Bad_Vision's 1985 Toyota 4RUNNER TDI Swap (Completed swap)

[Bad_Vision]

We got turbo options to discuss when you're ready

So turbos, I said when I go bigger that I will make a custom intake. What's the size I can do without having low rpm lag? Or can I do like a t3 feeding a big t60?
I have done feeder turbo set up before but never on diesel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[absalom]

So turbos, I said when I go bigger that I will make a custom intake. What's the size I can do without having low rpm lag? Or can I do like a t3 feeding a big t60?
I have done feeder turbo set up before but never on diesel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I highly recommend staying VNT first of all. You could certainly do compound or sequential. However, it's worth pointing out that the VNT15 that comes stock on the ALH is 1st gen VNT technology. And the tech has really changed a lot since it was released. In fact, 4th gen VNTs are smaller than ever, while pumping out more power with less lag.

So, if you don't want to get crazy complicated by going twins, I recommend 3rd or 4th gen VNT. The turbo I plan on running is the GTC1549VZ. It comes stock on the 177 hp Cuda, and will easily support 240 hp. Which is very difficult to obtain with the ALH. Users running this turbo report almost zero lag, and full boost at just off idle. Pretty obscene compared to the VNT15. You'll want to be careful, as the ALH doesn't like to be lugged with gobs of power below 1,600 or so rpms.

 

[barfass]

VW Diesel and 4Runner

Keeping an eye on this thread as a friend of mine just had a TDI swapped into a 1961 Ford F100. Has some turbo'ing to do with it but I was very impressed. I have been wondering about this swap from V6 to TDI as I know the V6 is not good on gas. Keep up the posts and hopefully you find a decent solid axle Runner.

 

[Bad_Vision]

Started building motor mounts today.
I'm going to pick up a pickup cab sometime this week just to get the project back moving then when I get time this summer I'll go looking for a rust free 4 runner body and swap that onto it.
Got the frame it's going to be on ready. 5" all spring lift with the back chopped for a fuel cell. Should work with a flatbed until I can find a rust free 4runner or maybe do another full diesel swap and keep the pickup for a beat up trail rig.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[absalom]

Sounds like it'll look something like this:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1gMFb1gebi8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


Which just so happens to be my favorite vehicle on the internetz

 

[Bad_Vision]

So I picked up a pickup cab so I can have something to play with until I can find a rust free first gen.

Then after some work today I got this sucker on my 4runner frame.

I did have to fab up some body mounts for the rear cab because the 4runner frame has body mounts closer to the front then the pickup frames.

So all said and done it has 5" skyjacker softride lift.
2" body lift.
Sitting on 33" tires now didn't get a picture after I swapped the tires because I was tired!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bad_Vision]

I ran into some clearance issues so going to build a custom crossmember and scoot the engine forward about 2"
I'll have a updated video shortly on the wiring and custom harness.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Rockdawg84]

I know that axles might not be on the front burner but if you want to widen a front axle here is the way to do it. and with our equipment you should have no problem.

Great build.
Widening a front axle the right way. - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

 

[Bad_Vision]

I know that axles might not be on the front burner but if you want to widen a front axle here is the way to do it. and with our equipment you should have no problem.



Great build.

Widening a front axle the right way. - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Already planning it out for later upgrades lol thanks though



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ahlem]

So what is your plan for coating the frame? My son's FLA 4 Runner will need something this Summer. There's a product called Chassis Saver (?) that supposedly works.

 

[Bad_Vision]

So what is your plan for coating the frame? My son's FLA 4 Runner will need something this Summer. There's a product called Chassis Saver (?) that supposedly works.

Going to sand blast the frame and do a thick coat of self etching primer then a coat of rust oleum then coat with monsterliner with no texture.
I will probably have it baked by a local powder coated to ensure bondage if not I will hit the finished paint with a coat of UV resistant clear coat. I'll never have to worry about a rusty frame again! And if I need to weld something to the frame this leaves it open to sand and re apply the same coatings unlike powder coat. Also with powder coat a rock can chip the coating allowing it to rust out under the powder coat.
As for your sons truck the best thing I can suggest is a good sanding wheel and some good spray paint. I have heard mixed things about so called frame saving paints and coatings as they are typically more expensive and have mixed results.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bad_Vision]

Got my clearance issue solved.
I made a custom plate that the transmission mount bolts to and then bolts to the stock location with a 1 1/2" further forward.

Here is the plate I made

Now the power steering pump on w ALH was rubbing the steering knuckle.

So I found a way to mount the pump in stock location with simple modifications.
First cut the top bolt in location off.

Next cut away half of the bolt in location for the farthest bolt from the engine. Then put the pump in and it will now adjust up making the farthest bolt now go up into the bracket more giving the much needed clearance for the knuckle use a punch through the back of the pump to mark our new hole location and drill it out from the back. Don't go to far as you will need clear the hydraulic tensioner arm. I made mine so close that I have to put the pulley on with the belt in it to attach run it. And the tension must be on before the pulley wheel.

Now the pump fits and is clear of the steering knuckle I opted for this because most guys won't have the ability to fabricate brackets and this way can be done with a cut off wheel and a drill.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bad_Vision]

And begins the wiring.
Every other swap thread says the wiring is simple but non of those guys go into detail of how they wired the ECU to run on a power and a ground. Some guys literally use the harness and just tape of what's left after plugging it in.
As all the wiring diagrams don't show a way to bypass anything I will have to do some testing and see what works. As the ECU only needs to communicate with itself and no gauges the only wires leading out of the main harness should be
1 constant power
1 switched power to wake up ECU
1 ground
All associated OBD port wires
And the wires for the electric gas pedal.

If my theory is correct that should be it. The car had a million relays and redundant wires so I just need to identify the wires it does need and send signal to and delete the ones that go to the gauge cluster.

The glow plugs will be a simple push button so that eliminates a lot of headache from the glow plug relays and such.
I may just get a timed relay that fires them every time I turn the key on and set it for like 10 seconds. The stock ALH glow plugs have a safety feature on them that doesn't let them overheat so essentially I just need to get them power for any amount of time I swam for by ether relay or push button.

Tomorrow should yield more insight as I will have all the sensors plugged in and traced back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bad_Vision]

 

[Bad_Vision]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bad_Vision]

 

[absalom]

It sounds amazing. You're doing an amazing job. Now, don't give up, because this is where I see most swaps come to a screeching halt.

Also, mind as well toss a pre-turbo EGT probe in while everything is so exposed. You could hook it up to an Auber gauge, and then use the whole thing as a trigger down the road for meth-injection

 

[Bad_Vision]

It sounds amazing. You're doing an amazing job. Now, don't give up, because this is where I see most swaps come to a screeching halt.

Also, mind as well toss a pre-turbo EGT probe in while everything is so exposed. You could hook it up to an Auber gauge, and then use the whole thing as a trigger down the road for meth-injection

Why would it halt here?
All I have to put in is a radiator, brake lines, intercooler and gas tank. That's all the easy stuff that doesn't take thinking lol

Thanks man I have been cooking along fast and can't wait to take it for a spin.

One question on he turbo do I need a flex pipe like the car had or can I run straight off the turbo to the system?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[absalom]

Why would it halt here?
All I have to put in is a radiator, brake lines, intercooler and gas tank. That's all the easy stuff that doesn't take thinking lol

Thanks man I have been cooking along fast and can't wait to take it for a spin.

One question on he turbo do I need a flex pipe like the car had or can I run straight off the turbo to the system?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Definitely flexpipe--3" if you can swing it

 

[Bad_Vision]

Definitely flexpipe--3" if you can swing it

Lol your a nut.
The turbo inlet is 1.75" and the compression outlet is 1.5"
The turbo exhaust outlet is like 2"

3" is just a waste of space, and from my reading most TDI guys like running 2.5" and that's what I plan to do for now. At least until I put a massive turbo or something on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk