at wits end

Antpwr

Antpwr

New member
ok well im sure nobody is going to believe me when i say this but here it is anyhow, i have been through 3 sets of cv shafts on the runner, and yes before i get all the feedback on which ones to use, they were the oe toyota, and yes i did say 3 sets, i keep ripping boots like their paper. does anyone else have this kind of luck, or is it just me as usual, lol. so i am so at my wits end that i think i am going to figure out a way to drop the whole front end down to get the oe angle on the cv's if anyone out there might have the correct stock measurement of the angle i would be happy if you could share, thanks
 
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Antpwr said:
ok well im sure nobody is going to believe me when i say this but here it is anyhow, i have been through 3 sets of cv shafts on the runner, and yes before i get all the feedback on which ones to use, they were the oe toyota, and yes i did say 3 sets, i keep ripping boots like their paper. does anyone else have this kind of luck, or is it just me as usual, lol. so i am so at my wits end that i think i am going to figure out a way to drop the whole front end down to get the oe angle on the cv's if anyone out there might have the correct stock measurement of the angle i would be happy if you could share, thanks
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The boot quality itself isn't going to differ much between OE and aftermarket. It's the quality of the axle itself.

You can get higher quality non-OEM boots and just reboot your torn ones.
Are the OEM replacements you are using used?
 
So this is coming from the opposite end of the spectrum but in the VW world you have an odd phenomenom when you have CV issues you will always have issues. I ran an extremely lowered car never had a problem but a buddy had a stock car and blow CV all the time.
 
yeah most everyone on here who is lifted has this issue. there are several things you can do to fix this... porsche 930 boots or other aftermarket boots, stretch your boots, diff drop or just keep rebooting them. you could also do the selectable locking tacoma hub conversion... but replacing perfectly good toyota oe axles is a waste of money man. but if you wanta keep tossing $180+ down the drain every time you rip a $30 boot have at it. -i know id be pissed if i was doing that too, i dont blame you:lmao:
 
ok lets see 3" lift in front, dont wheel it hard everyday, it is dd weekend wheeler, no i didnt throw away the other cv axles, still have them for when i actually break an axle, hopefully never lol, i have used new ones not used, and lets see gone through part store boots, both for 4runner and the 930's. And yes diff drop spacer, useless by the way, not much of a drop, just rotates the front down about .375" of an inch. and oh no, no sas, love my ifs and being able to do exactly what sas can off-road, besides if i want a sold axle in front then i will just find an 85 yota, like i had and stupidly got rid of, and wheel that. i think its time to "re-engineer" the whole front axle and its position, meaning i am going to drop the rear of the front axle to match the front, but i would need to know the exact angle of the cv's at oe height, and i am guessing that no one would happen to have that info handy, would they lol. Thanks for all the input guys, we will see how this turns out, wish me luck :redbrick:
 
I would recommend you dropping the front coils a 1/2" (assuming you have adjustable coils) and seeing how it goes from there. I dont see how you playing with the axle is going to affect the CV angle unless you physically move the front diff.

What do you have in the rear that brings you to needing 3" in the front. I have the tallest OME rear springs and still only gets me about 2.5" over the 99's stock height.

If you need more clearance for tires, which is logically the only reason for having coils turned up that high. Then drop your coils to a CV respectable height and get a 1"-2" body lift. You will save money in the long run.
 
There is a reason why the diff drop kit only rotates the diff. Its because you cannot drop the entire diff because the crossmember is in the way and will not allow it. If you do want to do something like that, your option is a drop bracket lift which are kinda stupid IMHO.

Having a lift on the 4Runner just means that there will be an increased angle on the CV's. More angle on them will cause them to wear out faster. Its just something you have to live with. I would recommend using ONLY Toyota OEM boots as those seem to be the highest quality. That or give CVJ Axle here in Colorado a call and have them send you some of their high angle inner boots.
 
Yeah I didn't want to go body lift there is enough body roll with the 4runner as it is but I think that's what I might have to do, and after a year of having it lifted it still netted 4.5" out back and as crappy as it is I honestly can't remember which coils I used I will have to check and see which ones I bought my memory sucks and I surprised I remember to put pants on in the morning lol. I think I might look into the place out in Colorado for the high angle boots see how that goes and again thanks guys for all the helpful input
 
I had the same issue. I tore both my inner cv boots. My solution was to buy all pro inner longer travel boots and I have yet to have a problem!

-DirtDawg
 
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