Are strut spacers bad?

[FOGO DE CHAO]

I saw it mentioned here that someone said strut spacers are dangerous.

I have a new 22 TRD OR and am happy with it other than the aggressive rake. I think I'd be happy just putting .250" spacers on the front struts for a .5" lift and some KO2s in 265/70/17 to keep it as minimal as possible. Spacers are stupid cheap but I don't want to do it if there's safety issues or whatever. Kinda like wheel spacers I guess.

So are they good to go or no?

Thanks.

 

[fkheath]

You are good to go. I have the RoughCountry leveling kit which raises the front 2.5 to 3 inches and the rear 1 inch. They are spacers. I also run KO2 tires in stock size. I have run this set up on some really difficult trails (Alpine loop in western Colorado) and have had zero problems.

The truck rides just the same as original because no springs or shocks are changed. Much, much better than the Jeep Cherokee and Wrangler I had in the past.

My opinion is that you do not need wider tires. The KO2 have a slightly wider tread than the OEM tires, but the diameter is just the same. I got the load range E tires (more plys) due to the sharp rocks I encounter off roading.

Be sure to get a good wheel alignment after the spacers are installed.

 

[srsrogerissrs]

Why Spacer Lifts are Bad!!! - Chi Town 4x4


I personally think a set of bilstein 5100s is a better option for just a little bit more money, but that's just my opinion.

 

[Whippersnapper02]

Coil spacers add preload to the springs which make the ride stiffer. Top plate spacers move the whole coilover assembly down which can cause the shock to bottom out before the suspension hits the bump stock which can result in bending. Most small spacers are ok but I'd just put my money into 5100s. Temporary lifts until you can afford what you really want never made sense to me.

 

[TRDHULK]

They do make the ride more firm and can cause more wear and tear on the struts

I had 2.5" strut spacers for about 27k miles until I upgraded suspension. The strut spacer gave me the look I wanted and allowed me to fit 34's at the time. I beat on it and never had an issue, and the slightly firmer ride did not bother me one bit.

 

[03_4x4Runner]

I ran a 2.5 inch spacer on my old 4th gen for many years with lots of off road with zero issues. I have run a 1/2 inch spacer (1 inch lift) on the front of my 5th gen for 5 years now again with zero issues. Both rode and drove like stock.

 

[FOGO DE CHAO]

I can do 5100s no problem. I just didn't know what was preferred between preloading the front 5100s to get a .5-1" lift or by just doing spacers.

 

[Pedro367]

I can do 5100s no problem. I just didn't know what was preferred between preloading the front 5100s to get a .5-1" lift or by just doing spacers.

The 5100s have 3 settings. .85", 1.75", and 2.3" I believe. There are just 3 rings on the shock bodies where you set the lower coil mount. You'd have to move your coils over anyway to the new Bilsteins, so just tell the shop which one you want.

FWIW, I didn't want to spend the money on 5100s since my 4R only had 30k on it and I really don't wheel much. It was $50 for .5" front Cornfed spacers for 1" of lift and I think it looks great with stock sized KO2s. I probably wouldnt bother with .5". My 4R drives exactly as stock. Getting up into the higher lifts doesn't make sense to have spacers, but I don't see the reason to spend money on new struts if you are only leveling it a little bit.

 

[BobsTrail]

Why Spacer Lifts are Bad!!! - Chi Town 4x4


I personally think a set of bilstein 5100s is a better option for just a little bit more money, but that's just my opinion.

I added 5100s with 0.85 setting. No more rake, almost level and the 5100 were only a little firmer, reduced the nose dive and felt a lot better for off road trips. The photo is with OEM tires, before the AT2s.

 

[dezertbomber]

If you're not going to beat on it too hard, run spacers. My 4R came with 3"/1.25" and I wheeled it decently without issue.

I'd recommend getting Durobumps as well to smooth out when you compress the suspension.

 

[Forgetful]

Mall crawler approved, goes well with all the pristine broverland stickers.

 

[2021nightshade4x4]

I can do 5100s no problem. I just didn't know what was preferred between preloading the front 5100s to get a .5-1" lift or by just doing spacers.

Love the user name haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FOGO DE CHAO]

Love the user name haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol thanks. Kind of an inside joke.

 

[FOGO DE CHAO]

I added 5100s with 0.85 setting. No more rake, almost level and the 5100 were only a little firmer, reduced the nose dive and felt a lot better for off road trips. The photo is with OEM tires, before the AT2s.

Thanks for posting this. This is exactly what I want.

I’m sold on the 5100s and probably C rated KO2s.

 

[rdruss]

I guess i'm a little dense on this subject even with the Bilstien explanation.
I'm running a 1" Dayco spacer on top of the top hat with 4600 Bils and FJ springs and it did exactly what I had hoped, lifted the front to be level, or very close with the rear. I don't see how this moves the shock down if the front is raised up.
When the spacer is put on top of the spring between top hat and spring and compresses the spring how is that any different than what a 5100 does when you compress the spring by moving the clip/spring seat up?
Duhhh!
I would need to make my own measurements to convince myself as to what is happening here. Chi 4x4 explanation on shock travel, which may be accurate, does not make sense to me.

 

[TEujunga]

I guess i'm a little dense on this subject even with the Bilstien explanation.
I'm running a 1" Dayco spacer on top of the top hat with 4600 Bils and FJ springs and it did exactly what I had hoped, lifted the front to be level, or very close with the rear. I don't see how this moves the shock down if the front is raised up.
When the spacer is put on top of the spring between top hat and spring and compresses the spring how is that any different than what a 5100 does when you compress the spring by moving the clip/spring seat up?
Duhhh!
I would need to make my own measurements to convince myself as to what is happening here. Chi 4x4 explanation on shock travel, which may be accurate, does not make sense to me.

You aren't dense. The people who persist in perpetuating the "preload myth" are. I thought the "preload myth" had died a deserving death years ago, but like a bad virus, it just keeps coming back.

There's no such thing as "preload" on the T4R coilover. With the weight of the vehicle resting on it, the spring will always be compressed the same amount no matter where you put any spacers or circlips or what have you. You're effectively moving the spring perch, not changing the spring rate.

Moving the clip on a 5100 accomplishes the same thing as adding a spacer. The difference is that the 5100 shocks are longer than stock, so the overall travel range is potentially increased. Adding longer springs is necessary to take full advantage of this.

 

[FOGO DE CHAO]

Dang. That’s a great explanation. I did not know this. Thank you.

 

[rdruss]

You aren't dense. The people who persist in perpetuating the "preload myth" are. I thought the "preload myth" had died a deserving death years ago, but like a bad virus, it just keeps coming back.

There's no such thing as "preload" on the T4R coilover. With the weight of the vehicle resting on it, the spring will always be compressed the same amount no matter where you put any spacers or circlips or what have you. You're effectively moving the spring perch, not changing the spring rate.

Moving the clip on a 5100 accomplishes the same thing as adding a spacer. The difference is that the 5100 shocks are longer than stock, so the overall travel range is potentially increased. Adding longer springs is necessary to take full advantage of this.

Thanks for your response. I have been thinking about this and scratching out some drawings and I think I understand some of it better. I can see how the "strut extension" which is the method I used increases the overall length of the assembly. By doing this I can now see something has to change with travel, Since the upper end of strut is bolted to a fixed location, the strut tower, the length increase will push the LCA downward, also the LBJ, so travel will be negatively impacted as the LCA downward travel is reduced from what it would be with standard length shock/strut.
The 5100 shock length remains the same no matter what clip you put the perch on, so shock travel should remain the same, but compressing the spring makes it stiffer and when the vehicle weight is placed on it, the vehicle doesn't compress it as much as before and results in "lifting" the body a certain amount.
The preload kit on top of the spring and between the top hat will actually cause the shock to lengthen from what it was and I can see that this will affect it's travel from what it was without the spacer and this will affect the shocks available assembled travel.
I think my thinking is correct here and Chi Town 4x4 was saying this but not explaining why in enough detail for me to grasp it. I would like to see this scenario played out on a 4Runner suspension so I could see what's happening. This summer I will take some static measurements on mine with and without the spacer and see if I can wrap my mind around it some more.
Does what I'm saying here make sense?

 

[TEujunga]

Thanks for your response. I have been thinking about this and scratching out some drawings and I think I understand some of it better. I can see how the "strut extension" which is the method I used increases the overall length of the assembly. By doing this I can now see something has to change with travel, Since the upper end of strut is bolted to a fixed location, the strut tower, the length increase will push the LCA downward, also the LBJ, so travel will be negatively impacted as the LCA downward travel is reduced from what it would be with standard length shock/strut.
The 5100 shock length remains the same no matter what clip you put the perch on, so shock travel should remain the same, but compressing the spring makes it stiffer and when the vehicle weight is placed on it, the vehicle doesn't compress it as much as before and results in "lifting" the body a certain amount.
The preload kit on top of the spring and between the top hat will actually cause the shock to lengthen from what it was and I can see that this will affect it's travel from what it was without the spacer and this will affect the shocks available assembled travel.
I think my thinking is correct here and Chi Town 4x4 was saying this but not explaining why in enough detail for me to grasp it. I would like to see this scenario played out on a 4Runner suspension so I could see what's happening. This summer I will take some static measurements on mine with and without the spacer and see if I can wrap my mind around it some more.
Does what I'm saying here make sense?

Nope, like most people, you're hung up on the idea that coilover's height or amount of spring compression prior to installation means anything. It doesn't. Again, with the weight of the vehicle resting on it, the spring in the coilover will be compressed exactly the same amount no matter how much "pre-load" is applied to the spring during assembly, whether by using an internal spacer or by adjusting the lower spring perch position.

One easy way to visualize how it actually works in the vehicle is to imagine the coilover if it didn't have a top hat to hold it together prior to installing. The top of the spring would be seated directly on the vehicle's upper spring perch, and the bottom would be seated on the shock. Moving the spring seat on the shock to a higher setting would simply move the lower spring perch position upward relative to the LCA, and that's where you'd get your increased ride height. A top spacer, whether it's underneath the top hat or on top of it, simply lowers the effective position of the upper spring perch, also raising ride height. The spring itself is always compressed the same amount at rest (unless you change springs, of course).

 

[slixx1320]

I read the 3rd gen tacomas front assemblies adds roughly 1” possibly 2” of lift for the 4th gens. Has anyone installed them onto the 5th gens? Are the results the same as a 4th gen?

I’m also looking to just pick up the front end 1” to 1.5” on my 5th gen. I don’t want to get the 5100 as I don’t want to spend $300/. The take offs from the 3rd gen tacos can be had for cheap. If I can accomplish the 1-1.5” level that’s what I prefer to do.