audio help

[BROOKLYN]

i have the sr5 with no jbl (the system sucks)
i'v been shopping around for upgrades but i dony know what to upgrade
i want quality sound so when i listen to my classical or alternative it sounds good but every now and then i like my bass so what do i do i want to buy everything together in one shop if its affordable but when it comes to audio i no nothing help please

 

[gold4runner]

upgrades

I put alpine type s speakers in my doors components up front and two way in back doors. I also have the scion head unit. sounds pretty good. Bottom line will be; how much you want to pay will dictate what you can get. Also alpine has some headunits coming out that appear to have a decent ipod interface. You might want to wait for those. Good luck

 

[NViejeP]

I was in the same boat as you. I didn't know what to buy. It all depends on what you want.

Honestly if you had the money, the ideal upgrades would be a new head unit, new speakers, 2 amplifers (one for subwoofer and one for speakers), and a subwoofer of course.

 

[BROOKLYN]

i really dont want to buy a head unit cause im saving for a eclipsae nav unit
and im looking to spend $500 on all other audio stuff now
so what do i need to address and remember i aiming for clarity and awesome sound

 

[NViejeP]

From what I got, if your looking for louder/clean sound and not so much bass. I would go with speakers first. But if you want mroe bass go with the subwoofer.

For me, I listen to rock and rap so its a mix of both. But my current speakers suck, so I'm getting a new head unit and new rear door speakers. And then last I'm going to get an amplifer + subwoofer.

 

[BROOKLYN]

how many speakers are in this truck (non-jbl) and whats there sizes

 

[NViejeP]

I have 2000 4runner. I might have one in the trunk, don't really knwo for sure haha. Its been like a week since I've had the 4runner. But I'm going to only upgrade the front doro and rear door speakers.

 

[ooja3k]

i would do the speakers first, especially if your looking for sound quality. if u put a sub in the back, it will over power and drain out your speakers, but if you get some nice speakers, $100-$300 a pair, it will sound great and then all u have to do is fill up the bottom end with a sub down the road a little ways.

 

[atomic punk]

Dude, $500 is a tough budget to work with since it seems like you want a complete system overhaul. (everything for practically nothing?). Speakers will certainly help, but buying 2 pairs of the decent speakers that other members mentioned in this thread will kill more than 1/2 of your budget right there.

For that amount of money, I'd look into buying these - with estimated ebay prices:

> Infinity Kappa Speakers ($75/pr) Need 2 pair....
(but you will need to get components for the front, so those will be more expensive - I haven't replaced mine yet, so maybe someone else can help you out there)
> Sony/Alpine another midgrade (25wx4channel) amp ($200?)
> Infinity Basslink I ($180)

$530 or so.

Also, try searching the archives of this forum for previous posts/opinions/system designs.

 

[trd_style]

Dude, $500 is a tough budget to work with since it seems like you want a complete system overhaul. (everything for practically nothing?). Speakers will certainly help, but buying 2 pairs of the decent speakers that other members mentioned in this thread will kill more than 1/2 of your budget right there.

For that amount of money, I'd look into buying these - with estimated ebay prices:

> Infinity Kappa Speakers ($75/pr) Need 2 pair....
(but you will need to get components for the front, so those will be more expensive - I haven't replaced mine yet, so maybe someone else can help you out there)
> Sony/Alpine another midgrade (25wx4channel) amp ($200?)
> Infinity Basslink I ($180)

$530 or so.

Also, try searching the archives of this forum for previous posts/opinions/system designs.

this is correct. i rather buy the BEST quality that might cost alot rather than buying a cheap speaker that wouldn't last long. get me? expensive=last longer+best quality sound / cheaper=doesn't last longer+okay sound (for now)

 

[MDRCD]

IMO @ $500, you may just be better off dealing with the stock system and saving up for a better overall system. It will most likely cost you more to get a cheap system now and then upgrade again later; (especially since installation doesn't come cheap). An overhaul in the T4R that would create better overall sound is going to cost minimally around 1K.

However, if you absolutely must, replace the HU, and the fronts first, as most serious audiophiles will get rid of the rears completely, since they just provide fill.

 

[BROOKLYN]

i decided what i am going to put in my 05 4runner tell me what you think Diamond Audio M661 6-1/2" Component System
Infinity CLEAR BassLink X 10" Class D Powered Subwoofer
Boston Acoustics S65RC 6*5 speakers coaxiel

now i need an amp to power the speakers but i cant find one im looking for a 300-350watt rms amp 2-channel 4 ohms for under $200 any ideas

i guess i went over my $500 budget

 

[ovrrdrive]

However, if you absolutely must, replace the HU, and the fronts first, as most serious audiophiles will get rid of the rears completely, since they just provide fill.

Dude, no offense, but no serious audiophile has any business listening to music in an automobile period. They would be better off replacing the stock HU with nav only and ripping the rest of it out of the truck, then upgrading the mufflers so they could listen to the engine while they drove.

No matter how much you spend, from what I've seen you will never make a serious audiophile happy with the sound in an environment with so many directional reflections, speakers in close proximities to the ears, and low frequency resonations as we find in any car. Listening is for entertainment only while driving.

That said, rear speakers should be utilized if for no other reason than to bridge the gap between the front stage and the subwoofers in the back. Even though bass is largely non-directional, there will be enough noise from it to tell where it is coming from and it just sounds funny when the highs are properly crossed in the front and the woofer is in the back.

Another reason to keep the rears is just in case you ever have passengers in the back seats.

Not trying to slam you here, merely offer a differing opinion...

Truth be told, the home stereo "audiophile" group irritates the shit out of me. "You would think that at $95,000 a set these speakers wouldn't have the amazingly harsh midrange and shrill highs that they come with out of the box. I was able to minimize this effect by moving the speakers 1.335" closer to the walls and by turning my head 3 degrees to the right, but it was still like nails on a chalkboard to me... " :bash: :FOS:

:jump:

 

[MDRCD]

No matter how much you spend, from what I've seen you will never make a serious audiophile happy with the sound in an environment with so many directional reflections, speakers in close proximities to the ears, and low frequency resonations as we find in any car. Listening is for entertainment only while driving.

None taken.

But as far reducing low frequency resonations, you would dynamat the areas of the car which sound travels inwards most from, usually two layers will significantly reduce any road/engine noise entering the cabin. The difference in speaker proximities can also pose a problem, but this can be adjusted with time correction. I agree that you cannot make a serious audiophile happy with a car's cabin as a sound stage, but as far as seeking and achieveing far superior quality sound from the stock, or even the JBL Synthesis option, it can definitely be done.

 

[BROOKLYN]

i still need an amp to power the speakers that are coming thursday
Diamond Audio M661 6-1/2" Component System

Infinity CLEAR BassLink X 10" Class D Powered Subwoofer

Boston Acoustics S65RC 6*5 speakers coaxiel



but i cant find one im looking for a 300-350watt rms amp 2-channel 4 ohms for under $200 any ideas

can i use a 600-650amp 4channel instead cause i seriously have no clue what to buy and i cant find an amp i need everything as less watts or more and people been telling me if i have to much amps ill fry the speakers guys please help

 

[NViejeP]

i still need an amp to power the speakers that are coming thursday
Diamond Audio M661 6-1/2" Component System

Infinity CLEAR BassLink X 10" Class D Powered Subwoofer

Boston Acoustics S65RC 6*5 speakers coaxiel



but i cant find one im looking for a 300-350watt rms amp 2-channel 4 ohms for under $200 any ideas

can i use a 600-650amp 4channel instead cause i seriously have no clue what to buy and i cant find an amp i need everything as less watts or more and people been telling me if i have to much amps ill fry the speakers guys please help

I'm curious to hear if getting too many watts on your amp than your speakers can handle will fry it. Because I too will be in the same boat as you soon as soon as I get money.

But find a mdoel you like and then check on ebay, thats waht I did and you often find stuff a lot cheaper. Like basslink in retail is like $300, but on ebay its like $200 shipped.

 

[alaskanboi]

If you get an amp that has more power than your speakers can handle, your amp will be fine. Just dont turn it up too high or you can blow your speakers....

 

[NViejeP]

If you get an amp that has more power than your speakers can handle, your amp will be fine. Just dont turn it up too high or you can blow your speakers....

And does the chances of blowing your speakers increase by the larger difference of watts?

Like will a 200 watt powering 2x 50s have a higher chance to blow than a 200 watt powering 2x 75?

And how would I prevent any chance of it blowing? Get the exact amount of watts?

 

[rook]

Dude, no offense, but no serious audiophile has any business listening to music in an automobile period. They would be better off replacing the stock HU with nav only and ripping the rest of it out of the truck, then upgrading the mufflers so they could listen to the engine while they drove.

:jump:

actually Amar Bose stated an automobile is an ideal environment because it can be controlled.. speaker and listener placement are for the most part, fixed and the sound can therefore be optimized for the listener

 

[alaskanboi]

And does the chances of blowing your speakers increase by the larger difference of watts?

Like will a 200 watt powering 2x 50s have a higher chance to blow than a 200 watt powering 2x 75?

And how would I prevent any chance of it blowing? Get the exact amount of watts?

One thing you have to realize is the RMS wattage. (This is not a correct term, but one widely used). RMS wattage is supposed to define the average power. For example, an amp can have a peak power of 300 watts. And if you have 4 speakers that have a peak power of 75 watts each, that sounds fine. However, if you look at the RMS of the amp, it may be 125 RMS Watts. Then look at the speakers, which may have an RMS of 40. Total RMS the amp will need would be 160, thus the amp would not be powerful enough under continious power, and may over heat and have problems. If you want to understand this more, I would suggest to search for it since this isn't very detailed.

Regarding your question about your speakers blowing.. Each speaker is made differently. However, if you want an easy answer, speakers reporting to have the ability to handle more peak power are less likely to blow than speakers having a lower peak power using the same amp.

It is very hard to tell you how to lower your risk of blowing a speaker. I am not sure how you listen to your music. If you listen to it very loud, then you will want to get close to the same power rating of amp as speaker. However, the louder you want it, the more power you will want to be able to provide to prevent distortion... All comes down to budget and what your listening style is.