Audio Upgrade?

Hines said:
If you do the work yourself you can keep the cost down pretty well. even going the dsp route has its limitations with the stock HU. they can be made to sound really good. i just wasnt willing to have a seperate volume adjustment to maintain my signal output quality. Like my lazy steering wheel functions :P

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The stock head unit has integrated features enough for me. Unless your intent is to use digital/optical output to amplifiers I doubt one could "listen" to an aftermarket head unit or a factory head unit plus dsp and be able to discern the difference if both were properly tuned. The audison does have a remote interface and I installed on. It gives access to subwoofer levels, master volume, 2 different tune files, and balance, fader. It isnt required to use this or even install it. The master volume mwximum can be set via pc interface and never touched again. Then head unit or steering controls can be used to dial in whatever volume you desire. I have a remote installed but primarily adjust volume via steering wheel control.

I think the only questionable issue with NOT using the remote to control levels are this....
When performing the de equalization process it is done with factory head unit set to max undistorted volume. I did this at "60". So, there exists the possibility that Toyata built into the head unit tuning an equalization curve that changed at different volumes. As in, maybe more bass at low volumes and less at high volumes. Again that "may" exist, but if so I have never seen a preamp or head unit with frequency adjustments that can be scaled to volume adjustments. It something that were that sophisticated existed, what would prompt toyota to pair it with $10 speakers...lol. My opinion is that because of the nature of automobile construction and materials and shape, most any mobile audio solution will not remain "flat" in frequency response if measured across the volume scale. Cars get boomy at high volumes. Less bass response at low levels. Sound deadening helps but isnt perfect.

Which car audio setup is right for one person verses the next really comes down to one thing only. Budget. How much are you willing to spend on this modification. Same applies to suspension, wheels, bumpers, winches, etc. we all set a budget and then carefully research the options in our budget to get the most we can inside our budget.
 
it all depends on your expectations of your system i guess. I know the RCA's at a higher voltage from the aftermarket HU sends a much cleaner output then what a speaker level would. but i am looking for SQ in my setup so that was the driving factor in my decision. The kenwood HU blows away the stock with navigation and even speaker level output to the speakers. plus you can use apple car play or android auto which i do like. once I upgraded my HU I realized how far behind the factory entune setup is.....my opinion obviously....

The stock HU adjusts it eq vs output to save the factory speakers from exploding at any decent volume......LOL

again, if your just someone looking for better sound within a budget, i agree, factory HU, upgrade the speakers maybe some sound deadening (big help in midbass even with factory speakers), add a sub. call it a day and be happy.
 
Good bye and good riddance Entune!

Installed this Alpine ILX-107 with the Maestro interface in the 5th gen over the weekend. So nice having something in there that not only works better and sounds better but also looks better. Had the new dash piece custom painted to match as well. I didn't get a paint code because my painter custom matched to the other trim pieces but I saw a newer Kia at his shop that was a very close match. You could probably grab that paint code and it would be pretty close.

IMG_4918-XL.jpg


IMG_4919-XL.jpg
 
gm350reratliff said:
Good bye and good riddance Entune!

Installed this Alpine ILX-107 with the Maestro interface in the 5th gen over the weekend. So nice having something in there that not only works better and sounds better but also looks better. Had the new dash piece custom painted to match as well. I didn't get a paint code because my painter custom matched to the other trim pieces but I saw a newer Kia at his shop that was a very close match. You could probably grab that paint code and it would be pretty close.

IMG_4918-XL.jpg


IMG_4919-XL.jpg
Click to expand...

I went through my local shop and stayed with OEM Audio Plus. They've had great reviews. I'll let the group know more once they're installed in 2 weeks. The demo I heard was phenomenal.
 
Thought I could ask this question here for those of you that installed the Fix-86. I am getting a strange intermittent whine.

Swapped out an Audio Control LC7i for the JL Fix 86. Wanted to get a flatter signal and now that the Tun software works with the fix, it gives me a little more control. This feeds a JL RD-400 amp.

Sounds great with one catch. After turning the radio to a lower volume, I get a strange whine, like the system is discharging, lasting about 10-30 seconds and then disappears. Not engine whine, revving the engine has no effect, do not think it is a ground issue. Just when I go from a louder volume back down to a low range. Also notice if I take a call. Sometimes it occurs, sometimes it doesn't.

I know it is recommended that you use the DRC-200 for master volume control with the head set at 75% where you initially tuned the system, but I was hoping to avoid that.

Any thoughts?
 
I just recently replaced speakers in my 4runner. I have all of the speakers powered by an amp with an extra channel for when I make the decision to install a sub. I made sure to keep my factory head unit in and, when I asked the guy who did the installation, he told me that there shouldn’t be a loss in power to the speakers as long as the tuning in the amp is done correctly. I went with the Memphis M Class speakers and I’ve noticed a huge difference in sound clarity and quality.
 
Just ordered a Kenwood Excelon DNX695S for the 2012 LTD, plus all the kit to access Maestro and keep steering wheel controls, iPhone support, iPOD connection, etc.

My stock HU with outdated Nav and XM that won't work is getting the boot.
 
Posting my thread here to hopefully get some more input: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/engines-suspension-wheels-tires-audio-accessories/273159-am-i-getting-run-around-audio-install.html#post3292850

Bottom line:
Installed taco tunes 5channel amp, recurve, components and door speakers for $500

Was a bit turned off by the shop but to my better judgement had them go ahead anyway. List of some red flags
-They didn’t install the sound deadening like I had wanted(didn’t pay anything but still). They claimed my doors are insulated already and didn’t need it
-originally quoted me $350 then called and said $500 after realizing there were hatch speakers to be installed
-mounted my amp under the drivers seat using Velcro instead of drilling
-didn’t mount or connect the sub remote, just left the cable under the steering wheel to let me decide

Everything sounded great when I first got it. Speakers were a bit too bright but still loud which I liked.

Issues that I didn’t notice when I first picked up: alternator whine and a static noise when powering on the car.

I brought it back in the following weekend for them to look at. The whine was much better but still there. Just very faint. Same with the static. However, I noticed that my speakers sound like they aren’t as loud as they were prior. Where I couldn’t turn it past halfway basically with it being TOO loud, now I’m getting to 75-80% range on volume. Did they just turn down the gains or something? I’m a noob to this.

Overall I’m somewhat bummed. Just looking to do some damage control. I understand I’ll probably have to sink some more money into this. I should’ve paid the extra $300 to go to the high end shop but I was an idiot.... and here we are.

Thoughts? Would love some input good and bad
 
Don't know about the rest, but yes, turning down the gain is common in attempting to get rid of whine. The real question is why is the whine there and why they didn't set it up properly prior to delivery.
If the gains are matched properly and whine is present, you generally have a poor install, poor source, or a cheap amp.
 
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