At My Wits-End With My Locker

[Tyler James Inc]

I've done all the troubleshooting I know how to do, and have no other ideas on why my locker isn't working.
I've had the rig for almost 3 years, and haven't had one hiccup with the locker- until this Winter.
Went to use it when backing up my buddy's steep driveway- with one tire on gravel- and engaged it just to show off. He has a nice '99 SR5 Sport. Still spun- wtf?!
Thought it was a fluke.
Went on a local snow run- still no lock.
Tried it around the neighborhood- no go.
Took it apart to see if it had the typical water damage on the contacts- looked brand new inside.
Too the motor housing off- bingo!; one of the magnets had broken loose.
It was late- the night before a run- and I wanted to get it back together. I threw a bunch of super glue in there, and tried to let it dry, but threw it back together pretty quick.
No workie [emoji30][emoji24]
Thinking I threw it together too quick, I assumed the excess of super glue didn't dry/adhere, and it was locking up the rotor again. When I bench tested it before finding the broken mag, it tried to spin, but kept blowing the fuse- clearly showing a locked rotor.

I finally got to pull the actuator and open the rotor housing again- all looked perfect! I wanted to be excited it was fine, but I was only disappointed I didn't find the problem.
Bench tested it, and it spun freely in both directions, without blowing the fuse.
Plugged it in- nothin.
Thought maybe the locked indicator switch might affect it, so I fully installed the actuator- nothin.
Thought "hey, I wonder if I am installing the actuator in the 'locked' orientation, but the slide is in the 'open' position- and somehow the ECU knows that"
So I spun the actuator opposite that it was, and re-installed- nope!

The relay clicks, the diff lock light on the dash flashes, but no action at the actuator. At the connector, I get voltage for a few seconds when I click the button, and then voltage again for a few seconds when I dis-engage the button. That said- if I remember right- the voltage is on the smaller contact wires, and not on the larger gauge wires that run directly to the brushes/motor.

The 4WD fuse is the only fuse I know of that has to do with the locker, and that fuse is good. 4WD works, locker relay is clicking, everything I know to test is good.

Anyone able to shed any light? I'm about to buy a stand alone harness.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

How about a manual kit- anyone make a nice manual kit?
This has to be an easy fix, but I am so over it right now.

 

[theesotericone]

This has to be an easy fix, but I am so over it right now.

I'd start by checking continuity on everything. It sounds like something is shorting on you. Here's a pretty good write up on troubleshooting those things.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/167531-factory-e-locker-troubleshooting-%7C-bigfishallday-quoted.html

 

[Cagies]

I can't get mine to work either. I have the 1999 Limited with the factory e locker, I took it all apart today and nothing works. Power to the connector but no motor movement. Didn't have time to open the motor and check the magents. But it sounds like you have a short in the motor, I had a 1997 that did the same thing, powers everywhere but no engagement. I fixed it by moving the sliding gear inside over and over for no joke 10 minutes, really to work it in.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Maybe [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] has the EWD pages for the locker, I don't.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Thanks for the replies, guys.
Wouldn't the fuse blow if something was shorting?
I'm an electrician, and- although I don't claim to be an expert on electronics- I've always had fuses blow when something is "shorting".
It does seem like there is a fuse blown, because the relay coil is getting lit up, but I don't think there is actually current flowing through the contacts of that relay.
I'm assuming a fuse got blown when the magnets were causing a locked rotor, and that fuse is still blown. However, as far as I can find, the locker motor is powered from the "4WD" fuse, and that fuse is still good and well.

 

[TheDurk]

Maybe [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] has the EWD pages for the locker, I don't.

'97 Diff Lock EWD? Your wish is my command:

 

[Tyler James Inc]

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] always pulls through ☺[emoji1373]
Thanks for that, man.
Wish I could use it to help me figure out what's wrong.

 

[gamefreakgc]

This might be helpful? No resolution though, but maybe you could PM him:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/199547-e-locker-expert-s-needed-3.html

 

[IBallEngineer]

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] always pulls through ☺[emoji1373]
Thanks for that, man.
Wish I could use it to help me figure out what's wrong.

Why can't you use it? You can find grounds, test them to eliminate that failure possibility. Just on a quick glance I see the LOW Transfer switch needs to engage, I think, you can easily check that!

 

[TheDurk]

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] always pulls through ☺[emoji1373]
Thanks for that, man.
Wish I could use it to help me figure out what's wrong.

Have you checked that the L4 Position Detection Switch is providing ground to the Diff Lock ECU?

Power is a straight shot from the 4WD fuse. If anything is funky, it's on the ground side. I'd engage L4 and check for ground at Pin 8 of the Diff Lock ECU plug (blue-red wire). Also check the lock button ground signal is getting to Pin 9 (light green wire) when button is on lock.

 

[TheDurk]

Why can't you use it? You can find grounds, test them to eliminate that failure possibility. Just on a quick glance I see the LOW Transfer switch needs to engage, I think, you can easily check that!

You snuck in in front of me while I was typing. GMTA.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Have you checked that the L4 Position Detection Switch is providing ground to the Diff Lock ECU?



Power is a straight shot from the 4WD fuse. If anything is funky, it's on the ground side. I'd engage L4 and check for ground at Pin 8 of the Diff Lock ECU plug (blue-red wire). Also check the lock button ground signal is getting to Pin 9 (light green wire) when button is on lock.

If the L4 Position Detection Switch wasn't providing ground, the relay coil in the diff lock ECU wouldn't be getting energized, and- I assume- I wouldn't be getting voltage(lock AND unlock function) back at the actuator connector. I grounded the bl/rd wire within a week of getting the rig, so my locker has worked independently of the 4LO since I've owned it.
I wish the EWD was more specific about how the motor actually gets power. All it shows is that the green and green/red(M1&M2) just magically get power, and swap +/- somehow in the process.
I like the Chilkat cable conversion, but it's more than I want to spend to make my already "working" locker- well- work!
Made a sweet video for all to enjoy on this Sunday evening, but it won't upload. Guess nothing wants to work for me at the moment [emoji23]

 

[Unner]

[MENTION=97483]Chuckles89[/MENTION] has a manual linkage to the locker I believe.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

[MENTION=97483]Chuckles89[/MENTION] has a manual linkage to the locker I believe.

I ran across his YouTube video as I was cruising for info. Not sure if he has the cable actually hooked up yet or not.
I also ran across a video where a guy was bench testing an actuator, and said he had one not working due to the "crappy Japan grease" that was on the position contacts inside. He said once he cleaned off the old grease, and used new grease, it worked.
If that's true, I bet that's my issue. Fingers crossed
Maybe I'll pull it back off tomorrow.

 

[IBallEngineer]

If the L4 Position Detection Switch wasn't providing ground, the relay coil in the diff lock ECU wouldn't be getting energized, and- I assume- I wouldn't be getting voltage(lock AND unlock function) back at the actuator connector. I grounded the bl/rd wire within a week of getting the rig, so my locker has worked independently of the 4LO since I've owned it.
I wish the EWD was more specific about how the motor actually gets power. All it shows is that the green and green/red(M1&M2) just magically get power, and swap +/- somehow in the process.
I like the Chilkat cable conversion, but it's more than I want to spend to make my already "working" locker- well- work!
Made a sweet video for all to enjoy on this Sunday evening, but it won't upload. Guess nothing wants to work for me at the moment [emoji23]

And are M1 and M2 getting power and ground, and then swapping? You seem focused on the mechanical end of things. The last page of the EWD gives a rudimentary explanation of what conditions have to be met for the locker to function. The Diff lock ECU also requires ground at the T1, the RLP terminal, and input from the speed sensor.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

And are M1 and M2 getting power and ground, and then swapping? You seem focused on the mechanical end of things.

No, they aren't. That's why I'm curious as to how they are actually fed. I believe the contacts in the actuator are what control M1 and M2, and the wires that go to those contacts ARE getting voltage at the rear connector when I lock/unlock the diff. That's why it would make sense for those contacts to be gummed up. When I opened it up and saw everything looked new, I assumed all was good. Even though everything looks great in there, maybe the contacts are gummed up.

 

[IBallEngineer]

No, they aren't. That's why I'm curious as to how they are actually fed. I believe the contacts in the actuator are what control M1 and M2, and the wires that go to those contacts ARE getting voltage at the rear connector when I lock/unlock the diff. That's why it would make sense for those contacts to be gummed up. When I opened it up and saw everything looked new, I assumed all was good. Even though everything looks great in there, maybe the contacts are gummed up.

I'm not sure what you mean when you say the contacts IN the actuator. But I'm getting too far ahead. Power to the motor comes from the Diff lock ECU, when the proper conditions are met. As it states in the EWD:

THE CURRENT FLOWS FROM THE 4WD
FUSE TO TERMINAL 5 OF THE DIFF. LOCK ECU → TERMINAL 3 → TERMINAL 3 OF THE REAR DIFF. LOCK MOTOR →
TERMINAL 2 → TERMINAL 2 OF THE DIFF. LOCK ECU → TERMINAL 7 → GROUND.

If when you try to lock the diff, you don't have voltage at the Light Green (M1) wire of the diff lock connector we need to check a few things first.

1)The White with Black stripe wire at the diff lock motor connector must have continuity to ground.
2)The Light Green with Black stripe wire at the Diff lock ECU Terminal 6, must have continuity to ground.
THIS IS IMPORTANT because if the limit switch is stuck in the lock position the ECU thinks the locker is already locked and will not activate the motor.
3)The White with Black stripe wire at the Diff lock ECU Terminal 7, must have continuity to ground.

4)You can check for voltage at Green with Yellow stripe wire, Term 4 of the Diff lock ECU, this is the signal from the diff lock switch, powered by the 10A gauge fuse.

5)You also need the Speedometer circuit complete to the Green with Orange stripe wire, Term 10 at the Diff lock ECU.
I don't know if this is a square wave or what, maybe someone else knows.

If any of this is not as expected we can research further.
:hungry:

 

[Tyler James Inc]

More troubleshooting tonight. What a nightmare.

I'm not sure what you mean when you say the contacts IN the actuator.

I'm talking about these contacts-

Cleaned off the grease. I know it's supposed to be there, but cleaning this grease off fixed a non-working locker for another member. He re-applied dielectric grease.

However, that wasn't the problem for me.

If when you try to lock the diff, you don't have voltage at the Light Green (M1) wire of the diff lock connector we need to check a few things first.

I tried to check, but I'm not sure how to do so. The relays inside the ECU won't activate unless the actuator is plugged in. I don't want to damage/compromise the wire insulation, so I'd rather not just jam the probe through the insulation. Any ideas/recommendations are appreciated.

1)The White with Black stripe wire at the diff lock motor connector must have continuity to ground.

It does.

2)The Light Green with Black stripe wire at the Diff lock ECU Terminal 6, must have continuity to ground.

Under what condition? It doesn't have continuity to ground at any time, but it does have voltage for 5 seconds after the diff is "unlocked"(not that it is ever actually locked, but the ECU still operates as if it is).

THIS IS IMPORTANT because if the limit switch is stuck in the lock position the ECU thinks the locker is already locked and will not activate the motor.

If that's the case, it brings me back to wishing I knew the mechanics of the ECU, and am wondering if the contacts on a relay in the ECU is hummed up or something- aka "bad" ECU. What causes the light green/black to have continuity to ground?

3)The White with Black stripe wire at the Diff lock ECU Terminal 7, must have continuity to ground.

It does.

4)You can check for voltage at Green with Yellow stripe wire, Term 4 of the Diff lock ECU, this is the signal from the diff lock switch, powered by the 10A gauge fuse.

You sure? What do you mean "signal from the diff lock switch"? The switch on the top of the diff? It couldn't be that, because the Green with Yellow strip has voltage when the diff is "locked". Meaning, it has voltage whenever the dash button is depressed, and keeps voltage until you "unlock" the diff.

5)You also need the Speedometer circuit complete to the Green with Orange stripe wire, Term 10 at the Diff lock ECU.
I don't know if this is a square wave or what, maybe someone else knows.
If any of this is not as expected we can research further.

The Green with Black stripe never has continuity to ground like you say it must have, but does have voltage during the 5-second "unlocking" time period.

Thanks for your help, and any other insight is appreciated.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

https://youtu.be/TzhK_LRSnrU