and getting air... that's totally different.

I don't think you'll notice any difference in ride quality with the single spacer. Heck, I'm going to put one back on my drivers as well to correct the lean sometime between now and my next (maybe bigger) set of tires. I know ARK_SWAMP_RIDER has the single spacer set-up, so maybe he could chime in or you could ask him in a PM or the FAQ suspension thread.

Hope that helps.

Superman3043, silly question why the truck has a lean after lift, sometimes when i look at mine i think i do have it too, but then i think it is my driveway. Is it normal to expect? Tx

 

[superman3043]

Superman3043, silly question why the truck has a lean after lift, sometimes when i look at mine i think i do have it too, but then i think it is my driveway. Is it normal to expect? Tx

You know... I'm not sure if there's an actual definitive answer to this. What I do know is that it'll vary from truck to truck. I've even heard of a case where the owner had "passenger side lean". Now having that disclaimer out of the way, here are my assumptions:

- Could be caused by the fuel tank and steering mechanisms being on the drivers side

- Could be a function of the suspension components on that side wearing earlier since it is always loaded with at least a driver

- Could be designed in geometry to account for road crown

Again, this is just me spit balling, but it is very common in many vehicles.
Don't know if that helps...

 

[LHB2]

Thanks everyone!

No, I don't plan on any high speed desert racing, so no issues there!

Just to clarify thou, I do run the 2" lift coils (toytec) with the 5100 Bilstein shocks), the 1.5" daystar spacer would be installed on top of the 2" lift coil on the left rear. This is where I was thinking I might need to look at the brake lines (since its no longer running stock springs/shocks), but sounds like there shouldn't be an issue, but will do as superman3043 suggests and see how it looks at full droop.

Also, I have measured (from ground to fender) in several relatively level areas with the truck in different positions, its consistently lowever in the front left about .4+ inches or so and about .5+ inches in the rear left. I am hoping the daystar spacer will fix that and give a slight rake (I do tow a small trailer with ATV/hunting gear frequently and don't want to look butt heavy).

 

[superman3043]

Thanks everyone!

No, I don't plan on any high speed desert racing, so no issues there!

Just to clarify thou, I do run the 2" lift coils (toytec) with the 5100 Bilstein shocks), the 1.5" daystar spacer would be installed on top of the 2" lift coil on the left rear. This is where I was thinking I might need to look at the brake lines (since its no longer running stock springs/shocks), but sounds like there shouldn't be an issue, but will do as superman3043 suggests and see how it looks at full droop.

Also, I have measured (from ground to fender) in several relatively level areas with the truck in different positions, its consistently lowever in the front left about .4+ inches or so and about .5+ inches in the rear left. I am hoping the daystar spacer will fix that and give a slight rake (I do tow a small trailer with ATV/hunting gear frequently and don't want to look butt heavy).

Oh ok. Sounds like we'll have the same set-up then. Yeah, best way to answer your own questions is just cycle through it to be safe. I haven't had a problem so far and just because you add a spacer doesn't mean that your suspension is actually gonna let you travel further. ARK, you do anything with you brake lines?

Doesn't sound like you've got too much lean. Mine is an full inch from driver to passenger, so I think the 1.5" spacer will even it out perfectly.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Oh ok. Sounds like we'll have the same set-up then. Yeah, best way to answer your own questions is just cycle through it to be safe. I haven't had a problem so far and just because you add a spacer doesn't mean that your suspension is actually gonna let you travel further. ARK, you do anything with you brake lines?

Doesn't sound like you've got too much lean. Mine is an full inch from driver to passenger, so I think the 1.5" spacer will even it out perfectly.

No, haven't done anything with my brake lines. The OW rear shocks are the same length as the 5100s. I found that at full droop there is still some slack left. Adding the spacer has no affect because its the shocks that determine travel.

 

[Alex T4R]

You know... I'm not sure if there's an actual definitive answer to this. What I do know is that it'll vary from truck to truck. I've even heard of a case where the owner had "passenger side lean". Now having that disclaimer out of the way, here are my assumptions:

- Could be caused by the fuel tank and steering mechanisms being on the drivers side

- Could be a function of the suspension components on that side wearing earlier since it is always loaded with at least a driver

- Could be designed in geometry to account for road crown

Again, this is just me spit balling, but it is very common in many vehicles.
Don't know if that helps...

Thanks man, it seems like mine is on passenger side and i start noticing it after i installed lift kit and tires, at first i had a suspicion that my tire was low, but i guess i have to check it out on straight payment and measure it.

 

[LHB2]

Well, I got the rear Daystar spacer today, only while I was on Daystars website they listed KT09118BK has the part number for the 2008 4runner, they listed KT09127KB for the FJ Cruiser 07 - 12'.

I ordered and received the KT09127KB as the website that I ordered from said it would fit (confirmed by a couple other sites).

The two part numbers do look different. So I am a bit confused, anyone know if the part KT09127KB will in fact fit the 2008 4runner (will sit on top of toytec's superflex coils)?

Thanks!

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I have confirmed there is a difference between the fj and 4runner rear daystar spacers. On the fj, its spacer, isolator, then coil going from top down. On the 4runner, its isolator, spacer, then coil. Only difference is location of the isolator. Either will fit, not sure it matters one way or another.

 

[LHB2]

Thanks! After using google, reading and looking at a couple pictures in other posts, that makes sense. I was going to attempt the fit anyway, but good to know it will fit.

On the install ( I think I already know the answer), do I have to follow procedure as if installing both left and right spacers or can I just work on the left side? I have a feeling to get the axle to drop far enough I will have to remove both left and right lower shock bolts, etc...,

 

[wtn11]

Right now I have a 3/1.25 Truxxx spacer lift on top of a swapped FJ 4x4 suspension for an estimated 3 1/2 inches of lift. I did not need extended brake lines, though things got a little sketchy installing.

 

[superman3043]

On the install ( I think I already know the answer), do I have to follow procedure as if installing both left and right spacers or can I just work on the left side? I have a feeling to get the axle to drop far enough I will have to remove both left and right lower shock bolts, etc...,

I actually would think that you'd be ok unbolting the driver side shock and sway bar on that side and just pick the truck from that side. For more clearance I usually just take my bottle jack from the truck and wedge it on the bump stops between axle and frame (pro-tip ). Like anything else, if it doesn't give you enough, you can always go back and unbolt the other side. Good luck!