Back passenger brake problem

[snowman340]

For the past 2 years my back passenger brake has been killing rotors. I get about 3 months out of a cheap set of rotors before they warped really bad. It always smells like burn rubber or brakes from that wheel well. So I have replaced the calipers, rotors and pads ( Power stop slotted this time) and I got about 9 months out of them before the back passenger side started to turn blue. Well some blue lines in the rotor. I have jacked the 4runner up and had a friend push and release the brakes well I spun them. They grabbed and released fine so then I did it with the vehicle running and could not see or hear them dragging. I checked the run out when I installed the power stops and it was .002 and right no the money when I checked the axle.

Could the master cylinder be doing this?
Is there still a chance my lines are bad if they seem to release fine?

Hopping you guys might have a idea before I send it to a shop and pay some big bucks then again maybe I should have done that from the start.

Thanks

 

[Mike07SE]

I think almost all of the replies here will say that it is a frozen caliper piston.

Not uncommon.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[Bossman]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/57869-frozen-calipers-how-many-others-had-problem.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/119371-infamous-frozed-up-brake-caliper.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/87184-calipers-frozen-you-bet.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/215061-rear-brake-caliper-frozen.html

 

[snowman340]

I thought that also but I put a new one and after switching to the power stop pads and rotors I checked it and it moves free. I can push it in with my hand

 

[Supersonic]

Some blockage in the brake line? Disclaimer, I just started learning about this condition as I am going to change rotors, calipers and pads soon.

There is a way to test, I think it is when the bleeder is opened and the brake is pressed, observe how the fluid come out, one result is slow, the other is spray. Not sure, but I think the spray means back pressure, you'll have to study/search the issue, I'm not able to recall the exact details.

 

[nevada]

For the past 2 years my back passenger brake has been killing rotors. I get about 3 months out of a cheap set of rotors before they warped really bad. It always smells like burn rubber or brakes from that wheel well. So I have replaced the calipers, rotors and pads ( Power stop slotted this time) and I got about 9 months out of them before the back passenger side started to turn blue. Well some blue lines in the rotor. I have jacked the 4runner up and had a friend push and release the brakes well I spun them. They grabbed and released fine so then I did it with the vehicle running and could not see or hear them dragging. I checked the run out when I installed the power stops and it was .002 and right no the money when I checked the axle.

Could the master cylinder be doing this?
Is there still a chance my lines are bad if they seem to release fine?

Hopping you guys might have a idea before I send it to a shop and pay some big bucks then again maybe I should have done that from the start.

Thanks

I would suspect the hose is collapsed internally. it will act as a one way valve, and hold pressure at the caliper. it often times will take several pedal applications before there is enough pressure to matter. which is why you don't notice it when you check it while parked.

 

[TechWrench]

Even though you have replaced the calipers, you probably re-used the mounting plate for the rotor. It is a known problem that the notches that the pads fit into have a tendency to build up rust under the spring clips that the pads rest on. This rust build up will cause the springs to press against the tabs on the pads, and prevent them from sliding in and out as they should. This will cause the pads to fail to retract when the caliper pressure is released. Remove the calipers, pads, and these spring clips, and using a small file, clean all the rust from these notches. Once clean, apply a light coating of anti-seize before re-installing the clips. When re-installing the pads, they should easily snap into place, and be able to move freely in and out on the clips. As long as the caliper can slide easily back and forth on the mounting pins, your brake problem should be solved.

 

[snowman340]

Even though you have replaced the calipers, you probably re-used the mounting plate for the rotor. It is a known problem that the notches that the pads fit into have a tendency to build up rust under the spring clips that the pads rest on. This rust build up will cause the springs to press against the tabs on the pads, and prevent them from sliding in and out as they should. This will cause the pads to fail to retract when the caliper pressure is released. Remove the calipers, pads, and these spring clips, and using a small file, clean all the rust from these notches. Once clean, apply a light coating of anti-seize before re-installing the clips. When re-installing the pads, they should easily snap into place, and be able to move freely in and out on the clips. As long as the caliper can slide easily back and forth on the mounting pins, your break problem should be solved.

I think you are right. It looks like the pad is jamming. I cleaned everything up last night. I took it for a test drive yesterday and it felt like new. Hopefully it stays that way. I also bleed the brakes and got all the old fluid out.
Thanks for the help.