Battery Recommendations?

Optima ten years ago and made in the USA, great battery. Maybe the best on the market.
Today and made in Mexico, not so much.

Never had a problem with Duralast batteries, in fact I am running their AGM battery per recommendation of fellow member Kball. Very nice battery. If you go for one from Advanced Auto, use the coupons first.

Napa I believe is still made by Deka and is quite good as well.
 
Optima ten years ago and made in the USA, great battery. Maybe the best on the market.
Today and made in Mexico, not so much.

Can you elaborate?
I spent many hours trying to find accurate, factual evidence that the optimas that are now made in mexico are any different, before I decided to go with my Yellow-top.
OptimaJim posts on many forums, most notably ExpeditionPortal providing answers and reasons that current Optimas are in fact, even more closely scrutinized than at the old factory. As a matter of fact, I read that only the cases are molded in the Mexican factory. Assembly still occurs in the USA. I believe the reason more Optimas lately are going bad is because of the time from charge to being in the customers hands. Batteries do self-discharge, and given enough time, can cause ANY battery problems.
Most people are very, very quick to assume they have a bad Optima when all they need to do is set it on a low amperage trickle charge and it would come right back to life.

I am not arguing that Optima is the best all around battery, but it is certainly still a very viable option.
 
LOL, the majority of these parts store batteries are made by Johnson Controls. I've seen Autozone batteries last 8 years and NAPA batteries last 2. It's all about the warranty and CCAs.
 
Yep, Johnson Controls owns most of the Market. DieHard (except for the Platinum), Interstate, Duralast, Costco, WalMart's batteries and more are all Johnson Controls and pretty much the same when you compare CCAs and warranty.

Deka is the other big player and they don't have a fraction of what JC has.
 
Advance auto parts has good deals on batteries if you use the coupon.

Awhile back, I picked up their store brand Silver battery with 2 year warranty for around $70 and it broke so within the last week of the warranty. They gave me a brand new one. However, the next time I get one, I will get the one with the 3 year warranty for about $10-$$20 more.
 
My current Costco battery only lasted 4 years (stamped 9/2011). I'm not too impressed. It would be covered by 60% warranty if I had a Costco membership though.
 
My first Optima red top was purchased in 1998 and put in my old 87 Toyota truck, when I bought my 4runner in 2001 I swapped it in, it finally died in 2012. I have always had an aftermarket stereo with at least 500 watts in amps and a sub. I would play my stereo camping back in the day for 2+ hours at almost full volume and it would start back up every time. So I purchased another red top and it's going strong so far, I sometimes forget to close my door all the way in the garage and the dome light stays on all night, starts right up everytime.
 
Can you elaborate?
I spent many hours trying to find accurate, factual evidence that the optimas that are now made in mexico are any different, before I decided to go with my Yellow-top.
OptimaJim posts on many forums, most notably ExpeditionPortal providing answers and reasons that current Optimas are in fact, even more closely scrutinized than at the old factory. As a matter of fact, I read that only the cases are molded in the Mexican factory. Assembly still occurs in the USA. I believe the reason more Optimas lately are going bad is because of the time from charge to being in the customers hands. Batteries do self-discharge, and given enough time, can cause ANY battery problems.
Most people are very, very quick to assume they have a bad Optima when all they need to do is set it on a low amperage trickle charge and it would come right back to life.

I am not arguing that Optima is the best all around battery, but it is certainly still a very viable option.

I had an Optima from 1998, it lasted until 2007. Great red top battery and made in the USA. Got another Optima RT to replace it, lasted only 16 months. The shop I got it from said his distributor was taking in many failing Optimas so they were not carrying them anymore and switching to Dekas.

My friend runs a farm and fishing business in Vermont. They used Optimas in all their autos since they first came out. They started to see early failures of Mexican made Optimas within a year of buying them. Their distributor ultimately dropped Optima in favor of Interstate. He told me every one in three to four failed early for them.

Not throwing Optima under the bus, or at least way under, but the product today IMHO is not as good as days gone by.
 
WOW!! Good stuff! Now that I think about it. The factory battery died on my GTR and I replaced it with a yellow top and it was bunk from the jump. I had to take it back for a refund. Never heard of them being no good. It all makes sense now.
 
I had an Optima from 1998, it lasted until 2007. Great red top battery and made in the USA. Got another Optima RT to replace it, lasted only 16 months. The shop I got it from said his distributor was taking in many failing Optimas so they were not carrying them anymore and switching to Dekas.

My friend runs a farm and fishing business in Vermont. They used Optimas in all their autos since they first came out. They started to see early failures of Mexican made Optimas within a year of buying them. Their distributor ultimately dropped Optima in favor of Interstate. He told me every one in three to four failed early for them.

Not throwing Optima under the bus, or at least way under, but the product today IMHO is not as good as days gone by.

My thoughts on recent failures are this: again, due to the increased time between when the battery (as an energy storage device) is provided with the initial charge, and when it reaches the customers hands, the battery has self discharged more than usual. An alternator is NOT a charger; I know you know this. It is a maintainer. If the battery is discharged below like, 80%, it will continue to discharge unless it is properly charged according to the right process which would be a sub-5ah trickle charge, simply because automotive alternators cannot regulate amperage.

My red top is going on 8 years, it was made in Mexico.
When I bought my yellow top, I put it on a trickle charge. I have since discharged it nearly fully 4-5 times and have had no issues with it coming back to full operation.
The charger I use only cost me 50$. Its a Noco Genius g3500 and has a 6v option. It has paid for itself 20 times over by now by saving friends batteries (not all optimas).

I have also brought "dead" optimas back to life using a regular 200amp charger by linking the optima with a known good lead acid battery in parallel and letting the charger sit for a few hours. Optima describes this process on their website.

Sure, you used to not need to go through all of this. But I'm confident that there is essentially no difference in quality other than the initial discharge.
 
Could the supposed increased failure rate of Optimas be attributed to the increased length from construction to installation? Sure, and I suppose it does along with how they may be stored or packaged from said manufacturing site. But there is no hard evidence or info, to support or refute such claims, available to the public.
 
Optima's had a problem when they first moved production to Mexico. They supposedly, weren't making them to the right specs and that cause a lot of problems for a year or two and basically put a big black mark on their name. Now, they are again, supposedly, making them to the right specs and should be as good as when made in Colorado. I had an original , bought in 2000, that lasted around 10 years. I bought a Mexican one for my wife's car that lasted around 3 years thanks to my wife killing it by leaving a map light on in her Mazda 3. Yes, a map light. 3 times was all it took and that battery would no longer hold a charge over 12 volts. Maybe a smart charger like a Noco ( I have one now ) would have saved it but I switched to Duralast Platinum and have them in all 3 of my vehicles and have had no issues for almost 4 years now.

As a disclaimer I will say, my wife has not left her map lights on since I switched so...?
 
Hi All,

My Costco battery (4 years old) that's in my 4Runner when I bought it is showing signs of giving up the ghost. It will sometimes crank over once or twice and then fall flat on its face. Other times I get nothing but a "click". It's been leaking a tiny amount of acid as well.

Here's what I've done so far as far as power demand:

  • Installed new car audio system, including two small amps and a subwoofer. I think this put my poor battery over the edge, after testing and trouble-shooting for a few weeks the battery has stopped working well.
  • Will be adding an LED light bar in the near future.

Here's what I've done to help the flow of power:

  • Big 3 wiring upgrade
  • LED interior lights (so when my wife leaves the door open all night the battery isn't dead)

I'm looking spend less than $150 on a battery that will perform well with a more powerful audio system but also provide plenty of CCA's. I don't want an oversized battery that will not fit or has reversed terminals if it can be avoided. I don't live in a cold climate, lows in the high 20's in winter but highs in the 100's in summer, but I do occasionally go up in the Sierras where freezing weather is normal, sometimes in the negatives. Wondering what you guys have used that has been reliable and long lasting.


So what battery did you end up going with?
 
Last year I bought a heavy duty (600+ cold CCA) battery from Costco for my 4Runner and it has worked out great.

I also keep a trickle charger in the windshield when I let the truck sit for days.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ZC3TFC

Recently I needed a new battery for my 08 TL but Costco didn't sell a compatible model so I went online and looked at Interstate's website, found the correct one, and went to my local Interstate vendor. The closest one was Firestone Auto and they gave me 10% off the website price.

Car and Truck Automotive Batteries - Buy a Vehicle Battery for Cars or Trucks | Interstate Batteries - Automotive / Truck

Interstate's website says the OEM CCA value for my 97 V6 4Runner was 380 CCA. They offer two batteries. I suggest you go for the better one which is 580 or 600 CCA for the MegaTron II.

$118 - 10% = $106 + tax


:bat:

+1 for Interstate. I've bought 1 for 2 different vehicles each over the past couple years and they work great. Priced around $130 from Firestone.
 
I'm looking spend less than $150 on a battery that will perform well with a more powerful audio system but also provide plenty of CCA's

This is exactly the battery I posted about. Interstate Megatron II.
 
So what battery did you end up going with?

Haven't got one yet. Talking with a member on here on what other options he has besides the Optima. To be honest though, I might go with the red top Optima unless he can get another AGM battery at a cheaper price. $150 is a great price for what you get, even if it doesn't last 10+ years like in the past.
 
I don't run the yellow top in the stock location. I'd be willing to be that it would still fit snug there. The red top is actually a little smaller. The previous owner who originally installed the red top 4 years ago didn't secure it properly, bending the tab on the hold down bracket so I've had to modify it but I know that it can be properly secured with no modification.

Those rags aren't doing anything to hold the red top in place BTW. They're there so I can check my oil and stuff while getting gas!

[MENTION=100687]Konkordmusk[/MENTION] Do you have a write up or anything on your dual battery set up? I am looking to put a yellow top right there and would love some input/advice/guidance if you have any.
 
Last edited:

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,050
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top