Bandit Runner's Build Thread

That spring, I also got my first lift. It was Daystar 2.5" spacers in the front with OME 890's in the rear.

I just finished reading through your build and I think it's awesome how you have done most, if now all the building on your truck.
I've been thinking about doing spacers on mine first because I don't have access to trails or anything like that where I live and I want to clear bigger tires. This was a spacer lift instead of body, right? Did you have to upgrade your shocks at this point?
 
Wow that looks pretty beefy. I wonder if you could sell plans like that like your bumper. It would also be easy to extend it to cover a factor locker motor.

Just out of curiosity did you ever get pics of peoples bumpers that they've put together.

Selling the plans is not a bad idea. I'll build it first though to prove out the concept.

There are a few pics of the Bandit bumpers in members build threads. I should try and capture them sometime.
 
I just finished reading through your build and I think it's awesome how you have done most, if now all the building on your truck.
I've been thinking about doing spacers on mine first because I don't have access to trails or anything like that where I live and I want to clear bigger tires. This was a spacer lift instead of body, right? Did you have to upgrade your shocks at this point?

Thanks man. Yes, it was a spacer lift, not a body lift. I was using the stock shocks at that time.
 
I got a little work done on the rear diff skid. This is the main piece that runs directly under the axle and diff. My makeshift weld jig:
wvJBSb2.jpg


Off the jig:
pIgP61B.jpg


And propped up in place under the axle:
FFAdN2A.jpg

You can also see the 2 U-bolts that will attach it to the axle. They will be cut shorter later.
 
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You can also see the 2 U-bolts that will attach it to the axle. They will be cut shorter later.

Why not flip the U-bolts so the U faces upwards and length ends up being a non-issue?
Edit: Okay, just realized your design plans have tabs that the shanks go through. However, would it not still be possible to use the U-Bolt to clamp what you currently have to the axle tube?
 
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Why not flip the U-bolts so the U faces upwards and length ends up being a non-issue?
Edit: Okay, just realized your design plans have tabs that the shanks go through. However, would it not still be possible to use the U-Bolt to clamp what you currently have to the axle tube?

That was my first thought on the U-bolt design also. However, there is very little room on the top side of the axle for a bracket for the U-bolt to attach to. There is just hardly any width between the spring perch and the upper arm attachment bracket. That's why I decided to put the U-bolt on the top side of the axle.

In the above CAD images, I had another design that just used regular bolts. But I found that this design didn't work either for the same reason.

Thanks for the advice though.
 
That was my first thought on the U-bolt design also. However, there is very little room on the top side of the axle for a bracket for the U-bolt to attach to. There is just hardly any width between the spring perch and the upper arm attachment bracket. That's why I decided to put the U-bolt on the top side of the axle.

In the above CAD images, I had another design that just used regular bolts. But I found that this design didn't work either for the same reason.

Thanks for the advice though.

I see what you mean, was just wondering though!
Do you plan on making a cutout for the differential drain bolt? Or do you consider diff oil changes infrequent enough to warrant that, and instead just remove the whole thing?
I ask because I'm actually in the process of building my diff armor and could not decide on a cutout for the drain bolt or not.
 
I see what you mean, was just wondering though!
Do you plan on making a cutout for the differential drain bolt? Or do you consider diff oil changes infrequent enough to warrant that, and instead just remove the whole thing?
I ask because I'm actually in the process of building my diff armor and could not decide on a cutout for the drain bolt or not.

No cutout for the drain bolt. Like you said, "Too infrequent".

Got any pics of your design/progress?
 
So even the great Bandit Runner makes mistakes. When I was measuring the rear diff for the skidplate, I didn’t realize that the center line of the drive shaft flange is offset from the centerline of the rear of the diff that bolts to the axle housing. The flange is moved toward the passenger side about an inch. I guess to provide clearance for the gas tank. As you can see in the above CAD images I modeled it so that the centerlines were aligned to each other, and the skidplate symmetrical, which is incorrect.

I found this out after I added a few more pieces to the skid, then set it in place, and things didn’t even come close to lining up. This is how I made the skidplate symmetrical, which made me notice the centerline offset:
hhLAEJi.jpg


I set it in place and I was like “WTF?” Why is the flange not centered above the skidplate? Then I noticed the offset. Arrg!

So now I have to go back to the drawing board, update my axle/diff model and redesign the non-symmetrical skidplate.
 
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So even the great Bandit Runner makes mistakes. When I was measuring the rear diff for the skidplate, I didn’t realize that the center line of the drive shaft flange is offset from the centerline of the rear of the diff that bolts to the axle housing. The flange is moved toward the passenger side about an inch. I guess to provide clearance for the gas tank. As you can see in the above CAD images I modeled it so that the centerlines were aligned to each other, and the skidplate symmetrical, which is incorrect.

I found this out after I added a few more pieces to the skid, then set it in place, and things didn’t even come close to lining up. This is how I made the skidplate symmetrical, which made me notice the centerline offset:
IMG_0310_zps8e255705.jpg~original


I set it in place and I was like “WTF?” Why is the flange not centered above the skidplate? Then I noticed the offset. Arrg!

So now I have to go back to the drawing board, update my axle/diff model and redesign the non-symmetrical skidplate.
This exact same thing happened to me when I was making speaker pods for the front doors to accommodate a 3 way component set only it took me almost a month to smooth and shape these pods to the doors. Then I found out that the driver and passenger doors are not mirror angles or spaced the same. I had to throw them out as they were unusable. At least you can re-use the metal lol.

Still that is a cool design and would go a long ways to protecting the elocker motor too.
 
By far my favorite build. Every mod you have done is almost exactly the way I would want my 4runner to be. Minus the lights. I'm not a led fan. I will say I liked the bronze/black color theme 100x better than black/green. But originality trumps all and I've never seen that color combo before on a 4runner
 
By far my favorite build. Every mod you have done is almost exactly the way I would want my 4runner to be. Minus the lights. I'm not a led fan. I will say I liked the bronze/black color theme 100x better than black/green. But originality trumps all and I've never seen that color combo before on a 4runner

Thanks man! What don't you like about LED's? Sometimes I miss the bronze color, but I still really like the green too.
 
Let me fix that statement Bandit. What I meant was I myself wouldn't put all those led lights on my 4runner mainly because I couldn't, even if I tried. what I meant to say is "I'm not a fan of leds like you." Like that's not something I would care to put time and money into. That being said I really like all the lights on your 4runner.
 
I redesigned the rear diff skid and got some work done on it. I was able to save the rear portion of what I had already built. I just cut the front section off, and rebuilt it with the new non-symmetrical design.

iOuf8hB.jpg


YUroV09.jpg


QMjPawB.jpg


The centerline offset ended up being 1 inch. As you can see in the pics, I got the mounting piece in place that sets under the end of the diff. It fits just right now.
 
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I got some more pieces tack welded onto the diff skid plate: The front mounting features and the rear section. Its actually starting to look like something now.

Inside:
zuZPiFs.jpg


Outside:
wNpLCoA.jpg


I also got the front upper mount completed. It sits on top of the diff, and bolts pass through it to attach to the skid plate. The diff is clamped between the mount and the skid.
XqPPT2E.jpg
 
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Got a little welding done on the rear diff skid today, but nothing pic worthy.

In other news, I bought something for the truck that I've been wanting for quite a while. Its a 2000 watt pure sine inverter.

mpYeGm7.jpg


The plan is to mount it under the driver's seat, and run an extension cord to the center console, which will act as an outlet. I still need to get some #00 gauge welding cable and a 300 amp fuse to run to the battery. It will be really nice to be able to run electrical power tools or anything else I want from the truck, at any time or place. It even has a remote control to turn it on and off.
 
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I pulled a forklift out of the snow today.

i75S2Nl.jpg


My wife drives forklift for her job, but their parking lot wasn't plowed out very well after the snow we got last weekend. She got it stuck and called me to come over and pull it out. Nothing exciting, just a quick little tug and it was out. Afterwards she yelled "Yeah 4Runner!"
 
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