Bad Plugs and Wires Change?

refthemc

refthemc

New member
My sister owns a 00' 4Runner V6 2WD and yesterday I went ahead and changed the Plugs and Wires that she bought for me to change. She got all her stuff from Autozone and after installing everything I turned the 4Runner on and it ran like absolute crap. A quick Google search showed me that I had placed the wires completely wrong, after I fixed that I turned the 4Runner back on and it still ran like crap. By crap I mean that it idles around 1200-1300 RPM's in park, and when accelerating it barley reaches 2000 RPMs before bogging down to 1000 RPMs. Now I'm wondering what to do next? Any advice would be appreciated. If you need anymore details please feel free to ask :)

Update: Last night I went out and picked up the NGK spark plugs recommended from this thread, and still the car ran like crap. I figured the Fuel Filter is new, and so are the Plugs and Wires, so maybe when I sprayed the CRC Throttle Body Cleaner into the TB to clean it, I must've messed something up. Turning the 4Runner on, I removed the Air filter and began to spray TB cleaner into the Intake and walla the car began to idle normally, even a test rev to 5000 RPM's was successful without any issues. Once I stopped spraying the TB cleaner though, the car returned to idling very high and being unable to rev past 2000 RPMs.

With all that being said, I believe I messed something up while I was cleaning out the Throttle Body with some TB cleaner before I installed the Plugs and Wires. Any advice on how to fix this issue is appreciated
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Make sure you use dual electrode plugs. The ones you referenced are single electrodes...

What type of wires did you get? Did you test the old ones to see if they were bad (Bad = R>25k ohms I think)
 
-get dual ground plugs (as suggested)
-get NGK wires or OEM if autozone will take them back, or if it won't break the bank(goes for plugs too I guess)
-double check your firing order ( the wires should be numbered with the cylinder they go to, and they are all different lengths so they should really only work the right way I would think)
-double check all your vacuum hoses
-triple check all your vacuum hoses
-if you messed with the throttle body let us know as that could add to the possibilities
-then, report back to us
edit:
-also, use Di'electric grease on all the connections and make sure you seat everything properly (you should hear or feel a slight "click")

Check out the following:
Redirect Notice
 
fish0281 said:
Make sure you use dual electrode plugs. The ones you referenced are single electrodes...

What type of wires did you get? Did you test the old ones to see if they were bad (Bad = R>25k ohms I think)
Click to expand...

She got the Duralast Wires but after it was running like crap I went to Autozone and picked up the next best thing/only other brand they sell: Bosch Wires

As far as Ohms I picked up my neighbors Multimeter this morning and I'm gonna stop by after work to continue to work on her car and test the parts. My only issue is that if the wires were not functioning properly, surely the Bosch wires that I "upgraded" for at Autozone would have fixed the issue. Which after a quick test last night they didn't, unless of course both the Duralast Wires and Bosh Wires were/are faulty.

Elton H said:
never use anything other than ngk or denso anything else will make it run 10x worse
Click to expand...

Thanks for tip, will definitely keep that in mind for the next Tune Up.

HCurphy said:
-get dual ground plugs (as suggested)
-get NGK wires or OEM if autozone will take them back, or if it won't break the bank(goes for plugs too I guess)
-double check your firing order ( the wires should be numbered with the cylinder they go to, and they are all different lengths so they should really only work the right way I would think)
-double check all your vacuum hoses
-triple check all your vacuum hoses
-if you messed with the throttle body let us know as that could add to the possibilities
-then, report back to us
edit:
-also, use Di'electric grease on all the connections and make sure you seat everything properly (you should hear or feel a slight "click")

Check out the following:
Redirect Notice
Click to expand...

Will definitely give this a go tonight and report back. Also, Autozone does not seem to carry the NGK's recommended on this site. Would anyone know what other Auto Parts store would carry them? I'm in the Greater Los Angeles Area if it helps.

As far as messing with the TB, I cleaned it out with some CRC Throttle Body Cleaner and didn't touch the MAF because I didn't want any issues. And I also replaced her Fuel Filter. So All together I changed her Plugs, Wires, Fuel Filter and cleaned her TB.
 
Last edited:
refthemc said:
Will definitely give this a go tonight and report back. Also, Autozone does not seem to carry the NGK's recommended on this site. Would anyone know what other Auto Parts store would carry them? I'm in the Greater Los Angeles Area if it helps.
Click to expand...

NAPA has the NGK wires as part number NGW 4412. Check here to see pricing and availability local to you. Only $35 at my local NAPA. Not in the store but they can get it following day here in NJ.

599395.jpg
 
Last edited:
From what I hear the dealer has plugs a couple bucks a pop, skip the parts house if you have a dealer you can get to.

RE the throttle body. Did you take it out of the car? or just clean it in place?
If you cleaned it in place you might have gotten some of that carbon gunk in the IAC valve, if you do all of the above mentioned items and can't get the idle right, that may be your next plan of attack.

also, this is likely NOT your issue but go ahead and pull the ECU fuse when you go to work on it next, leave it out for a few minutes, then put it back in. It will reset your computer. (you could pull a battery cable and accomplish the same thing.--again I don't think this is a solution to your problem but I like to do it at tune-ups)
 
Update: Last night I went out and picked up the NGK spark plugs reccomended from this thread, and still the car ran like crap. I figured the Fuel Filter is new, and so are the Plugs and Wires, so maybe when I sprayed the CRC Throttle Body Cleaner into the TB to clean it, I must've messed something up. Turning the 4Runner on, I removed the Air filter and began to spray TB cleaner into the Intake and walla the car began to idle normally, even a test rev to 5000 RPM's was successful without any issues. Once I stopped spraying the TB cleaner though, the car returned to idling very high and being unable to rev past 2000 RPMs.

With all that being said, I believe I messed something up while I was cleaning out the Throttle Body with some TB cleaner before I installed the Plugs and Wires. Any advice on how to fix this issue is appreciated :)
 
After a few coupons i paid $42 for the set of NGK wires for the 3.4l, and 6 dual electrode NGK plugs (the ones everyone lists in the how to's) at advance auto, and they were all in stock.
 
If you're sure the plugs are installed correctly and the wires are routed correctly your issue is either:

1.) You got the IAC gummed up when you cleaned the throttle body. (not uncommon)
2.) You have a vacuum leak somewhere.

Neither scenario is the end of the world, you'll just have to do some investigating. Where are you located? If you're local I'd be happy to help you out.
 
I got my truck to idle again. I ended up pulling off the plastic intake tubing and gave a couple of squirts of MAF cleaner down the hole in front of the throttle plate. I left off the plastic intake tube and started the engine and it fired up and then died. I did that 3 times. What I was hoping is that the cleaner would dissolve the carbon and then suck it past the IAC valve letting it function again and close. I was right. After reconnecting the plastic intake tube it fired up and the idle dropped to 750. I didn't have to remove the IAC either. Don't flood the hole, just two quick shots of MAF cleaner should dissolve any crud.

The reason I used MAF cleaner is it doesn't leave a residue and is less aggressive than carb cleaner.

I hope this proves to be an easier fix for this problem than removing the throttle body.

Just for the record, I installed NGK iridiums and the truck runs strong and improved my gas mileage from 14 to 16 mpg. Now I'm working on new fuel injectors today and it wouldn't surprize me if I didn't get an extra 1mpg from replacing the bad #2 injector. The dual prong plugs are needed because the ground electrode gets chewed up in our "wasted spark ignition" systems. Having two grounds makes them last longer. You would do just fine with a double platinum plug as well since it won't erode like the factory plug will and open the gap in a short 30k miles. The key to getting the right plug is make sure the center electrode is exposed like the old fashion plugs were. Bosch are crap but beyond that, Bosch imbeds the electrode in ceramic so it doesn't spark in reverse very well.

61RiSKHMssL.jpg
 
Last edited:
Fixed the issue with my sisters 4Runner. I took apart the Throttle Body and cleaned out the IAC valve but that also did not help her car from running like absolute crap. I ended up giving up and taking it to the nearby Toyota dealer and the tech told me that Plugs, Wires, Fuel Filter, and TB were good, but what was messing everything up was that the MAF was so dirty that it couldn't properly function anymore. He cleaned out the MAF for me and walla, the 4Runner is running like a champ again.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 458 (members: 4, guests: 454)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,111
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top