Aussie locker in front diff

Kraze

New member
I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on an Aussie for up front, but I have a few questions/concerns before I do.

To start off, here's what I've found so far from my research.

1. I shouldn't even be able to notice a difference in 2wd, besides the fact that my front driveshaft will be spinning now.

2. I don't really drive on snow/ice covered roads, but if I do, I already did the "2wd low mod" so I can always just disable the ADD and only have the driver side front tire powered, which could help (kind of like how guys with manual hubs and spools will just lock in one front hub for snow). Or I could just leave it in 2wd unless I need to get moving from a stop. Either way, snow and ice aren't much of a concern.

3. Turning ability on high traction surfaces like slick rock will definitely be affected. However, the "2wd low mod" comes into play again with that, and I can just flip that switch to fool the ADD and it will essentially "unlock" the front so I can make turns easier.

4. I'm fully aware that my 4runner will likely eat CVs for breakfast with the front locked and 35s. I don't plan to buy the expensive aftermarket CVs, I just plan to carry a couple spare stock ones. I don't think changing a CV out on the trail is the worst thing, and I think I'd prefer the CVs to be the weak point that breaks. At least they're easily changed out, versus something say inside the diff breaking. But once again, having the ADD on a switch will hopefully help me take it easy on the drivetrain whenever possible.

Now for my main concern. I found this post over on Tacoma World:

As for your question about the ADD and a mechanical locker. Yes, there are issues. Of course I won't leave it at that, I will explain it.

The ADD disconnects one side of the drive output (The right side) so the end result, with an open differential, is that the left CV shaft, while rotating, will simply spin the spider gears inside the carrier housing. This does nothing, as they are well lubricated. Now install a mechanical locker. Part of what a mechanical locker does is obviously to allow drive power to go to both front wheels. It does this by basically replacing the factory spider gears with a mechanical lock.

Why does this cause a problem in an ADD front differential?

Without spider gears being allowed to spin, the ENTIRE carrier on the inside turns. This in turn will spin the front drive shaft (ring gear will spin the pinion gear) which will then force-drive the chain in the transfer case. This will shortly cause damage to the transfer case itself as when it is in 2wd, the system does not lubricate properly if the drives haft is force spun.

So no, you should not install a mechanical locker in an ADD front differential.

How much truth is there to what he's saying, specifically about the transfer case damage from the chain being driven without proper lubrication? That's the first and only time I've seen that mentioned since I've been looking into the Aussie's, so I'm trying to figure out if that's really a big concern or not.

As for my other questions:

1. Should I replace anything else while I have the diff off?

2. What parts should I have on hand just in case? Thrust washers? Gaskets? Anything?

3. What gear oil has everyone found to be the best for their lunchbox locker? I've read mixed reviews about Redline Heavy Shockproof, but have seen a lot of people recommend plain old 85w140.
 
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Dude,

I see how you are. We talk about how sweet it would be to have the locker in the front also when we were camping. Now you have to go out and do it. I swear. Some people around hear. Now what am I to dream about when you already have it all.

Blue
 
I'm the one that's getting screwed here. I went wheeling with the big boys one too many times, now my 4runner is going to feel inadequate until I have dual cases, locked front and rear, supercharged, SAS'd, sitting on 37's haha.
 
That statement about the tcase is garbage. The chain is submerged in oil.... and the tcase has a mechanical oil pump in it for the planetaries. I dont know how people can come up with this garbage. I mean you could really go all out and say perhaps the tcase will wear the bearings out faster since they are spinning now.

But to say that a transfercase will run out of oil and meltdown then explode because you put a front locker in it and there are thousands of people out there without this problem.... SMH.

You shouldnt need anything for the install. except a tube of grey RTV. and get the right Etorx socket for the bolts on the front diff. Maybe some red locktite since you will need to pop off that ring gear to get the carrier cross pin out. THose bolts need to have lock tite when they go back on. As for oil. Run whatever you want. It wont ratchet much so its not like the rear. I get whatever is the absolute cheapest 80ish-90ish oil.

I have an aussie in my front diff. its never been an issue.
 
I'm the one that's getting screwed here. I went wheeling with the big boys one too many times, now my 4runner is going to feel inadequate until I have dual cases, locked front and rear, supercharged, SAS'd, sitting on 37's haha.


OH I get it now. You mean like this right?

2000 Toyota 4runner : Addicted Offroad is a full service Parts, Sales, and Fabrication company offering offroad parts for all makes and models, Addicted Offroad

I hear you brother. This is my dream set up as well but in white.

Blue

:spider:
 
OH I get it now. You mean like this right?

2000 Toyota 4runner : Addicted Offroad is a full service Parts, Sales, and Fabrication company offering offroad parts for all makes and models, Addicted Offroad

I hear you brother. This is my dream set up as well but in white.

Blue

:spider:

Haha yep, pretty much exactly like that one. Except with a manual and a 4.7 low for the second t-case. And probably some Hutchinson bead locks like Kurtis has.

Such a baller move. :whoo: Cant wait to see what kind of shit you get into now.

Just got my shipping info, looks like it will be here on January 7th. I'll hopefully get it installed that weekend, and then we can all find out just what I can get into the next weekend :bigok:
 
I'm down to help with the install. As long as you convince me not to buy one :P

I think there's a very good argument for why you should get one. If I go out and get stuck somewhere in the San Diego area that I was only able to access because I'm locked front and rear, who am I going to call to come get me out? I can't think of a place where that scenario would happen, but that's not the point here!

I'll definitely hit you up if I install it here though. The install isn't supposed to be that hard, but I might take it up to my mechanic friend in the high desert since he has all the tools and knowledge to help with it. We'll see.
 
Not trying to say anyone here is wrong, just curious about this. Is there any possible way that higher speeds would contribute to the tcase wearing out or failing? I mean, even in 4wd high you're supposed to limit your speed to 45 (I think?), so maybe oiling can become an issue at freeway speeds.

I have done zero research on this, just my initial thoughts. For all I know, tons of people have put these in their runners. I also have no idea what your goal is with your 4runner either...

Front lockers are badass, they really let you get into some s#!t. I have an arb in the front of my toyota pickup.
 
Not trying to say anyone here is wrong, just curious about this. Is there any possible way that higher speeds would contribute to the tcase wearing out or failing? I mean, even in 4wd high you're supposed to limit your speed to 45 (I think?), so maybe oiling can become an issue at freeway speeds.

I have done zero research on this, just my initial thoughts. For all I know, tons of people have put these in their runners. I also have no idea what your goal is with your 4runner either...

Front lockers are badass, they really let you get into some s#!t. I have an arb in the front of my toyota pickup.

I can't comment on the technical parts of your questions, but here's something straight from the owners manual about the bolded part:

Maximum allowable speeds
To get on a highway or to pass slower traffic,
maximum acceleration may be necessary.
Make sure you observe the following
maximum allowable speeds in each gear:

Four-wheel drive models

5VZ-FE engine

gear km/h (mph)

“H2” and “H4” | “L4”
1 48 (29) | 18 (11)
2 89 (55) | 34 (21)
3 127 (79) | 49 (31)
4 165 (102) | 64 (39)

So the limit for how fast you can go in 4 high is the same as 2 high.
 
I can't comment on the technical parts of your questions, but here's something straight from the owners manual about the bolded part:

Maximum allowable speeds
To get on a highway or to pass slower traffic,
maximum acceleration may be necessary.
Make sure you observe the following
maximum allowable speeds in each gear:

Four-wheel drive models

5VZ-FE engine

gear km/h (mph)

“H2” and “H4” | “L4”
1 48 (29) | 18 (11)
2 89 (55) | 34 (21)
3 127 (79) | 49 (31)
4 165 (102) | 64 (39)

So the limit for how fast you can go in 4 high is the same as 2 high.

Well that is excellent info to know. For some reason I remembered a speed limitation but the manual doesn't lie!

Hope the locker install goes smoothly, I've heard nothing but good things about aussie's.
 
Subscribed for your post-install impressions :D I have the 2-low mod and a spare front diff with yukon 4.88's just sitting on the work bench :o

As for gear oil, I have run plain-old 75w90 gear oil in an Aussie and it worked fine. Ran 85w140 in a lockright and had almost zero "lunchbox locker" noise, so I would go with the heavier oil just from personal experience.
 
Last edited:
I'll probably end up going with the 85w140 then. I'll make sure to give an update once everything is installed and I've had a chance to test it.
 
Also check out redline shockproof. Theres a handful of us running it on here with great results. Myself included.
 
I can't comment on the technical parts of your questions, but here's something straight from the owners manual about the bolded part:

Maximum allowable speeds
To get on a highway or to pass slower traffic,
maximum acceleration may be necessary.
Make sure you observe the following
maximum allowable speeds in each gear:

Four-wheel drive models

5VZ-FE engine

gear km/h (mph)

“H2” and “H4” | “L4”
1 48 (29) | 18 (11)
2 89 (55) | 34 (21)
3 127 (79) | 49 (31)
4 165 (102) | 64 (39)

So the limit for how fast you can go in 4 high is the same as 2 high.

I am so glad to hear this, since I regularly drive mine in 4H since Wyoming doesn't believe in PLOWING! :eek: Miss ya Shane!!
 
That statement about the tcase is garbage. The chain is submerged in oil.... and the tcase has a mechanical oil pump in it for the planetaries. I dont know how people can come up with this garbage. I mean you could really go all out and say perhaps the tcase will wear the bearings out faster since they are spinning now.

But to say that a transfercase will run out of oil and meltdown then explode because you put a front locker in it and there are thousands of people out there without this problem.... SMH.

You shouldnt need anything for the install. except a tube of grey RTV. and get the right Etorx socket for the bolts on the front diff. Maybe some red locktite since you will need to pop off that ring gear to get the carrier cross pin out. THose bolts need to have lock tite when they go back on. As for oil. Run whatever you want. It wont ratchet much so its not like the rear. I get whatever is the absolute cheapest 80ish-90ish oil.

I have an aussie in my front diff. its never been an issue.


Hey J-money, Does your front drive shaft spin when you are in 2wd?
 

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