Auto Window Problem, "normalizing" doesn't help

[gaterose]

I posted this in another thread a while back and never got a response. Another member asked me if I solved the problem earlier so I figured I'd try asking once more.

I'm having a problem with my AUTO window. My AUTO light blinks constantly when driving, but never blinks as it should when I follow the reset (normalizing or recalibration) instructions. I thought it was the LED, replaced the LED, didn't help (I know the LED wouldn't explain the auto function not working but I didn't think about the AUTO function at the time and only noticed the blinking light). So I found the reset instructions on here and tried that SEVERAL times but it never 'took'.

I finally bought a whole new switch assembly, same thing. Tried following the reset after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, the reset worked successfully for the sunroof and rear window, but I can't seem to do anything with the drivers window. Any ideas what it could be? I know that the switch worked properly when I first bought the car and quit working properly after the first time I disconnected the battery.

I've had the problem for about 4 or 5 months now; I'm not sure about the driver window (since I've never gotten it to reset), but I know the rear window and moonroof can be reset while driving so I still occasionally try resetting the switch while I'm going down the road or stuck in traffic but to no avail.

 

[chaz]

some say that the window only needs to go half way down to reset, but someone suggested letting it go all the way down, is it possible its not going down all the way? some also say wait 1 second others 4 seconds until light stop blinking.

 

[gaterose]

some say that the window only needs to go half way down to reset, but someone suggested letting it go all the way down.

I'm not sure which it should be but I'm pretty sure I've done both in the past. I know I usually roll it all the way down until it stops then wait ~1s and go back up then hold the button for ~1s. I have experimented with A LOT of different timing though from immediately going back up as soon its down (or visa versa) to holding the button down for about 5s after its stopped moving up or down.

I just went and tried halfway though and that doesn't help either. As I said before there are times at drive-thrus, traffic lights, waiting on someone, etc. over the last 4 months that I have tried and tried with different timing.

I've never had a problem resetting the back window or sunroof, 1st try every time. I even fixed those two accidentally the first time I disconnected the battery before I knew this process existed.

edit: I didn't see your question about could it be possible it isn't going down, but I guess it could be possible but I can't think of why it wouldn't. It definitely goes down below the weatherstripping and appears to be all the way down.

 

[chaz]

when u hold the button,no matter how long, does the light stop blinking at all?

 

[gaterose]

when u hold the button,no matter how long, does the light stop blinking at all?

Yes, but I can't remember whether it stays steady on or goes off. Its daytime now & I can't see the light so I can't check but I am absolutely certain that it does not blink when I use the button.

 

[gaterose]

Bump for a two year old thread...

Still have the problem, looking for new input.

 

[<<<<]

Just got new battery and had to initiate mine yesterday. This from user manual of 2004 worked for me:

1. Shut off the engine
2. Leave the key in ACC position (dashboard lights stay on)
3. Lower glass HALF way
4. Raise the glass all way up while KEEP HOLDING switch for about 1 second
5. Test. All should work (Auto and Manual option)

GL

 

[gaterose]

Thanks for trying but that's essentially the same thing I said I did here

... So I found the reset instructions on here and tried that SEVERAL times but it never 'took'...

And the window does not function when the key is set to ACC, all other windows and the radio function fine but the driver's window does nothing when the key is in ACC. I assume that it has something to do with the window not resetting.

 

[<<<<]

Can't help you then. Take it to the dealer.

 

[dadigab]

Are you saying all other windows work with switch set at ACC but drivers window doesnt? Man I really wish I could see it. I know some of the original auto windows had limit switches mounted on windows tracks. I doubt 4runners have physical switch but they may have a internal one in the motor. Which maybe out of sync. I worked on a pontiac mini van with similar problem after crash. I had to disconnect motor from lift arms and cycle motor a couple times then reconnect. Not saying this is your fix but ... Please respond to question at top of post. I will open up my door and look at window motor and lift mechanism this weekend I'll see if I can help.

 

[gaterose]

<<<< I would take it to the dealer, but I'm sure they'd charge out the @$$ and not be able to give me a simple answer so I'd rather just deal with it than do that. Just thought I'd bump the thread to see if I could get new insight.

dadigab
That's really awesome of you to offer that. Yes that's correct, when the key is set to ACC the driver's window won't move even though the other windows will go up and down and the radio is still on.

I will probably actually try to open it and check into that myself tomorrow if I have time but I don't really know what to look for in there, other than obstructions in the track. Let me know if you'd like some pics if you don't tear into the door yourself.

I may also try cycling the motor as you said.

 

[riceandpho]

did u make sure to push the switch all the way down? theres the first click, and then the second click. first click is the one u tap, the second one is the one you hold.

 

[BURNINGAIR]

Try looking the problem up on glassbytes.com. Thats where autoglass pro's go when they run into WTF problems...but if i remember correctly you can reset it by unpluging the regulator motor while the truck is on. Hope this helps

 

[BURNINGAIR]

Or if it has the pressure release safety(rolls back down if it encounters over 2lbs of pressure) then while rolling it up, push down on the glass before 1/3 way up untill it goes back down. Let it retract all the way while still holding the button up. Release and roll all the way up within 3 sec.

 

[dadigab]

Gaterose

its odd that the window doesn't work on ACC. None of mine work on ACC I must have switch at the "on" position. I don't know if that is a difference of model years. Either way its a clue that your drivers window doesn't work on ACC when others do but I wonder if the other are supposed to work when on ACC or not (for your year 4R) if others could chime in this would help. Don't try to cycle motor just yet some car don't like it.
I have worked inside hundreds of doors but most Toyota's go really smooth. But 4runners just don't come into our shops. 4Runner owners must be good drivers:trophy:! So really not familiar with inner workings of 4R window. But not being able to actually see yours it will be challenging. In about an hour I will be going into my door I have a rattle that's been bug me, so I have other reasons to open up door.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

LoL its funny Dadigab mentions not seeing the inside of a 4Runner door panel, I can't remember the last time I took off a 4Runner door panel, let alone my own! Toyotas are pretty straight forward, but I don't remember our window regulator set-up.

I am seriously wondering if there is some sort of issue in the window motor/regulator that is causing an inability of the system to sync properly. I think the "Anti-Jam" feature might be the culprit here, for whatever reason it is not able to learn the positions it needs. Have you tried testing to see if it still works with like a Popsicle stick or something?

At this point I would remove the panel, possibly remove the motor and play with it some and see if its jamming or something, then check the movement of the regulator, maybe even lube it while you're there.

I seriously believe that the issue is going to be in the "drivetrain" of the window system at this point.

 

[gaterose]

I just removed the door panel to check for obstructions in the track, for some reason I got the idea in my head this morning that maybe my component speaker setup was interfering with the track.

However after opening the door I quickly realized that couldn't be the problem. There does not appear to be anything obstructing. I didn't have time to fiddle with any more stuff (popping the panel off only takes 1-2 minutes) so i'll try that later or tomorrow.


Also I realized that none of the windows function on ACC, the reason they worked last night was because I was in the 4R (with the door closed) and had turned it on and then to ACC. So whatever the function is that keeps some accessories going until you open the doors was why the radio and other windows were still operating (NOT being set to ACC). Still doesn't explain why the driver's window doesn't work then, but thought I should clarify.

 

[dadigab]

I'm going to agree with BlackWorksInc to some extent, still find it odd that window doesn't work with switch at "ACC" but the others do. I'm hung up on that for some reason. It might be "anti jam feature" though. It is very difficult to see window regulator without removing it I think I will draw line there.

However, one of the reasons why we don't have need to open up door is great engineering by Toyota. This was evident today pulling off panel. The one thing that really got my attention is the sliding lock wiring connector on window switch(see first set pictures). First pic is connector unlocked, second pic is locked.

 

[dadigab]

I just did see your last post I would say it in the motor. Does drivers window work at all?

 

[gaterose]

Yeah it works totally fine for the most part. It's just that auto not functioning, auto light blinking, and the window not working when truck is killed.