Bad Luck's Boring Build Biography
- Thread starter Bad Luck
- Start date
phattyduck
Elite Member
Ugh! The only consolation is that Desert Dune is the most popular color.
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
Good luck on the search!
-Charlie
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
Good luck on the search!
-Charlie
2/19/2022 201314 miles
-Removed Yakima roof rack rails (had to buy a replacement key to unlock it $35)
-Installed some OEM roof rack delete rails and cleaned the dirt/debris off the top. Added some silicone around the holes/threads for the roof rack rail fasteners. OEM roof rack delete rails $40 and silicone $10.
-Replaced the melted passenger inner tie rod boot that I melted last alignment. Set toe again. Moog K100183 $15
-Ordered/cut 2 replacement keys from Toyota dealership next door. 90999-00185 $15
-Replaced defrost 90010-01041 $5 and rear window 90010-01042 $5 bulbs. Replaced HVAC unit bulbs 90010-05152 $20. The off brand ac switch I bought does not want to go on there at all. I think I'll have to order OEM for that.
I had to reheat the passenger locknut again in order to get it to loosen. I made sure that I cooled it off this time before I tried installing the new inner tie rod boot! Luckily the Moog K100183 comes with 2 boots so I had 2 chances to get one of them on without melting. Luckily I only needed one shot!
Ordered/cut 2 replacement keys at the Toyota dealership next door 90999-00185. That part number is for a plastic handled key without the transponder chip. I'm not a fan of the all metal keys. The dealership cut the keys off the VIN and they were close, but the tumbler key closest to the tip was out instead of in and wouldn't work in the ignition but would work in the door. They traced my current key onto the two new keys and now I have 3 working ignition keys. I might try taking one of the keys and modifying it to only work in the door and hide it on the vehicle somewhere in case I lock myself out.
I drove an hour each way a few weeks ago to the closest Yakima dealer that had a full set of keys in order to buy the key I needed to unlock the Yakima roof bars to remove them. I'm sure they would have been functional, but to me they were just loud. All the wind noise they made above 45 mph was enough to make me think I had a bad wheel bearing when I was driving it after I got the exhaust semi fixed. Talk about loud! I went ahead and remove the OEM roof rack rails and support bars and installed some OEM roof rack delete rails making sure to silicone the retainer holes/threads to prevent water leaks. I had to track down a leak from there on my last 4Runner which was not fun to say the least. There's some color fading and hard lines left from the OEM roof rack rails/supports, but I'm not tall enough to see them all the time so I'm not gonna worry about it.
Took another look underneath at my current leaks and noticed that I have either a transmission output shaft seal leak or a transfer case input shaft seal leak. I'm leaning more towards it being the transmission side due to the "adventure" it had before I bought it.
I'm still debating buying a replacement transmission or trying to have the crack repaired. I suffer from "might as well" automotive condition where I want to replace things that may not technically need replacing because I'm already there. The longer it takes to get to where I'm at the more likely I am to preventatively replace a part.
-Removed Yakima roof rack rails (had to buy a replacement key to unlock it $35)
-Installed some OEM roof rack delete rails and cleaned the dirt/debris off the top. Added some silicone around the holes/threads for the roof rack rail fasteners. OEM roof rack delete rails $40 and silicone $10.
-Replaced the melted passenger inner tie rod boot that I melted last alignment. Set toe again. Moog K100183 $15
-Ordered/cut 2 replacement keys from Toyota dealership next door. 90999-00185 $15
-Replaced defrost 90010-01041 $5 and rear window 90010-01042 $5 bulbs. Replaced HVAC unit bulbs 90010-05152 $20. The off brand ac switch I bought does not want to go on there at all. I think I'll have to order OEM for that.
I had to reheat the passenger locknut again in order to get it to loosen. I made sure that I cooled it off this time before I tried installing the new inner tie rod boot! Luckily the Moog K100183 comes with 2 boots so I had 2 chances to get one of them on without melting. Luckily I only needed one shot!
Ordered/cut 2 replacement keys at the Toyota dealership next door 90999-00185. That part number is for a plastic handled key without the transponder chip. I'm not a fan of the all metal keys. The dealership cut the keys off the VIN and they were close, but the tumbler key closest to the tip was out instead of in and wouldn't work in the ignition but would work in the door. They traced my current key onto the two new keys and now I have 3 working ignition keys. I might try taking one of the keys and modifying it to only work in the door and hide it on the vehicle somewhere in case I lock myself out.
I drove an hour each way a few weeks ago to the closest Yakima dealer that had a full set of keys in order to buy the key I needed to unlock the Yakima roof bars to remove them. I'm sure they would have been functional, but to me they were just loud. All the wind noise they made above 45 mph was enough to make me think I had a bad wheel bearing when I was driving it after I got the exhaust semi fixed. Talk about loud! I went ahead and remove the OEM roof rack rails and support bars and installed some OEM roof rack delete rails making sure to silicone the retainer holes/threads to prevent water leaks. I had to track down a leak from there on my last 4Runner which was not fun to say the least. There's some color fading and hard lines left from the OEM roof rack rails/supports, but I'm not tall enough to see them all the time so I'm not gonna worry about it.
Took another look underneath at my current leaks and noticed that I have either a transmission output shaft seal leak or a transfer case input shaft seal leak. I'm leaning more towards it being the transmission side due to the "adventure" it had before I bought it.
I'm still debating buying a replacement transmission or trying to have the crack repaired. I suffer from "might as well" automotive condition where I want to replace things that may not technically need replacing because I'm already there. The longer it takes to get to where I'm at the more likely I am to preventatively replace a part.
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superhomunculus
New member
Same thing happened to me about a year ago in my Corolla. A meth head in a stolen SUV wanted to share lanes going down the interstate at 75 MPH. Did about 8K in damage to my car. Some how I spun him around backwards and I managed to stay straight and slid into the ditch. Of course he drove off but I already had the vehicle and plates memorized. Cops caught him a little bit later. And a week after I got my car back, I hit a buck the size of a moose. I am really surprised the insurance in didn't total my car. LOL
3/9/2022 201707 miles
-Replaced left front fender with one from a junkyard in central Oklahoma $90
-Removed clutch pedal assembly, removed weird coil spring, replaced bushings (90386-13007 x2), reinstalled clutch pedal assembly and installed linear spring (90507-14030) $12
-Replaced AC button (84660-35030) $50
Finally got around to installing an ac button so I can finally have AC again. I tried a couple aftermarket clones but they just would not fit! Very frustrating! I ordered 2 because I put the first one somewhere I would remember. Clearly I didn't do a good job. I'm sure I'll find it one day. Moral of the story put 4Runner parts in the parts drawer and aftermarket ac buttons look close but aren't close enough.
Luckily I managed to find a fender in good shape in the right color for a good price. A couple minor scratches on the top of the fender, but I'll live with it considering an aftermarket fender was $150 and then to paint just the fender was $300 or $700 for the fender and to blend it into the hood and door. My brother was nice enough to pick it up from the dismantler in Oklahoma when he wasn't rock crawling in Clayton, OK.
I read a few posts regarding fender replacement and one of them claimed you could get both the fender bolts hiding behind the bumper with a ratchet wrench. I had enough clearance for one, but not enough for the other so off the bumper came. Replaced the fender and went to put the bumper back on. That's when I discovered that the passenger side of the bumper was pushed back and in about an inch in each direction. I used my rack and a ratchet strap to pull it a little closer, but didn't really move much. Just another excuse to get a nice offroad bumper to replace it with. I'm hoping [MENTION=63060]rickashay[/MENTION] will be willing to put me on the prototype test list for his sweet minimalist bumper!
-Replaced left front fender with one from a junkyard in central Oklahoma $90
-Removed clutch pedal assembly, removed weird coil spring, replaced bushings (90386-13007 x2), reinstalled clutch pedal assembly and installed linear spring (90507-14030) $12
-Replaced AC button (84660-35030) $50
Finally got around to installing an ac button so I can finally have AC again. I tried a couple aftermarket clones but they just would not fit! Very frustrating! I ordered 2 because I put the first one somewhere I would remember. Clearly I didn't do a good job. I'm sure I'll find it one day. Moral of the story put 4Runner parts in the parts drawer and aftermarket ac buttons look close but aren't close enough.
Luckily I managed to find a fender in good shape in the right color for a good price. A couple minor scratches on the top of the fender, but I'll live with it considering an aftermarket fender was $150 and then to paint just the fender was $300 or $700 for the fender and to blend it into the hood and door. My brother was nice enough to pick it up from the dismantler in Oklahoma when he wasn't rock crawling in Clayton, OK.
I read a few posts regarding fender replacement and one of them claimed you could get both the fender bolts hiding behind the bumper with a ratchet wrench. I had enough clearance for one, but not enough for the other so off the bumper came. Replaced the fender and went to put the bumper back on. That's when I discovered that the passenger side of the bumper was pushed back and in about an inch in each direction. I used my rack and a ratchet strap to pull it a little closer, but didn't really move much. Just another excuse to get a nice offroad bumper to replace it with. I'm hoping [MENTION=63060]rickashay[/MENTION] will be willing to put me on the prototype test list for his sweet minimalist bumper!
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Leak Update
-Valve cover and half moons leaking pretty bad. That's next on my to do list.
-Pretty confident the rear main is leaking as well from what I can see with an inspection mirror and boroscope.
-Transmission crack is leaking, but not enough to be concerned with yet
-Transfer case input or transmission output is leaking. I'm going to add uv dye to the transfer case and see which one it is.
-Exhaust is leaking somewhere between the first catalytic converter and the catalytic converter to crossover pipe flange. Not surprised considering how destructive the previous transfer case left the discussion.
-Valve cover and half moons leaking pretty bad. That's next on my to do list.
-Pretty confident the rear main is leaking as well from what I can see with an inspection mirror and boroscope.
-Transmission crack is leaking, but not enough to be concerned with yet
-Transfer case input or transmission output is leaking. I'm going to add uv dye to the transfer case and see which one it is.
-Exhaust is leaking somewhere between the first catalytic converter and the catalytic converter to crossover pipe flange. Not surprised considering how destructive the previous transfer case left the discussion.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Did you replace your oil seals on the rear main when you had the transmission out?
When we did the 1997 limited. Inteplaced all engine seals along with the transmission and transfer input and output seals. I left the driveshadt output seals alone because they are easy to deal with.
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When we did the 1997 limited. Inteplaced all engine seals along with the transmission and transfer input and output seals. I left the driveshadt output seals alone because they are easy to deal with.
Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
I haven’t had the transmission out. I removed what was left of the old transfer case and installed a used one. Everything was covered in oil so there was really no way to know what was leaking at the time. Still debating on trying to find someone to weld the case crack or buy a lower mileage used transmission. The current transmission has a noise coming from the input shaft bearing.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Oh...The housing took a hit when that old transfer case scattered. gotcha.
Jakeepoo3
New member
Yeah, light tan in the sun pewter in the shade. Looks slick. I just obtained a '99 qx4 to screw around with. It looks just like that.
The creaking was getting obnoxious lol I’m slowly whittling away at maintenance until I can figure out what to do about my transmission. Pretty sure my input shaft bearing is unhappy but at least my exhaust leak helps cover that noise up
octanejunkie
Elite Member
I'm about to do this same job. Why did you hate it?
I'll be there soon, too. My clutch squeals coming out of 1st about 20-25% of the time.
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3/21/2022 201941 miles
-Fixed exhaust leak and installed turn down after muffler $50
Finally had time to drop the 4Runner off at the exhaust shop to get a small exhaust leak fixed and a turn down put on the muffler. When the transfer case exploded it caused a lot of havoc, especially to the exhaust. With the help of a coworker we bent and twisted most of it back into place and welded it, but the exhaust had broken clean off after the muffler where it turns up so exhaust gases were directed to the body. Not a big deal, but I feel better with it pointed towards the road now.
-Fixed exhaust leak and installed turn down after muffler $50
Finally had time to drop the 4Runner off at the exhaust shop to get a small exhaust leak fixed and a turn down put on the muffler. When the transfer case exploded it caused a lot of havoc, especially to the exhaust. With the help of a coworker we bent and twisted most of it back into place and welded it, but the exhaust had broken clean off after the muffler where it turns up so exhaust gases were directed to the body. Not a big deal, but I feel better with it pointed towards the road now.
I also ordered a new transmission from Serra Toyota while they had their free shipping and 25% off discount going on. I wasn't looking for one, but stumbled across it while trying to look up fitment for a fellow member. 33030-34100 is an R150F for a 1st gen Tacoma with the 5VZ. Took some looking at several parts websites before determining it was indeed for a 4wd. Some parts websites listed it for an S Runner Tacoma which only came 2wd. Full retail $3003.73, online pricing $2441.88-$2654.21, pricing after extra discount and free shipping came to $1831.41 including taxes/fees/shipping. Considering Marlin Crawler wants $1400 for a rebuilt transmission plus you have to ship them your transmission (not included in pricing) and wait a claimed 3-4 months, which in Marling Crawler time should be doubled. R150F for 1996-04 3.4-liter | Marlin Crawler, Inc. The only other rebuilt R150F I could find was from yota1performance and they wanted $1865.35 (not including a $500 core charge). R150F Rebuilt Transmission for a 5VZ 3.4L - Yota1 Performance, Inc.
It arrived in a cardboard box of all things, and in keeping with my bad luck the back up light switch was broken off. Almost like a cardboard box with no packing was a bad idea or something... I started a claim with UPS, but probably won't have a resolution for at least a couple weeks.
I won't have a chance to replace the transmission for at least the next 3-4 months while I slowly try to finish my kitchen/dining room remodel. Currently on drywall coat #2 which I have to finish this weekend so that I can sand, then do a final coat, sand that, then a skim coat on everything, then sand that, then finally paint. Why did I think doing this on my own with no drywall/cabinet building experience was a good idea? Your guess is as good as mine. You can't know what you don't know. Which apparently was a lot!
I've also got a surprise planned for the transmission when it's time to go in. Still working out the finer details, but it's in the works!
It arrived in a cardboard box of all things, and in keeping with my bad luck the back up light switch was broken off. Almost like a cardboard box with no packing was a bad idea or something... I started a claim with UPS, but probably won't have a resolution for at least a couple weeks.
I won't have a chance to replace the transmission for at least the next 3-4 months while I slowly try to finish my kitchen/dining room remodel. Currently on drywall coat #2 which I have to finish this weekend so that I can sand, then do a final coat, sand that, then a skim coat on everything, then sand that, then finally paint. Why did I think doing this on my own with no drywall/cabinet building experience was a good idea? Your guess is as good as mine. You can't know what you don't know. Which apparently was a lot!
I've also got a surprise planned for the transmission when it's time to go in. Still working out the finer details, but it's in the works!
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Yep! I never got an explanation from the previous owner as to what happened, but my best guess is the transfer case ran low on fluid and overheated then seized while driving. Just a guess though and it would be hard to prove anything with so much of the original transfer case just gone. All that I got from the previous owner was that it was driving fine until the transfer case blew up.
brillo_76
Elite Member
I suspect that or chain issues. Jumping teeth or jamming. I haven't seen any transfer issues in any of mine all these years. I know heavy off roading can brake those along with other things..
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