Arrrggghh. New brakes will just not bleed
- Thread starter Ruthven13
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TowMeOut
New member
http://4runnerclub.com/i/4r_files/f...toyrm/07toypdf/07rmsour/4runnerr/03900210.pdf
Never had much luck with the vacuum bleeder. Get a friend to give you a hand and do the old pump-pump method. Be sure to follow the directions though.
Never had much luck with the vacuum bleeder. Get a friend to give you a hand and do the old pump-pump method. Be sure to follow the directions though.
riceandpho
Elite Member
i do the vacuum method and it works fine. you sure the bleeders are not clogged?
Elan750
New member
I just had this problem. 2 new calipers. Right side had no problem. Left side, no go. I noticed that The left side had a larger bleed screw. Turns out it was rethreaded, and the sloppily put some kind of green goop to seal the new heli-coil. I had to drill it a bit them I was good to go.
Wasnt happy that was done tho on a "premium rebuild"
Wasnt happy that was done tho on a "premium rebuild"
Has anyone used a vacuum bleeder like the Capri Brake Bleeder? Or the Snap-On brake bleeder?
https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-Vacuum-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B00OM751EC
They use an air compressor to draw a vacuum in the bleeder valves.
Would this work with a 2011 4Runner? I only see posts about using “speed bleeder” valves or a pressure bleeder. Why nothing on a true vacuum bleeder (not a handheld pump vac)?
https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-Vacuum-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B00OM751EC
They use an air compressor to draw a vacuum in the bleeder valves.
Would this work with a 2011 4Runner? I only see posts about using “speed bleeder” valves or a pressure bleeder. Why nothing on a true vacuum bleeder (not a handheld pump vac)?
I don't see why it wouldn't work on any type of disc brake system. There are reviews on these, Harbor Freight makes a cheaper one that will do the same thing. I plan on getting one later to do my next brake job. Also, since it requires an air compressor, it's more likely that individuals won't have one, so less reviews.
riceandpho
Elite Member
harbor freight has the cheaper one. they all do the same, use it for vacuuming old fluid of any type, just got to make sure the reservoir is never empty.
Also the compressor needs to be able to supply a constant pressure for couple of minutes. the 4 gallon tanks compressor will have a hard time keeping up with demand. thats why i never tried using one. i know my 4 gallon coleman compressor from costco can only do so much. but if you got those 60 gallon tanks, it shouldnt be a problem.
Billynath1988
Senior Member
Recently did a full brake overhaul.. the secret with the system in these trucks as opposed to some other vehicles is you need a second person.. and they need to pump the brakes until there leg cramps up.. and then someone else needs to go in and pump more.. Dont bother counting.. just have them pump.. Key off, key on engine off.. and key on.. as many times as you can handle.. after approx 20 pumps or so.. crack the bleeder for a second and let air our.. and then pump more.. continually check fluid level and keep going..
Start with rear passenger, then rear driver.. then passenger, then driver..
Do this and it will come out like a new truck.
Start with rear passenger, then rear driver.. then passenger, then driver..
Do this and it will come out like a new truck.
falkon240
New member
Pump 40 times with key out of ignition.
Bleed rear calipers then pass front then driver front.
Then turn key to ignition on, let the compressor move hydraulic fluid to the calipers and bleed again.
Bleed rear calipers then pass front then driver front.
You have to bleed without the aid of hydraulic, then bleed with the aid of it.
Hope that helps.
Bleed rear calipers then pass front then driver front.
Then turn key to ignition on, let the compressor move hydraulic fluid to the calipers and bleed again.
Bleed rear calipers then pass front then driver front.
You have to bleed without the aid of hydraulic, then bleed with the aid of it.
Hope that helps.
SAC-CA-Runner
New member
Ummmm, you can just hold down the brake pedal to do the rear brakes as it will cycle the system for you and push fluid out. Done it a bunch of times that way but be sure not to let the reservoir run out as it pumps it quick. Front I just do the traditional way....pump, pump, pump, etc....tell friend to hold pedal, open caliper and close quickly without letting pedal go to floor. Brakes have always been solid doing it that way. Guess we will see when I change my fronts to 6-piston Stoptechs and 5th Gen rear calipers (bigger piston in caliper) how long it takes to do the fronts.
cloud
Banned
Wheel studs are super easy, got a hammer?
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cloud
Banned
This sounds very close to the Toyota recommended method. Anybody have the .PDF handy? It's probably stickied somewhere in the forum in the maintenance file.
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