Battery keeps dying

medicth

New member
So anyone else ever had this problem?
I have a 2005 limited V8 T4R.

Over the last couple weeks I have been having a recurring issue. If the truck sits for a day or two without driving it, then it is very slow to start, or the battery is completely dead and it won't start. When it won't start it just clicks when you turn the key. Like the battery is dead, which I am guessing it is.
The thing is I just replaced the battery less than 3 months ago.
I checked the battery when it was dead, and it was showing only 10 volts.
When the truck is running it shows 14 volts, which to me means the alternator is working right?
I have also confirmed there is nothing left on in the truck. No doors left open.

Do I have a short? Anybody have any ideas?
 
Register to hide this ad
Get the battery load tested. You may have got a bad battery. What kind is it? With the engine running check the voltage across the terminals. It should be 13 volt or higher. If much lower it is not charging.
 
Long shot

Its a carquest.

when the engine is running it shows 14 volts


I know it is a long shot but do you have seat covers? A friend of mine was freaking out because of a similar situation. Bichn at the dealer for a month. Then by accident one day one of the mechanics found that the seat cover was pushing one of the power seat adjustment buttons and it was draining the battery. This was prolly 4 years ago and we still give him sh!t for it. It was to funny....

I would check the main ground to frame. Changed a starter out once only to find that I wasn't grounded. Doh!
 
Last edited:
You may have a bad battery or you may have a parasitic drain.
Start by having the battery load tested, and it will have to be charged to do it.
 
Sounds like a possibly bad Alternator.

Go to an Automotive Parts Store & they'll test out the Battery & Alternator for you free of charge.
 
Any aftermarket equipment installed like radios, alarms etc.? If not, I would look into the alternator.
 
if the alt is puttin out 14v when its running it should be ok, id see if the place you got your battery will waranty it, i got a bad optima red top once...theyre not all perfect
 
Iam having the same problem with my 05 limited. My battery is new as well so i'll be keeping an eye on this thread.
 
Battery

Iam having the same problem with my 05 limited. My battery is new as well so i'll be keeping an eye on this thread.

Sounds like you have a bad battery.

I had the same problem a few months back.

If you have 14V at idle across the battery terminals the alternator is working fine.

What group battery do you have? I ask because there are 2 different sizes that parts stores will sell you but one has WAY MORE Reserve capacity which is what you want for these trucks. Sears had sold me one size and the one I got from Advance Auto was the same size as my old Panasonic and had more reserve capacity than the Sears one.

I bought a Sears Die hard Gold and after 9 months had the same issue you have. I got 14V at idle and so I brought it back to Sears to get my replacement. They kept it for 4 hours and then their 'Die Hard test machine' told me it was fine. :rant: I argued with the guy for a few minutes and then just took my business elsewhere. I'll never buy another Die Hard battery as long as I live.

I went to Advance Auto and bought an Autocraft Silver battery and my truck has been trouble free for months now.
 
Last edited:
I'm having a similar issue. Was driving to work when the radio (factory nav) shut off and the instrument cluster looked like a Christmas tree with all the lights on. I had to pull off the highway and get a tow to my shop. Diagnosed with a bad alternator. It's being put in tomorrow, so hope fully thats the only issue!! I will probably replace the battery too since the alternator drained it so much that it basically shut my T4R down while driving!! Not fun.
 
I have a 2006 4Runner limited. Battery keeps dying. Have had alternator, starter and 3 new batteries in the last year!!!! No one can seem to figure it out. Any thought?
 
Any updates on this?

I replaced the battery a few months ago. It's happened at least 20 times since then, I've been to the auto store to return the new battery and originally they claimed the alternator was done. I then took it to the mechanic and he found the bolts simply weren't tightened enough, tested the alternator and no issues.

Since then it's happened multiple times, does anyone have an update on this?
 
Last edited:
I replaced the battery a few months ago. It's happened at least 20 times since then, I've been to the auto store to return the new battery and originally they claimed the alternator was done. I then took it to the mechanic and he found the bolts simply weren't tightened enough, tested the alternator and no issues.

Since then it's happened multiple times, does anyone have an update on this?
Have you checked for a parasitic drain using a volt meter?
 
Have you checked for a parasitic drain using a volt meter?

I have a volt meter, I, unfortunately, am not well versed in it. I have 4 "inputs" and a plethora of options. I was messing with it yesterday and running them across the terminals was just sparking, I assume I was doing something incorrectly.
 
I have a volt meter, I, unfortunately, am not well versed in it. I have 4 "inputs" and a plethora of options. I was messing with it yesterday and running them across the terminals was just sparking, I assume I was doing something incorrectly.

Well, that doesn't sound good...you may have blown the fuses inside your meter.

Google search is your friend...many, many links like this available.

How to Use a Multimeter - Beginner's Guide | Random Nerd Tutorials
 
The link really doesn't show much in regard to taking a current reading.

Move red lead to Amps (A)

Move dial to Amps (A). If you have a cheap one make sure you are at the highest (A) reading first. Should be only mA when vehicle is off but who knows.

Remove (+) from battery

Put one lead on battery and one lead on disconnect cable.

Report back with readings. If nothing shows try to move (A) dial one down depending on what settings your meter has.
 
Years of personal experience and in auto parts taught me that new batteries are not infallable. Especially in the past couple decades as battery companies have been gobbled up by giants East Penn and Johnson Controls, who make the vast majority of aftermarket and OEM batteries. No matter the brand on the label.

The original post appeared that the alternator was working to overcome a weak battery. So I’m not going to go into a lot of armchair troubleshooting.

I’ve had a Sears Die Hard last me a decade in the 1970s through 1980s in my 1970 Ford F-250 4x4. I had the OEM Delphi in my 2002 Tacoma TRD last from June 2002 to December 2010. The OEM battery in my 2012 Outback lasted until last October.

Conversely, I had OEM batteries in new vehicles go dead in three to six months (a 1988 Ford Taurus, a 1996 Cadillac deVille Concours and a 1996 Chevrolet S-10). In May 2017 I replaced the battery in my Tacoma and it failed in October, 2018 (two days before that in my Outback). As a parts man I’ve seen bad cells in new stock, or the battery brought back after days to weeks after sale.

All chain auto parts stores offer free battery testing and are reasonably accurate if the counter person is motivated to do his/her job.

Batteries aren’t made like they use to be; vehicles are so much more complicated and place far higher demands on them then in the past. Short lived batteries are the new normal.
 
Last edited:

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,066
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top