Bandit Runner's Build Thread

[Unner]

If it's totally flat I think you're OK to use overdrive, but any inclines you should have OD off. I certainly wouldn't want to tow with a stock 4Runner, let alone a heavily modified one like yours. I've only pulled a trailer with mine once. It was empty and I stayed in town, nothing over 40 mph haha

 

[snivilous]

Had to do a little hauling last weekend. Had to move some stuff for my wife's work. It was a 7' x 14' trailer with a very light load. Like probably no more than 1500 lbs including the trailer.

(Yes, I know I need a new ball mount with a larger drop to level out the trailer)

I gotta say, I was very disappointed in the truck's ability to pull such a small load on the highway. First, I turned off the overdrive, but the truck was running at around 3700 rpms at 70mph. The high rpms scared me, so I turned the overdrive back on, but then it was all I could do to keep the speed at 70mph. The truck really struggled.

Luckily I only had to go about 20 miles, and made it there with no real issues. So would it have been better to keep the OD off and let it rev high? Or leave the OD on?

I always thought you were supposed to turn off the OD when towing, but how high is too high for the rpms? Thoughts?

With my 35s and stock gearing right now, going into 4th (overdrive) is all but totally useless. I cannot maintain speed, even going downhill, on the interstate if I let it upshift. I noticed last week when I was in CA at low elevation (~3000ft) that the truck would do better but still not great. All I do at interstate speeds is turn OD off. Granted, I can do 80mph at about 3200rpm and 70rpm around 2800rpm, but if there's a hill with any real grade to it then I usually end up manually dropping it into 2nd. If it's on the interstate I'll drop it into 2nd and set the rpms around 4000, maybe lower if it's a really long hill. Point being I've had no issues whatsoever with the engined revved way out and for extended periods. I just drove back from KOH, from CA to essentially the corner of WY, and I would be surprised if there was 30 minutes out of my entire 22 hours driving there and back that were under 3000rpm.

Hope this helps instill some confidence, from what I've read our engines are way overbuilt. I'm sure high rpm will kill off some life, but so do lots of other factors so whatever. The engine didn't skip a beat so I'm not worried.

 

[Bandit Runner]

If it's totally flat I think you're OK to use overdrive, but any inclines you should have OD off. I certainly wouldn't want to tow with a stock 4Runner, let alone a heavily modified one like yours. I've only pulled a trailer with mine once. It was empty and I stayed in town, nothing over 40 mph haha

With my 35s and stock gearing right now, going into 4th (overdrive) is all but totally useless. I cannot maintain speed, even going downhill, on the interstate if I let it upshift. I noticed last week when I was in CA at low elevation (~3000ft) that the truck would do better but still not great. All I do at interstate speeds is turn OD off. Granted, I can do 80mph at about 3200rpm and 70rpm around 2800rpm, but if there's a hill with any real grade to it then I usually end up manually dropping it into 2nd. If it's on the interstate I'll drop it into 2nd and set the rpms around 4000, maybe lower if it's a really long hill. Point being I've had no issues whatsoever with the engined revved way out and for extended periods. I just drove back from KOH, from CA to essentially the corner of WY, and I would be surprised if there was 30 minutes out of my entire 22 hours driving there and back that were under 3000rpm.

Hope this helps instill some confidence, from what I've read our engines are way overbuilt. I'm sure high rpm will kill off some life, but so do lots of other factors so whatever. The engine didn't skip a beat so I'm not worried.

Thanks for the input guys. I guess I'll just leave the OD off when towing from now on. Its not that often anyway.

I wonder how much a supercharger would help the towing power situation?

 

[Unner]

Sounds like an experimental supercharger is needed. You know, for science purposes.:guitar3:

 

[Bandit Runner]

Started a new project recently. I've been wanting to beef up my rear upper and lower control arms. First I purchased a set of used uppers and lowers from a member here to put on the truck so I can still drive it while I work on mine. I switched them out, and realized the bushings on my lowers were almost completely disintegrated. I could actually look through them and see daylight, where they should have been solid rubber.

So I'll be ordering all new poly bushings for this project soon. Anyway, this weekend (in between binge-watching the Walking Dead marathon) I was able to get all the old bushings out, and even got the lowers cleaned up.

A while back I got a piece of 1.5" x 2.5" x 3/16" thick wall rectangular tubing. I cut it in half lengthwise.

This makes two perfectly sized pieces that fit over the lower arms.

These will be welded onto the bottoms of the lower arms, to strengthen them and be used as skids. That's as far as I got. I'm not sure exactly how I'm going to beef up the upper arms yet.

 

[derpiful]

Started a new project recently.

Those are gonna be sweet! Can't wait to see how they turn out, super interested. Something I definitely need to do sometime.

 

[Racer1]

I WANT THIS RIG................:hug:

 

[Bandit Runner]

I WANT THIS RIG................:hug:

haha. Sorry Charlie, Its not going anywhere.

 

[fourfive]

So I'll be ordering all new poly bushings for this project soon. Anyway, this weekend (in between binge-watching the Walking Dead marathon) I was able to get all the old bushings out, and even got the lowers cleaned up.

I was looking into changing out my oem rubber bushings for polys on my rear uca & lca because of the improvements in handling after installing polys in my front lca, sway bar/endlinks, & steering rack. But after researching a bit, it seemed like the general consensus was that it wasn't a good idea. I forget the details of why it wasn't recommended but something about the polys being too strong & not allowing enough movement. Have you heard anything about that?

 

[Bandit Runner]

I was looking into changing out my oem rubber bushings for polys on my rear uca & lca because of the improvements in handling after installing polys in my front lca, sway bar/endlinks, & steering rack. But after researching a bit, it seemed like the general consensus was that it wasn't a good idea. I forget the details of why it wasn't recommended but something about the polys being too strong & not allowing enough movement. Have you heard anything about that?

Hmmm... I hadn't heard that. I would definitely be interested to read more about it though.

 

[fourfive]

Hmmm... I hadn't heard that. I would definitely be interested to read more about it though.

I didn't find a lot of info regarding potential issues with polys for the rear lca/uca but it was enough for me to put that idea on hold and was considering doing oem rubber bushings. I spoke to camel back toyota and they said they sell the lower bushings (part# 48702-35070) but they said the uca bushings are different & weren't sold separately.

 

[Bandit Runner]

I didn't find a lot of info regarding potential issues with polys for the rear lca/uca but it was enough for me to put that idea on hold and was considering doing oem rubber bushings. I spoke to camel back toyota and they said they sell the lower bushings (part# 48702-35070) but they said the uca bushings are different & weren't sold separately.

Thanks for the info!

 

[4runnerfly]

Dig the custom bumper guard.

 

[Bandit Runner]

A little more progress on the rear control arm project. I got the uppers cleaned up and old bushings out:

Then I found some scrap steel to use to beef them up. I cut a piece of 1" square x 1/8" wall tubing in half lengthwise diagonally, so I have 2 L-shaped pieces. These will go on the bottom side of the upper arms in an upside down V-shape, so that water/mud won't collect inside it. Then I cut some 1/4" thick x 1" wide strips to add to the top side.

Pieces cut and ready to be welded on:

 

[fourfive]

make any decisions regarding which bushings you plan on using for the uppers & lowers yet?

 

[JBurt]

Any way you could get a Johnny joint in there?

 

[Bandit Runner]

make any decisions regarding which bushings you plan on using for the uppers & lowers yet?

I'll probably go with the whiteline bushings.

 

[fourfive]

Ive been back and forth with those or getting new rear arms or bushings from toyota. Would definitely be cheaper going whiteline especially since ive had good results with poly/elastomer bushings so far. Will be interested in how the final product turns out and handles.

 

[Bandit Runner]

Today I got the extra steel welded onto my rear lower control arms. They turned out nice, and should be much stronger now.

Waiting for warmer/drier weather to get them painted.

 

[fourfive]

A little more progress on the rear control arm project. I got the uppers cleaned up and old bushings out:

How did you go about removing the factory bushings from your rear upper & lower arms? I ended up ordering the whiteline bushings (W63378 & W63379) today & trying to figure out what diameter size adapters I'll need to press out the factory bushings using a 4wd c-clamp style ball joint press.