Bandit Runner's Build Thread

First snow of the season here in Michigan today. Snapped a few pics:
pc5tyBe.jpg


tLRNYNp.jpg


z9K4uaq.jpg


jHme0fg.jpg
 
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Worked on the gas tank skid plate a little this weekend, but nothing pic worthy.

However the big news is this showed up on my doorstep:
3i5xgSz.jpg


3cLM2BZ.jpg


I was planning on repainting the front bumper in the spring, so I will probably wait until then to install the winch.
 
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More parts to install:

I just received my parts from the electrical upgrade group buy from [MENTION=99491]Bumper2Bumper Auto[/MENTION]. Looks like high quality components.

3252Ef0.jpg


High output 200 Amp alternator and the Big Three Wire Upgrade. (Why do they call it the big three when there are 5 wires? haha)
 
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More parts to install:

I just received my parts from the electrical upgrade group buy from [MENTION=99491]Bumper2Bumper Auto[/MENTION]. Looks like high quality components.



High output 200 Amp alternator and the Big Three Wire Upgrade. (Why do they call it the big three when there are 5 wires? haha)

Do you know what kind of stator is in that alternator? I'm buying aa new alternator soon with a hairpin stator, with the idea that the amp output at idle is at least 150. That one being a 200amp, is that at idle?
 
More parts to install:

I just received my parts from the electrical upgrade group buy from [MENTION=99491]Bumper2Bumper Auto[/MENTION]. Looks like high quality components.

IMG_0669_zpspbwfcjx0.jpg~original


High output 200 Amp alternator and the Big Three Wire Upgrade. (Why do they call it the big three when there are 5 wires? haha)

I call it the Big 5. The other companies call it Big 3 because their kits only replace 3 cables. lol
 
Alternator to battery
Battery to ground
Engine to ground

Not sure where you're getting your 5th from?

The alternator to battery has the breaker between for two wires.

1) Alt to Battery
2) Battery to ground
3) Engine block to battery
4) Battery to left fender (factory ground at fender can only handle 75 amps of current)
5) Battery to fuse block (since the alt to fuse box cable is re-routed directly to the battery, I used a nice 8 gauge cable to power the fuse block)


Do you know what kind of stator is in that alternator? I'm buying aa new alternator soon with a hairpin stator, with the idea that the amp output at idle is at least 150. That one being a 200amp, is that at idle?

Not exactly sure what you mean by what kind of stator is in the alternator. I know that my builder takes factory alternators and rewinds the stator as well as the rotor and rewinds them for proper output. The regulator is also upgraded to handle the control of the output. The output is typically 70% of maximum output at idle speed. So a 200A alternator will put out about 140A at engine idle speed.

A lot of aftermarket builders use undersized pulleys on their alternators to increase alternator output at idle. The problem with that is that it puts excessive speed and stress on the bearings inside the alternator. That is why I didn't go with one of the other companies to build my alternators.
 
Not exactly sure what you mean by what kind of stator is in the alternator. I know that my builder takes factory alternators and rewinds the stator as well as the rotor and rewinds them for proper output. The regulator is also upgraded to handle the control of the output. The output is typically 70% of maximum output at idle speed. So a 200A alternator will put out about 140A at engine idle speed.

A lot of aftermarket builders use undersized pulleys on their alternators to increase alternator output at idle. The problem with that is that it puts excessive speed and stress on the bearings inside the alternator. That is why I didn't go with one of the other companies to build my alternators.

A hairpin stator is a way to get more and thicker wire in the armature to allow for low speed, high output without the need for changing pulley sizes. I've found some companies advertising their alternators for high output at low idle speeds but they fail to mention the crank pulley size used in the test and I have been wary as a result.
 
1) Alt to Battery
2) Battery to ground
3) Engine block to battery
4) Battery to left fender (factory ground at fender can only handle 75 amps of current)
5) Battery to fuse block (since the alt to fuse box cable is re-routed directly to the battery, I used a nice 8 gauge cable to power the fuse block)

2&4 aren't the same?
 
Gas tank skid plate progress:

dvYv3sB.jpg


All the mounts are done and completely welded. Drainage holes were drilled. All fab work is complete, just needs some cleanup, then I'll paint it next spring.
 
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I started another fun little project recently. Since purchasing the winch, I really like the idea of the Factor 55 ProLink shackle mount instead of a hook on the end of the winch line. As seen here:
czrubfG.jpg


I don't want a hook flopping around or hooked off to the side to one of the bumper's shackles. I like that you can pull the ProLink up against the fairlead nice and tight - very clean and symmetrical looking too:
lsFBGeo.jpg


Well the ProLinks go for around $150. I couldn't see paying that for a simple piece of machined aluminum and a pin. So since I am a cheap bastard, I decided to try and make my own. I studied the images of the ProLink and came up with all the necessary dimensions. I found a 3" diameter by 4" long piece of 6061-T6 aluminum in the scrap bin at work. I also grabbed a 3/4" diameter by 2.5" long hardened steel dowel pin.

Now I'm no machinist, and don't have access to a mill, which would have been perfect for machining this thing. I'll be hacking this out with a drill press, dremel tool, and an angle grinder. First I measured out where to put the cross pin hole and the opening in the end for the winch line loop to fit into:
rTW056G.jpg


I got the cross pin hole drilled, and started drilling holes for the end opening:
pOrlAEX.jpg


The end opening was a real PITA. After several hours of drilling and dremelling, I had it pretty well hacked out. Notice the huge pile of aluminum shavings:
7vwyU18.jpg


Next I had to remove the hook from the winch line. I taped off the synthetic winch line to protect it, and cut the hook off with an angle grinder. I felt a little guilty for destroying a perfectly good hook:
IgVSVtA.jpg


The winch loop shown with the aluminum part and the cross pin:
zvW9KZl.jpg


The winch line loop inside, being held in place with the cross pin:
4QCnYyE.jpg


That's as far as I am right now. Next I'll start working on the shackle mounting features.
 
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I call it the Big 5. The other companies call it Big 3 because their kits only replace 3 cables. lol

Group buy for 200amp alternator and I missed it??? >:-/
[MENTION=55891]Bandit Runner[/MENTION] dude sick stuff going on here ..
Did you install your alternator yet? Just wanna see some
Pics of your wiring
 
Group buy for 200amp alternator and I missed it??? >:-/

[MENTION=55891]Bandit Runner[/MENTION] dude sick stuff going on here ..
Did you install your alternator yet? Just wanna see some
Pics of your wiring

Thanks! Well the group buy was just for the wiring upgrade, but the guy sells alternators also, so I just added that to my order to save on shipping. Sorry, I haven't installed the alt yet. Probably be a while before I get to it. I'll try to take some pics of the wiring.
 

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