???.. Axle Swap, front diff and Manual Hubs

[mtbfish]

OK, not that experienced, but going to dive in.

95, 22RE, manual, ADD. I picked up a rear end from a V6 Auto, (4.88 gears) along with the matching front diff. I Also got some AISIN Manual hubs, and what to eliminate the ADD.

I want to do things in sequence, so that if something stumps me, I know what I touched last so I can address it.

1- Can I install the front Diff alone, after eliminating the ADD system? Will it be a straight in swap and will having 4.11 gears in the back and 4.88 in the front be a problem as long as I keep it in 2WD?

2- Can I install the Manual Hubs in the front at any time as long as I keep it in 2WD until all the conversion is completed. By any time, I mean even before the front diff gets swapped in?

3- will the rear end drum to drum, be a straight in swap, with all the mounting hardware in the same place?

Anyone who has done this and want to share tips and so, feel free to comment..
Thanks

 

[Hyde802]

1- Can I install the front Diff alone, after eliminating the ADD system? Will it be a straight in swap and will having 4.11 gears in the back and 4.88 in the front be a problem as long as I keep it in 2WD?

Swap the diff, non add axle tube at one, do the manual hubs either at the same time or before. Its not too hard of a swap. Download one of the factory service manuals in the top of the classics section, it will tell you how to do it. Or do hubs first, then the diff/axle tube. Keep it in 2wd till your gear ratios match.

2- Can I install the Manual Hubs in the front at any time as long as I keep it in 2WD until all the conversion is completed. By any time, I mean even before the front diff gets swapped in?

Install them whenever, Its a simple swap. You can still use your 4wd too. If you want 4wd, just lock them in. Your ADD will lock the slide collar in the axle tube, and the manual hubs will locked at the wheel (when you turn them). When you want 2wd, the add will unlock the slide collar and the manual hubs will unlock it at the wheel. Leaving the hubs locked all the time is the same as the add drive flanges. .

3- will the rear end drum to drum, be a straight in swap, with all the mounting hardware in the same place?

What year is the donor axle out of? If its a 2nd gen, then it will fit. You can swap the whole axle or just the 3rd.

Anyone who has done this and want to share tips and so, feel free to comment..
Thanks

Good luck man! Diving in is the best way to learn! Did you count the teeth on your spare diffs? How do you know they are 4.88s?

 

[mtbfish]

Good luck man! Diving in is the best way to learn! Did you count the teeth on your spare diffs? How do you know they are 4.88s?

So I made some assumptions, that the equipment from the doner was original. The front and back diffs came from the same truck, (93 t4r) I confirmed via the codes on the door it was a 4.88 (G144). My existing code is a G292, I interpreted this to be I have a 4.11 gears w/2 pinions and the doner has 4.88s with 4 pinions. I also looked at the read diff and saw the 4 ribs on the casing as opposed to the 3, I think I read that somewhere... Not sure about the front diff, is there a way to tell from the outside?

Thanks for the feedback!!!

 

[crash813]

Yes, you can run different gears as long as you don't put it in 4wd.

Removing ADD is a two part process, replacing hubs and either replacing axles or permanently engaging the ADD fork. If you fix the axles but not the hubs, then you will not only turn the tires and axles, but now the diff and driveline. Still doesn't hurt anything, just gas mileage and power, if left in 2wd. If you do the hubs first and leave them 'Free', you can do anything you want with the drivetrain without any issue.

Personally, its just easier to do it all at once instead of pulling the crap 2 or 3 times. It gets old real fast.

Rear axles should be a straight swap, just make sure if both have the speed sensor. Not sure when it was added but my '89 didn't have one but my 4.88 donor did. If yours has one, make sure the new one had one too.

 

[Hyde802]

So I made some assumptions, that the equipment from the doner was original. The front and back diffs came from the same truck, (93 t4r) I confirmed via the codes on the door it was a 4.88 (G144). My existing code is a G292, I interpreted this to be I have a 4.11 gears w/2 pinions and the doner has 4.88s with 4 pinions. I also looked at the read diff and saw the 4 ribs on the casing as opposed to the 3, I think I read that somewhere... Not sure about the front diff, is there a way to tell from the outside?

Thanks for the feedback!!!

Thats perfect, just making sure you wern't assuming all v6 autos had 4.88s.

4 ribs vs 3 just means v6 vs 4cyl.