AT oil pan leak ?

[stunt2]

The case is next: when I park the car it leaves at oil drops on ground. After a week or two it stops. When I check the dipstick (engine running, gear in P, hot oil) the oil is quite a bit below the hot mark.
Add oil to the level and and car again starts to leave drops on ground. Untill the oil level goes low on dipstick.
So, can I assume it's oil pan not sealing good ? Anybody knows where the dipstick 'HOT' mark sits according to the oil pan/trans mating surface ?

***

UPDATE

It turned out the pan was leaking from the sealing surface. Resealed it and all is good now

 

[spartacus]

The case is next: when I park the car it leaves at oil drops on ground. After a week or two it stops. When I check the dipstick (engine running, gear in P, hot oil) the oil is quite a bit below the hot mark.
Add oil to the level and and car again starts to leave drops on ground. Untill the oil level goes low on dipstick.
So, can I assume it's oil pan not sealing good ? Anybody knows where the dipstick 'HOT' mark sits according to the oil pan/trans mating surface ?

You'll have to get under and check. This link might help.


Transmission Fluid Leak

 

[3bears]

you might need to reseal the pan. It does not use a gasket it uses goo. if it has a gasket then someone has changed it out and I maybe its leaking. The bots that hold the pan on are low torque and easy to strip. When using a gasket it might need more torque and if the bolts are stripping then it wont seal. The filter in them is just a wire mesh, but aftermarket ones are not.

Me, I drop the pan, clean up all the glue, clean the screen new glue and torque correctly. then I run a magnafine filter in line near the radiator, and just change it every few years and do a flush.

the drain plug is easy to strip too

 

[stunt2]

The fact that it stops dripping when the oil level goes low, is confusing me. Just adding the quart to top it and it starts again

 

[AuSeeker]

The fact that it stops dripping when the oil level goes low, is confusing me. Just adding the quart to top it and it starts again

I could be mistaken but think the dipstick tube is attached to the pan, if so I would check to see if it's leaking around the tube where it's attaches, just a small crack in the weld at the top could leak when properly filled, go under there and spray it all down with brake cleaner to remove any ATF(wear safety glasses)and then watch it daily to see where all it's leaking exactly, then you can get advice on how to solve it, at the moment you have no idea where it's leaking, only that it's leaking.

Let us know exactly where it's leaking at the pan.

 

[stunt2]

UPDATE

It turned out the pan was leaking from the sealing surface. Resealed it and all is good now :israel:

 

[stunt2]

Bumping my thread up again. The pan developed leak shortly after my last post. Since then I resealed it 3x times ! The shortest period for the leak was next day, and the longest after 3 weeks.
On the last try I inspected pan's sealing surface, it was quite wavy, especially at the bolt holes. Seems these spots bend up when torquing the bolts and creating uneven surface, leaving almost 2-3mm of gap! Hammered down that high spots, straigthtened whole sealeing surface to be even and resealed it. That was the longes time without leak (3weeks).
Now I don't know what to do next :wtf:
Can there be any big pressure inside the trans, that causing the seal to brake ?

 

[2TH4IST]

Well are you using toyota FIPG (form in place gasket aka silicon) sealant or a gasket? If a gasket, stop using them and clean both pan and trans good and reinstall with toyota FIPG. Follow the instructions to a T for the FIPG. It's something along the lines of waiting a certain time before final torquing of pan.

Toyota FIPG.

Your pan bolt holes bent as you used a gasket at one point and over torqued the bolts or it could have been a previous owner.

Worse case scenario, would be you got silicon in a bolt hole and it cracked the trans case.

 

[stunt2]

That's correct. On second attempt I used the gasket and seems I overtorqued the bolts and bent the holes.
As for crack, I cant imagine cracking that thick trans case lip and not stirpping threads in aluminium case first.

p.s. My thoughts are still going to clogged breather or someting like that...

 

[brillo_76]

I haven't had one leak and all I use are aftermarket Pan gaskets. This is not normal at all. Its best to use Toyota FIPG and no gasket. How did you manage to bend this pan lip area? When using a gasket you cant torque the bolts, you end up stripping out your pan bolt threads. Maybe your pan is too uneven to effectively seal as using the Toyota FIPG would seal them. Are you a 100% sure its only leaking from the pan? Maybe its leaking from above and seeping onto the pan instead?

 

[stunt2]

^^As above, it stops leaking for couple of days after resealing. If the leak is from some another spot, it wouldn't stop

 

[Endlessblockades]

You could also get a fresh start with a bran new OEM tranny pan for about $150 (at first glance) You can also get a FAKE one from eBay or Amazon for less than half that, but if you love your truck, you know what to do. This link is only an example - search by VIN if you go OEM:

Edit - you may need to pause your Ad blocker to get that link to work....

 

[Endlessblockades]

I haven't had one leak and all I use are aftermarket Pan gaskets. This is not normal at all.

What brands of pan gaskets have you had success with? Asking for a friend.

 

[brillo_76]

What brands of pan gaskets have you had success with? Asking for a friend.

I just grab the feel pro gaskets from the local auto parts store. However, You can't torque those bolts with the gaskets though. You basically snug up the bolts 3 times with a stubby 3/8 drive. If it seeps a little you snug slightly snug a bit more then you got it.