Auto Tranny Kick Down Adjustment....

jnettrecker

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97 T4R Limited 4x4 w/ Automatic tranny. Is it possible to adjust the kick down point from OD lockup? I installed 265/75 tires the day I got the truck. Speedo is dead on with GPS all the way up to 75, haven't tested beyond there.

The problem is, When I am rolling along 65-70 with cruise one it kicks down on EVERY hill. I live near Dallas TX and the hills aren't that big. Seems like it is just out of adjustment or something. I don't mind if I drops 5mph going up the hill, I just get tired of the shifting. I used to be a motorcycle mechanic so I know my way around the toolbox but I have limited knowledge on vehicles.

Any help is appreciated!

me9ygy6u.jpg
 
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Yeah, just loosen the cable a bit. I think the manual says 1mm of the black button sticking out past the other rubber thingy. You surely are too tight, I did the same thing.
 
Yeah, just loosen the cable a bit. I think the manual says 1mm of the black button sticking out past the other rubber thingy. You surely are too tight, I did the same thing.

Yes. That's what I did too. Took me all day.

I had the same thing with my tires. If you just take it out of cruise control before the hill you can control it or you can turn o/d off wit cruise on and it won't keep shifting.
Then turn o/d back on at the top if the hill.
 
There is no kick down cable on the 4runner. Thus no adjustment.

If your traveling on hilly terrain, use the OD button.
 
IIRC the cable everyone refers to actually brings the hydraulics up to operating pressure. I would have to go back and check my research to be sure. I think the more you adjust it the quicker this pressure comes up. The FSM calls it the "Throttle Cable".
 
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So I'm confused. I see the cable, I even see the little rubber nub but the quandary is whether to adjust or not adjust, lol. I ended up running with O/D off as it was very hilly where I drove this weekend and my hand calculated mpg was only 14 mpg which royally stinks. On flat terrain I'm getting 17.5 mpg or so.

So what does the cable "really" do, and should I adjust it?
 
So I'm confused. I see the cable, I even see the little rubber nub but the quandary is whether to adjust or not adjust, lol. I ended up running with O/D off as it was very hilly where I drove this weekend and my hand calculated mpg was only 14 mpg which royally stinks. On flat terrain I'm getting 17.5 mpg or so.

So what does the cable "really" do, and should I adjust it?

The cable controls how hard or soft it engages the next upshift. The more the cable is pulled out the firmer the shift.


As for adjustment. Some people unhook it from the TB and pull the cable all the way out and zip tie it back. This is for firmer shifts all the time.

I would leave it alone as the cable was adjusted from the factory and that it really doesn't stretch. There is hardly any tension on it.
 
So how tough should it be to break the nuts loose on these cables?

I sprayed some penetrating oil on mine, waited a bit and started to apply a little force, but I didn't feel comfortable applying any more and the nuts weren't budging. I'm kind of fearful that I'll break the threaded "bolt" portion of the cables.

My Runner is running pretty well as it is, although there is a very slight slack in the kickdown and throttle cables. Is the cable adjustment worth the risk of having to replace them?
 
97 T4R Limited 4x4 w/ Automatic tranny. Is it possible to adjust the kick down point from OD lockup? I installed 265/75 tires the day I got the truck. Speedo is dead on with GPS all the way up to 75, haven't tested beyond there.

The problem is, When I am rolling along 65-70 with cruise one it kicks down on EVERY hill. I live near Dallas TX and the hills aren't that big. Seems like it is just out of adjustment or something. I don't mind if I drops 5mph going up the hill, I just get tired of the shifting. I used to be a motorcycle mechanic so I know my way around the toolbox but I have limited knowledge on vehicles.

Any help is appreciated!

me9ygy6u.jpg

Make sure the ECT switch is in normal vs. power position and/or de-select overdrive. Otherwise it shifts when the water temperature sensor, throttle position switch, (non-adjustable) and the number 2 transmission speed sensor (non-adjustable) agree that a shift is needed.
 
So how tough should it be to break the nuts loose on these cables?

I sprayed some penetrating oil on mine, waited a bit and started to apply a little force, but I didn't feel comfortable applying any more and the nuts weren't budging. I'm kind of fearful that I'll break the threaded "bolt" portion of the cables.

My Runner is running pretty well as it is, although there is a very slight slack in the kickdown and throttle cables. Is the cable adjustment worth the risk of having to replace them?

Just make sure you are rotating them the right way! The ones on the right should be rotated towards you to loosen, the ones on the left should be rotated away from you. They will come loose.

And yes, removing the slack is a good thing. You throttle will be more responsive too.
 

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