Bad Plastidip job on my hood scoop - Two textured

[GogDog]

Ok...for practice, I went ahead and dipped the roof rails.

I used a bike plastic wheel remover to take the plastic shrouds off (fairly easy). There was red loctite on the threads but I had no problem unscrewing the bolts.

Prep ->

Finished product ->

So, I did use a hot tap water bath. I just stored the can in the bath in between coats (10 minutes each). I did 1 light initial coat, then 3 heavier coats. Gave me a nice smooth (though slightly orange peel-ish) finish!

I'll probably go ahead and do the front bumper valences for more practice. After driving around with my hood scoop painted black...I have decided that I do like the look and the no glare benefit.

Only thing that has got me a bit worried is that when doing the rails, I couldn't point the can directly down (spraying horizontally down), though I didn't notice a problem with that when I was spraying the hood before (which..you are spraying down for that). Maybe I didn't notice because I was doing light coats, and not holding the button down for long.

 

[GogDog]

Ok...another day, another plastidip job. Gaining experience!

Front valances this morning ->

Good old prep work.

First coat

Sweet!

Nice smooth finish...no tiger striping. Basically looks just like black plastic (unless you get super close)

 

[GogDog]

Those went well enough..that in the afternoon I decided to go ahead and do the back!

Honestly...hardest part is just taping around what you are going to paint. I did learn that I need to carefully dry the can after its hot water bath BEFORE I shake it...otherwise water will get on the part I'm plastidipping. Also, painting upside down isn't that bad ...you just have to paint 1-2' then shake the can upright, then do another 1-2'.

 

[GogDog]

And....I was on a roll so tonight...I redid the hood!

I could already tell my first attempt used too little of plastidip...it was too thin and would tear a bunch when trying to take off.

This time....1 initial coat, then 3 heavier coats, with the 4th coat being the thickest.

It turned out MUCH, MUCH better!

However....there was still striping. Whats odd...is that the front/rear valances show no sign of tiger striping. Maybe its because they are made of plastic instead of metal like the hood.

By luck....on the 4th coat, I did one pass diagonal, then a second pass criss crossing. My spacing was pretty good, so the final striping turned out to give the whole paint area a cool diamond striping...almost like it was meant to be like that.

You see it more or less depending on which way the light is hitting it. And of course, pictures don't do it justice. Here...it probably looks better in real life.

This time I did have 2-3 drops on it. When I was going heavy, after each stripe I would shake the can, but I didn't realize on the heavy passes that sometimes there was a buildup of plastidip on the nozzle. When I shook it, plastidip drops went everywhere. So, I then wiped the nozzle with a moist paper towel then shook it...away from my painting area. Lesson learned.

Anyway....I'll be keeping this on a while and report how it holds up. I work from home, and my car is garaged, so I'm not too worried about eventual paint mismatch from UV damage. (especially with a light silver paint).

Edit: OH...and thank you to everyone for all of your tips!

 

[philsey]

Looks great. I particularly like the black roof rails.

Congratulations - you are promoted to T4R PD Guru, and hereby directed to patiently answer all question from guys too lazy to read your thread.

 

[GogDog]

Thanks!

Ok, so after thinking about it....I think the real reason for the striping is because I'm holding the spray can at a slight angle when doing the hood. It makes perfect sense now...

The problem is that I cant hold the can perfectly parallel to the hood...because I'm painting "down" on the hood. Its the same problem with painting straight up...the can eventually shoots air instead of plastidip.

This would be ideal....but the spray can doesn't work like this ->

So I was holding the can at a ...lets say...110° instead of 90°. So naturally...it will be thicker closer to me than farther away..creating a line. It is also hard to paint parallel when reaching over to do the center of the hood...unless you had really long arms.

The only way to remedy it....is to use a paint gun where maintaining pressure isn't an issue no matter which way you hold the gun (as long as the paint reservoir is full enough). Or....take the hood off, set it up against a wall, and then you can paint while holding the can upright.

For me...I'm probably not going to redo it because I kind of like the line pattern that I created on the hood.

 

[baldrik78]

Those valences came out super clean.

 

[MI4MI]

Im always amazed when someone is able to pull of a perfect plastidip, I always seem to have too much texture and have to spend all this time peeling it off.

 

[ElectroBoy]

Whats up with all this love of plastidip?
It's just a temporary solution.
Your front and back trim looks great as black. Now, why not use paint for a more permanent smooth finish, and one that can hold up to abrasion, washing, and waxing?

 

[GogDog]

Whats up with all this love of plastidip?
It's just a temporary solution.
Your front and back trim looks great as black. Now, why not use paint for a more permanent smooth finish, and one that can hold up to abrasion, washing, and waxing?

The problem with paint...is that if you screw up...you can't redo it. And you have to be absolutely sure with your tape job otherwise an accidental overspray will mess you up. Plastidip is just the "no consequence" type of mod.

 

[WaldoJPL]

Thanks!

Ok, so after thinking about it....I think the real reason for the striping is because I'm holding the spray can at a slight angle when doing the hood. It makes perfect sense now...

The problem is that I cant hold the can perfectly parallel to the hood...because I'm painting "down" on the hood. Its the same problem with painting straight up...the can eventually shoots air instead of plastidip.

This would be ideal....but the spray can doesn't work like this ->

So I was holding the can at a ...lets say...110° instead of 90°. So naturally...it will be thicker closer to me than farther away..creating a line. It is also hard to paint parallel when reaching over to do the center of the hood...unless you had really long arms.

The only way to remedy it....is to use a paint gun where maintaining pressure isn't an issue no matter which way you hold the gun (as long as the paint reservoir is full enough). Or....take the hood off, set it up against a wall, and then you can paint while holding the can upright.

For me...I'm probably not going to redo it because I kind of like the line pattern that I created on the hood.

...It looks real good....almost like a carbon-fiber pattern!...:thumb:

 

[WaldoJPL]

Ok...for practice, I went ahead and dipped the roof rails.

I used a bike plastic wheel remover to take the plastic shrouds off (fairly easy). There was red loctite on the threads but I had no problem unscrewing the bolts.

Prep ->

Finished product ->

So, I did use a hot tap water bath. I just stored the can in the bath in between coats (10 minutes each). I did 1 light initial coat, then 3 heavier coats. Gave me a nice smooth (though slightly orange peel-ish) finish!

I'll probably go ahead and do the front bumper valences for more practice. After driving around with my hood scoop painted black...I have decided that I do like the look and the no glare benefit.

Only thing that has got me a bit worried is that when doing the rails, I couldn't point the can directly down (spraying horizontally down), though I didn't notice a problem with that when I was spraying the hood before (which..you are spraying down for that). Maybe I didn't notice because I was doing light coats, and not holding the button down for long.

...The rails look Great!....Nice work!...:bravo:

...Besides the red locktite....didja apply any sealer back on the holes/threads as you reinstalled the rails on the roof?.....This will be my 2nd change right after doing the emblems.....Thanks!......Cheers!...

 

[GogDog]

...The rails look Great!....Nice work!...:bravo:

...Besides the red locktite....didja apply any sealer back on the holes/threads as you reinstalled the rails on the roof?.....This will be my 2nd change right after doing the emblems.....Thanks!......Cheers!...

I didn't....don't know if I was supposed to or not.

 

[yardsale]

Open the hood when you spray it?

 

[GogDog]

Open the hood when you spray it?

You mean when spraying with plastidip? Like this? ->

Thats.....not a bad idea. I would be able to spray laterally and diagonally, though spraying vertically would still be the same problem ->

Also....spraying the hood was already awkward, and this would make it more so...but...could help eliminate lines. You might be able to do it by laying your body flat on the windshield facing the hood (your feet on the roof)...but...kind of awkward to get to that position.

Currently I've spent my energy/desire on the project so I don't have it in me to peel off the hood scoop and try again (especially since I have no guarantee that I won't get zebra lines again)....but...maybe someone else will try.

 

[Slowgoat]

You could unbolt the hood and hang it. Takes like 2 minutes to take the hood off. Then you’d be able to a get nice sweeping motion with no tiger striping.

Here is a video of the heating of the can, etc:



I’ve never plastidipoed before and this thread is super helpful!!

Found this video researching. Was going to do some soon. Thanks!

 

[WaldoJPL]

I didn't....don't know if I was supposed to or not.

...I haven't got that far yet...still workin on the emblems...so don't know if the bolts go down thru the roof skin?....

..If they do....seems it would be prudent to add some silicone around edge of the holes to seal them against moisture...but if anyone else has better info, please chime in on this...as the red locktite might also act as a thread sealant here?...:doh:

 

[GogDog]

...I haven't got that far yet...still workin on the emblems...so don't know if the bolts go down thru the roof skin?....

..If they do....seems it would be prudent to add some silicone around edge of the holes to seal them against moisture...but if anyone else has better info, please chime in on this...as the red locktite might also act as a thread sealant here?...:doh:

Yeah, I don't know. I didn't see any silicone sealant..and I didn't worry about it much since the 4runner was brand new.

 

[yardsale]

You mean when spraying with plastidip? Like this? ->

Thats.....not a bad idea. I would be able to spray laterally and diagonally, though spraying vertically would still be the same problem ->

Also....spraying the hood was already awkward, and this would make it more so...but...could help eliminate lines. You might be able to do it by laying your body flat on the windshield facing the hood (your feet on the roof)...but...kind of awkward to get to that position.

Currently I've spent my energy/desire on the project so I don't have it in me to peel off the hood scoop and try again (especially since I have no guarantee that I won't get zebra lines again)....but...maybe someone else will try.

That is exactly what I was thinking. Maybe a stool and long arms might work.

 

[GogDog]

That is exactly what I was thinking. Maybe a stool and long arms might work.

Yeah...I was already using stools. I'm 5'10"...average arms....I can really only get about half way across. With the hood up, I can't lean on the hood like I did before (or access the scoop from the front) but I still think it would be doable. I think for the best finish though would be to take the hood off, or find a vinyl person that would do it for cheap and then just plastidip the scoop insert.