At 60 mph my truck vibrates. Help.

[morgie]

I had vibration problems at ~110km/h (70mph?).

the cause was two things :

1 - The universal joint of the rear drive shaft was jammed. We replaced it. But that didn't solved my vibration problem.

2 - The universal joint being jammed, it made it hard on the "telescoping" part of the rear drive-shaft, wich became loose and was vibrating. Since a new driveshaft is pretty expensive, We simply solved the problem by swapping the telescoping section of the rear driveshaft with the same part from the Front driveshaft, wich is exactly the same part.

That way, the "loose rear and thight front" became "ok rear and ok front"

 

[haddix]

We got some ice/snow last night and when I went out I put it in awd and the vibration seemed to have gotten worse. Does that help anything ? May help figure it out ?

 

[DavidAlexander]

We got some ice/snow last night and when I went out I put it in awd and the vibration seemed to have gotten worse. Does that help anything ? May help figure it out ?

Is it vibrating all the time, if so maybe a ball joint issue. I have heard of people thinking their tire was unbalanced and it being a ball joint. Especially since you are running 285's, that puts considerably more strain on the front suspension setup than stock.

Maybe a wheel bearing, worn shock bushing, lug nuts that are not on right, loose mounted steering gear housing or loose steering components, or damaged idler arm. Those are if it is NOT ONLY at one particular highway speed (+/- 5 mph).

 

[haddix]

Its start about 57-60 and then if you keep accelerating it goes away at 70 something then comes back if you keep accelerating. Its worse in awd. It always happens at the same speeds.

 

[johnny c]

I'm new to this forum and I hope I can help. I had the same type of vibration right at highway cruising speed, very annoying. It only went away by having the tires balanced on a machine that is LUG-centric not HUB-centric. The wheels are made to be balanced around the wheel lug circle not with a cone like the hub style. I looked at everything else and finally talked to a tire guy. The wheels did balance up perfectly on the hub machine but were way off when done properly, hope this helps!!!

 

[DanDLT]

have the dealer balance your wheels with the haweka adapter

 

[bgmac]

have the dealer balance your wheels with the haweka adapter

Way to stay on top of things Dan!

 

[Mel]

Bumping another thread.
I have this same problem, when I hit 55 it starts to get a vibrating/humming feeling, sometimes at 60-65 really bad, then milder over 65.
I just got new tires, balance and alignment.
Relating to the hub vs. lug centric balancing (I called and they did a hub centric balance on mine), if my wheels are not original to the vehicle will this make a difference as to the type of balance that it requires (ie. I do not have Toyota tires)? The wheels say "Superior" or something - tried to find them online but no dice. Should I still do a lug-centric balance?
Thanks for any advice.
I have a '95...not 3rd gen but this is the thread that popped up when I did a search...

 

[02SE]

Superior Industries International, Inc. http://www.supind.com/index.html makes OEM wheels for quite a few different manufacturers, including Toyota.

If these wheels have been on the vehicle prior to the new tires with no vibration problems, then it's either a tire balance problem, or a defective new tire(s).

Hopefully the shop has the Hunter GSP9700 road force balancing machine, and knows how to use it, to determine what the problem is exactly.

 

[Mel]

Thanks for your response, and info about the Superior wheels! I have no idea if it had the same problem prior to new tires - bought the vehicle 2 weeks ago and was massively out of alignment and was so wobbly that I wouldn't have noticed it anyway I don't think....I'm going to take it into a place with the type of balancing machine you mentioned and see if it helps. Got the tires/alignment at Sears and they don't have this, which is a shame as it would be free for me to balance again. Grrr, this cheap used vehicle is costing me an arm and a leg!

 

[panzer]

Vibration Issue

Here is a great site with information on balancing the wheels and tires on our 4runner properly:
Vibration Problems

Here is the thread I pulled the above site from, he refers to the above website in hub centric or Lug centric - YotaTech Forums

 

[Mel]

Thanks Panzer, I will have a read.

 

[00_4runner]

I know I'm reviving an old thread but I have this exact same problem and haddix never posted a solution to this problem. I've got a 600 mile trip to go on in 2 weeks and I dont want to trash my drivelines shafts or u-joints. Anyone have a clear answer? And its not wheel balancing or alignment fyi. Sent Haddix a message but I know he sold his car and probably is not on here very often anymore.

 

[haddix]

PM replied but the reason I never posted a solution is I never really found one. As I added steel bumpers and winch it seemed to help. Id say the CV angles were to extreme and it was causing it to vibrate. Adding the weight up front dropped em down some. So just add an ARB/winch and you will be good to go! :banana:

 

[t4r4life]

weird cuz i have tons of lift but no vibration whatsoevea, i fels it after the lift when the truck is not aligned tho

 

[00_4runner]

PM replied but the reason I never posted a solution is I never really found one. As I added steel bumpers and winch it seemed to help. Id say the CV angles were to extreme and it was causing it to vibrate. Adding the weight up front dropped em down some. So just add an ARB/winch and you will be good to go! :banana:

Haha thanks for the response but after much research I believe Ive found an answer. the cause of the the vibration is the difference in angle of the driveshaft. The added angle at certain frequencies, engine speed in RPMs, causes the whole driveshaft to vibrate. normally at stock ride height these vibrations are cancelled out but due to the new angle they are not which causes the car to shake. I believe the vibrations occur mainly at the u-joints. After talking to one of my buddies who is a bigger gearhead than me he said the only way to "cure" the car of this is a 3 degree shim to lessen driveshaft angle and a carrier bearing drop. In order to completely fix the problem he suggested a one piece driveshaft as well. Now the fix is fairly easy but the one piece driveshaft is where it gets pricey ( as far as ive seen through google searches ) ultimately you can drive the car with it but it will cause premature wear on the driveshaft parts, nothing terrible where you should have to replace u-joints every 20K miles but there is extra wear (similar to offroading a car takes a toll on parts causing premature wear, nothing super noticable though). Ill look into the 3 degree shim and carrier bearing drop and hopefully that will settle most of the problem and possibly one piece driveshaft. A simpler fix could be to lower the front of the car, i have toytec coilovers, to lessen the angle on the driveshaft. Someone correct me if Im wrong but this was what i was able to find out researching. Im doing my a-arm bushings in the next week so i will lower the front to about 22.5/22.75 and see if their is a difference after alignment. I will report back! BTW i have an arb and winch coming soon! haha