BaseRunners 1989 22RE Build thread

Sooo...they installed the O2 sensor into the manifold? I'm just asking because I can see an exhaust system in my future. The cat thing was stalling me. I guess a competent exhaust shop could weld a bung on a new cat.

I went out and took some pictures for you, hopefully this helps ya. My o2 sensor was so badly rusted on, the shop had to cut it off, and weld it onto a new pipe onto the manifold im guessing.



I just saw on Chuckles thread you are wanting to change to mouse ear mirrors.
They will fit the top holes. If you pull off the interior door panel you will see where the factory made the mirror holes. The inside has an extra section of metal welded on to make it more sturdy. I measured the holes on my 4Runner, the holes on my tow mirrors and the holes on some mouse ear mirrors for a guy a while back and they were all the same measurement. Center to center the holes should be 2 3/4". There's a discussion here:

Compatible Mirrors - YotaTech Forums

^^Discussion is about pre 1984 trucks but the measurement on the newer style black plastic is the same. 2 3/4" oc.

I can confirm this. I changed from plastic mirrors to tow mirrors and the top holes were identical.

So in short, I have to pull off the interior panel and then go from there? or can I just take the screws off from the outside?...stupid question I know....thanks for the help though I really appreciate it!
 

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Take the screws off, take the mirror off, bolt the new mirror up where the two top screws on the old mirror were, squirt a little RTV in the two lower holes and screw those screws back in too so you don't get water in the door, and done.
 
Yes. You can change the mirrors from the outside. My point was that the factory installed reinforcement and the holes are the same on all the 84-89 4Runners and the corresponding pickups.

Thanks for the pictures. I would not have thought of that. I can see that serious off roaders might want to change the location of the O2 sensor due to the dangling wires. On mine they really dangle. I guess I could trim and solder but who cares. Any way it's nice to know I can use a regular cheap cat.
 
Yes. You can change the mirrors from the outside. My point was that the factory installed reinforcement and the holes are the same on all the 84-89 4Runners and the corresponding pickups.

Thanks for the pictures. I would not have thought of that. I can see that serious off roaders might want to change the location of the O2 sensor due to the dangling wires. On mine they really dangle. I guess I could trim and solder but who cares. Any way it's nice to know I can use a regular cheap cat.

Glad I could help out, and if you're thinking about going with a cheap cat, the flowmaster one I bought off of ebay was 90 something bucks and its pretty good performance and gas mileage wise so far.
 
Guess I'll post this in here too, and see if I get any help. So after installing the new fan clutch I have a little bit of slight rough idle at start up that lasts about 30 seconds and goes away, and every now and then at a stop light. Am I having head gasket issues or is this just because its cold outside and the oil needs to warm up. Btw I don't have any oil in the coolant and vice versa, I also dont see white smoke from my tail pipe and im not having CONSTANT over heating issues, I also changed my brake booster, plugs, wires, distributor rotar and cap not too long ago so I doubt its that. What could be causing this slight rough idle?
 
I saw some antifreeze on the passenger carpet today. That would explain why my coolant keeps getting low, the only way I noticed this was I finally cleaned the truck a few days ago, before that it was a dirty greasy mess. So this has probably been going on a while now. Anyone know what this means?
 
I would hope it's only a hose leaking for you, however that's the area the heater core is at. Coolant in the pass. floorboard rarely ends well ( or any other floorboard ). Hopefully you can flush the heater core out and clear things up. I'll keep an eye on your thread to learn for myself.. Good luck , nice build btw.
 
I would hope it's only a hose leaking for you, however that's the area the heater core is at. Coolant in the pass. floorboard rarely ends well ( or any other floorboard ). Hopefully you can flush the heater core out and clear things up. I'll keep an eye on your thread to learn for myself.. Good luck , nice build btw.

Yea I hope so too. I plan on flushing it tomorrow, and see what happens. I'll definitely post up the results once I find out what it is thats been causing this. And thanks man!
 
Got my new mirrors in today. But I'm having trouble figuring out how these mirrors are gonna stay on here. Do I bolt up the smooth side or the grooved side with the lettering and numbers? Maybe this would be easier if I had my truck in the driveway to bolt these up on, but its getting a new heater core at the shop smh.
 

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Forgive the noob question. I want to replace all the hoses and vacuum lines in my truck, all of them. What are the specific names of the hoses, and vacuum lines that I need to buy.
 
Forgive the noob question. I want to replace all the hoses and vacuum lines in my truck, all of them. What are the specific names of the hoses, and vacuum lines that I need to buy.

Comon I know someone in this forum knows what I need lol. I don't want to start a useless new thread!
 
You've got three radiator hoses, an upper and a lower and another that goes to the water pump, I forget if it's the feed or the return. The Trailgear kit is a great way to replace all three, and doesn't actually cost much more than getting those hoses from the dealer. You've got two large diameter hoses out of the valve cover, the PCV hose and breather hose, these you can fake with fuel hose but it might kink - the dealer has the right ones. One more large diameter hose out of the intake plenum is the brake booster hose. After that it's all small stuff, and which ones you've got depends on so many variables (what year, Fed or Cali emissions, etc) that nobody can tell you exactly what is where. You can go with the LCE kit above (or the same kit for less on EBay), but you'll pay too much. Get yourself ten feet or so of 3mm from wherever you can get it cheap and start replacing lines one at a time. If you run out, buy more. :)
 
That's Putney's. Haven't heard much about them, but what I've heard is good. He's expensive - you'll pay the same price for those OEM rad hoses from him that you'll pay TrailGear for silicone hoses, and the pricing on his vac hose is astronomical.

This isn't rocket science and you don't need a "kit". Walk into NAPA with a piece of your old vacuum line and have them whip you off about 10-12 feet of whatever is just barely smaller. It'll be about 50 cents a foot, if memory serves.
 
I can tell you from first hand experience - stay away from those colored silicone hoses! They will stretch out, and unlike the rubber hoses will not contract leading to vacuum leaks.

Like Kid says - just take a sample hose to NAPA, and get feet of hose and replace at will.
 
I see, yea his prices are pretty high! Well I guess Napa it is then! As always, thanks for the input guys. Much appreciated.
 
I can tell you from first hand experience - stay away from those colored silicone hoses! They will stretch out, and unlike the rubber hoses will not contract leading to vacuum leaks.

That's good to know, I was thinking about redoing the lines on the 3RZ in silicone. Who did you buy from?
 

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