Kraze
New member
I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on an Aussie for up front, but I have a few questions/concerns before I do.
To start off, here's what I've found so far from my research.
1. I shouldn't even be able to notice a difference in 2wd, besides the fact that my front driveshaft will be spinning now.
2. I don't really drive on snow/ice covered roads, but if I do, I already did the "2wd low mod" so I can always just disable the ADD and only have the driver side front tire powered, which could help (kind of like how guys with manual hubs and spools will just lock in one front hub for snow). Or I could just leave it in 2wd unless I need to get moving from a stop. Either way, snow and ice aren't much of a concern.
3. Turning ability on high traction surfaces like slick rock will definitely be affected. However, the "2wd low mod" comes into play again with that, and I can just flip that switch to fool the ADD and it will essentially "unlock" the front so I can make turns easier.
4. I'm fully aware that my 4runner will likely eat CVs for breakfast with the front locked and 35s. I don't plan to buy the expensive aftermarket CVs, I just plan to carry a couple spare stock ones. I don't think changing a CV out on the trail is the worst thing, and I think I'd prefer the CVs to be the weak point that breaks. At least they're easily changed out, versus something say inside the diff breaking. But once again, having the ADD on a switch will hopefully help me take it easy on the drivetrain whenever possible.
Now for my main concern. I found this post over on Tacoma World:
How much truth is there to what he's saying, specifically about the transfer case damage from the chain being driven without proper lubrication? That's the first and only time I've seen that mentioned since I've been looking into the Aussie's, so I'm trying to figure out if that's really a big concern or not.
As for my other questions:
1. Should I replace anything else while I have the diff off?
2. What parts should I have on hand just in case? Thrust washers? Gaskets? Anything?
3. What gear oil has everyone found to be the best for their lunchbox locker? I've read mixed reviews about Redline Heavy Shockproof, but have seen a lot of people recommend plain old 85w140.
To start off, here's what I've found so far from my research.
1. I shouldn't even be able to notice a difference in 2wd, besides the fact that my front driveshaft will be spinning now.
2. I don't really drive on snow/ice covered roads, but if I do, I already did the "2wd low mod" so I can always just disable the ADD and only have the driver side front tire powered, which could help (kind of like how guys with manual hubs and spools will just lock in one front hub for snow). Or I could just leave it in 2wd unless I need to get moving from a stop. Either way, snow and ice aren't much of a concern.
3. Turning ability on high traction surfaces like slick rock will definitely be affected. However, the "2wd low mod" comes into play again with that, and I can just flip that switch to fool the ADD and it will essentially "unlock" the front so I can make turns easier.
4. I'm fully aware that my 4runner will likely eat CVs for breakfast with the front locked and 35s. I don't plan to buy the expensive aftermarket CVs, I just plan to carry a couple spare stock ones. I don't think changing a CV out on the trail is the worst thing, and I think I'd prefer the CVs to be the weak point that breaks. At least they're easily changed out, versus something say inside the diff breaking. But once again, having the ADD on a switch will hopefully help me take it easy on the drivetrain whenever possible.
Now for my main concern. I found this post over on Tacoma World:
As for your question about the ADD and a mechanical locker. Yes, there are issues. Of course I won't leave it at that, I will explain it.
The ADD disconnects one side of the drive output (The right side) so the end result, with an open differential, is that the left CV shaft, while rotating, will simply spin the spider gears inside the carrier housing. This does nothing, as they are well lubricated. Now install a mechanical locker. Part of what a mechanical locker does is obviously to allow drive power to go to both front wheels. It does this by basically replacing the factory spider gears with a mechanical lock.
Why does this cause a problem in an ADD front differential?
Without spider gears being allowed to spin, the ENTIRE carrier on the inside turns. This in turn will spin the front drive shaft (ring gear will spin the pinion gear) which will then force-drive the chain in the transfer case. This will shortly cause damage to the transfer case itself as when it is in 2wd, the system does not lubricate properly if the drives haft is force spun.
So no, you should not install a mechanical locker in an ADD front differential.
How much truth is there to what he's saying, specifically about the transfer case damage from the chain being driven without proper lubrication? That's the first and only time I've seen that mentioned since I've been looking into the Aussie's, so I'm trying to figure out if that's really a big concern or not.
As for my other questions:
1. Should I replace anything else while I have the diff off?
2. What parts should I have on hand just in case? Thrust washers? Gaskets? Anything?
3. What gear oil has everyone found to be the best for their lunchbox locker? I've read mixed reviews about Redline Heavy Shockproof, but have seen a lot of people recommend plain old 85w140.