Bandit Runner's Build Thread

[Bandit Runner]

Nice pay load!!! Woo I'm exited for you. Keep up the good work!

Thanks, I'm excited too!

Wow that is awesome! Any reason you are using 85W-140 gear oil? I thought we used 75W-90 or is it more preference/gear set up?

East Coast Gear Supply recommends the 85W-140 gear oil. I am not exactly sure why. Maybe because of the lockers? Anyway, they're the experts, so I went with their recommendation.

Bandit, in his boat:

View attachment 88783

Nice upgrades man. I can't look at those diffs too much... it makes me itch right where my wallet is in my back pocket.

haha, Hilarious! With the money I spent on this, I could have bought a boat.

 

[Bandit Runner]

Well, the diffs are in. It took my buddy and I about 8 hours to install them. Unfortunately we ran out of time and weren’t able to get to the Tundra brake upgrade yet. Everything went pretty smoothly with the exception of a few minor issues like stripping an E-torx bolt head, and I also now need a new fill plug for the rear diff. Easy fixes.

We did run into one problem though. After we finished, we took it for a quick test drive. Everything was fine in 2 wheel drive, but when I pushed the 4wd button on the side of the 4wd shifter, the truck acted as if it was in neutral. You could hear the ADD “click” and the 4wd dash light went green as it should. So I believe it was in 4wd. However, when I pushed the gas pedal, the engine just revved, but no forward movement. It seemed as though the transfer case was in neutral, even though it was in 4-High.

We ran out of time to diagnose the issue. We did have some trouble disconnecting/connecting the electrical plug connector above the front diff in the confined space. Possibly we might have broken a wire, or pinched a wire? Anyone have any thoughts? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.

 

[Bandit Runner]

Among all the other things I have going on (diffs, lockers, on-board air, roof rack build, etc...), I've also been working on my switch panel I mentioned earlier. I have it pretty much completed, I just need to paint it yet. Here is what it looks like on the center dash:

Going to paint it metallic silver to match the center dash trim. The hazard switch is still accessible, and the vents can still be rotated, even though they look covered up in the pic.

 

[Dous]

Sweet! You guys got those in quick, I meant to PM you when we shipped the ARB compressor, slipped my mind.

Now we need some pictures of you wheeling with the lockers, it will be a WORLD of difference.

 

[Bandit Runner]

Sweet! You guys got those in quick, I meant to PM you when we shipped the ARB compressor, slipped my mind.

Now we need some pictures of you wheeling with the lockers, it will be a WORLD of difference.

Thanks man. I agree, I need to get out and do some wheelin'. I just have to get my 4wd working first. My buddy got a hold of a wiring diagram, and thinks he can figure it out. And I still need to get the air compressor and air lines hooked up. Will the ARB twin compressor fit in our engine compartment?

Also, is there any information about new gear break-in period? I didn't get any paperwork in my packages regarding that.

FYI: Be on the lookout for my front & rear diff cores. I sent them out on Friday.

 

[Dous]

Thanks man. I agree, I need to get out and do some wheelin'. I just have to get my 4wd working first. My buddy got a hold of a wiring diagram, and thinks he can figure it out. And I still need to get the air compressor and air lines hooked up. Will the ARB twin compressor fit in our engine compartment?

Also, is there any information about new gear break-in period? I didn't get any paperwork in my packages regarding that.

FYI: Be on the lookout for my front & rear diff cores. I sent them out on Friday.

You will be hard pressed to fit that twin in the engine bay, but if anyone can figure it out I imagine it would be you.

As for the break in period, change the oil after 500 miles. No towing, no driving for extended periods of time without letting the oil cool. On the highway fluctuate your speed every 10 minutes. If you are driving for longer than 30 minutes make sure you stop and let the oil cool at the 30 minute mark. There are a bunch of people out there who disregard the break in period and they don't notice a difference. But it's a big chunk of change, so it's probably a good idea!

I will keep an eye out for the cores and get them submitted :rockon:

 

[URBAN ASSAULT]

That is some seriously nice plastics work. I am working on a switch bank as well but almost embarrassed to post pics after seeing your work. Where are you running your wires? A 10 switch loom is prob pretty big. One more question: are you running all this back to a secondary fuse box?
Great work as always!

 

[Bandit Runner]

You will be hard pressed to fit that twin in the engine bay, but if anyone can figure it out I imagine it would be you.

As for the break in period, change the oil after 500 miles. No towing, no driving for extended periods of time without letting the oil cool. On the highway fluctuate your speed every 10 minutes. If you are driving for longer than 30 minutes make sure you stop and let the oil cool at the 30 minute mark. There are a bunch of people out there who disregard the break in period and they don't notice a difference. But it's a big chunk of change, so it's probably a good idea!

I will keep an eye out for the cores and get them submitted :rockon:

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

 

[Bandit Runner]

That is some seriously nice plastics work. I am working on a switch bank as well but almost embarrassed to post pics after seeing your work. Where are you running your wires? A 10 switch loom is prob pretty big. One more question: are you running all this back to a secondary fuse box?
Great work as always!

Thanks, it helps to have access to rapid prototyping machines. I think there will be 13 total wires running into the switch housing. One, for all the grounds, one for the switch lights, one for switch power, and one for each of the 10 accessories. They will be routed behind/under the dash and out the center dash into the switch housing. I don't have a secondary fuse box yet, so all the hot wires will have an inline fuse near the battery.

 

[JBurt]

If you can't get them under the hood and you want some air storage as well I saw this the other day and thought I'd pass it along. Good work as always.

The guy who did this talks about it here

 

[cdrewferd]

Great build. Can't wait to see where you mount that ARB compressor.

 

[4ever4running]

Dang Bandit those are so sweet upgrades!! I can't wait to see how the switch panel comes out when it's finished!

 

[JWaldz]

Did you fix your 4x4 issue yet? Sounds like you either reverse some wires or messed one of them up.

 

[Bandit Runner]

Great build. Can't wait to see where you mount that ARB compressor.

Yeah, me too. I sure hope I can fit it in the engine compartment.

Dang Bandit those are so sweet upgrades!! I can't wait to see how the switch panel comes out when it's finished!

Thanks.

Did you fix your 4x4 issue yet? Sounds like you either reverse some wires or messed one of them up.

Not yet. My buddy (former Toyota mechanic) got a hold of the wiring diagram and is tracking it down. Hopefully soon.

 

[MojaveMadMan]

That switch pannel 3D printed? You willing to share the file????

 

[Bandit Runner]

That switch pannel 3D printed? You willing to share the file????

It is nylon SLS (Selective Laser Sintering). PM sent.

 

[Bandit Runner]

I finished the updates to my front bumper, and got it reinstalled. I got the new square fog light inserts completed, and repainted the bumper. The bumper limb riser mounts are also completed. The RI LED lights are mounted, but not wired up yet.

I tried taking a few pics, but it was getting too dark out. I'll get some more soon.

 

[JWaldz]

Fancypants Magee over here.. Nice work!

That switch panel is ridiculous. How are you planning on getting wires hidden? That many switches as gonna be A LOT of wires.

 

[Bandit Runner]

Fancypants Magee over here.. Nice work!

That switch panel is ridiculous. How are you planning on getting wires hidden? That many switches as gonna be A LOT of wires.

Haha, Thanks.

I think there will be 13 total wires running into the switch housing. One, for all the grounds, one for the switch lights, one for switch power, and one for each of the 10 accessories. They will be routed behind/under the dash and out the center dash into the switch housing.

 

[MojaveMadMan]

It is nylon SLS (Selective Laser Sintering). PM sent.

Thanks for the PM, more coming your way!