Battery Relocation

TerraCrawler

TerraCrawler

New member
I know Shrockworks makes a secondary battery kit. I think maybe some others do as well. This allows you to add/move the battery to the passenger side of the engine bay. What about actually moving the vehicle primary to that side? So in other words your auxiliary battery is in the normal stock location, and the primary vehicle battery is in the relocated position. This would require battery cables and more, does anyone make this?
 
Register to hide this ad
Signal said:
Because you can fit a Group 31 in the stock location, which is ideal for an Aux battery. A stock battery can be "relocated". It does not make sense to have a Group 31 to run the vehicle, and a smaller stock battery for the aux.
Click to expand...

see, now you will actually get some relevant advice because you've told us about your motives. Plenty of options for dual battery setups that won't require you to redo all the stock wiring. I put my group 31 behind the air box, and now run a group 27 in the stock location. the traditional secondary battery location was the only space under the hood where I could jam my compressor

GEYnNUi.jpg


there are kits out there which allow you to relocate the smog equipment and a/c hard lines to accomodate a group 31 on the passenger side as well. try searching for aux battery setups
 
Last edited:
Jono.ful said:
see, now you will actually get some relevant advice because you've told us about your motives.
Click to expand...

I have my compressor/tank/manifold in the location you used. So I need to use the forward passenger location which the Shrockworks kit takes advantage of. That location is not big enough for a Group 31, I believe only Group 34.
 
My concern is that's a whole bunch of connections to extend using really large gauge cable, complicating a system that's proven to be robust with multiple failure points. It'll put the starting battery pretty far from the alternator and confuse service techs as well. Personally I don't see the benefit for a slightly larger battery, especially when the stock alternator has trouble even charging a group 31. I understand your thinking though.

If it was me I'd keep the starting battery stock, install a dual battery kit on the passenger side with one of the aftermarket options, and invest in a nice solar setup to keep your aux batt topped off. These can be hard wired into a roof rack to run all the time, or you could set it up at camp as-needed. Simple and gives you real off the grid power capabilities.

Curious what other folks think here.
 
Here is a thread of my install of the off-grid kit. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/240658-off-grid-battery-kit-installation.html

I used a 24F battery since I didn't want to severely bend the AC line. Also, you need to find a place to mount the ML-ACR with a group 31 battery, I think off grid has the correct plate for this as does shrockworks, but you will have to remove additional wiring harnesses, which I'd prefer to avoid. The AGM group 31 is about 30% more capacity (750 vs 1000 Ah if I recall).

What I did is connect everything to the primary battery. If that battery cannot start the engine, I just press a button in the cab and the batteries link and then I can start. Less cutting/change from stock that way. IMHO, every change from stock setup reduces reliability - unless you are specifically modding to improve reliability, and even then...

The other advantage of that is that it is really hard to end up with 2 dead batteries because you left some lights on inside the vehicle over a 3 day period at camp, or something like that.
 
Signal said:
Because you can fit a Group 31 in the stock location, which is ideal for an Aux battery. A stock battery can be "relocated". It does not make sense to have a Group 31 to run the vehicle, and a smaller stock battery for the aux.
Click to expand...

See my comment about just running everything off the main battery (the 31) and keeping the aux as a pure backup. I still don't understand the logic of having things connected to both batteries - you lose the redundancy that way.

Also, I'd recommend getting two new batteries as it doesn't work as well charging wise to mix different designs (flooded stock with AGM new).
 
The location rear passenger has not proven a good location for a Group 31. Group 31 is 75+ lbs. That location is not re-enforced, it will cause damage to the vehicle if you actually wheel it. The only re-enforced locations I am aware of are the stock battery location and the location exact opposite of it on the passenger side.

It is possible I run JUST a group 31 (100 ah). I am investigating the dual battery options at this time. If I do dual battery I am keeping Group 31 as Aux.
 
Signal said:
The location rear passenger has not proven a good location for a Group 31. Group 31 is 75+ lbs. That location is not re-enforced, it will cause damage to the vehicle if you actually wheel it. The only re-enforced locations I am aware of are the stock battery location and the location exact opposite of it on the passenger side.

It is possible I run JUST a group 31 (100 ah). I am investigating the dual battery options at this time. If I do dual battery I am keeping Group 31 as Aux.
Click to expand...

What I am saying is put the group 31 in the stock location (making sure you have a bracket that can fit the 31 and the ML-ACR (my bracket for the stock position will not, but I believe Off Grid's new ones will, ask before you order). Then you put a 35 or other smaller battery in the passenger location.

Wire everything to the 31 in the stock location. Wire up a switch to the ML-ACR so you can force link the batteries from the cabin by pressing a button (my thread covers this).

Now, if the main battery (the 31) cannot start the car because you partied too hard, or left the fridge open the night before, you can press the button and crank the engine. If the battery is truly dead where it cannot supply enough current to move the ML-ACR solenoid (there is a 7 amp peak burst to move the magnetic latch), then you pop the hood and manually latch the solenoid. Now, crank the engine.

The only place I see this getting you in trouble is if the main battery somehow acts as a dead load and prevents the backup battery from cranking the engine, or it slowly drains the backup and then overloads the alternator. In this unlikely scenario you'd have to disconnect the main battery and manually latch the solenoid.

Also, are you going to run a winch? If so, I have some suggestions with regard to cabling - I'm in the process of designing my winch install now.

*edit*

Whoops, I missed the part where you said you have a compressor on the passenger fender. I'm planning to put a compressor on the other side, behind the fuse box, with the Slee bracket. If I need a tank, I'll put it in the drivers side wheel well, though that looks like a process I'd like to avoid.

Do you need to relocate the secondary air injection pump to use the passenger forward area? If so, where are you going to put that?
 
Last edited:
JSparky said:
<snip>

If it was me I'd keep the starting battery stock, install a dual battery kit on the passenger side with one of the aftermarket options, and invest in a nice solar setup to keep your aux batt topped off. These can be hard wired into a roof rack to run all the time, or you could set it up at camp as-needed. Simple and gives you real off the grid power capabilities.

Curious what other folks think here.
Click to expand...

For solar, I am looking at mounting a Morning Star MPPT and then using the powerfilm solar blanket when needed. I'll order the appropriate Delphi connector and crimper (assuming it isn't too pricey) to make a custom cable so it connects directly.

You can also just directly connect the panel to a CLA (the one in the back of the truck has the capacity, I think), but this isn't nearly as efficient as an MPPT charger.
 
mvt4r said:
For solar, I am looking at mounting a Morning Star MPPT and then using the powerfilm solar blanket when needed. I'll order the appropriate Delphi connector and crimper (assuming it isn't too pricey) to make a custom cable so it connects directly.

You can also just directly connect the panel to a CLA (the one in the back of the truck has the capacity, I think), but this isn't nearly as efficient as an MPPT charger.
Click to expand...

When I setup camp it will be typically in the evenings. And solar doesn't seem to re-charge very fast, but I realize it could be useful. So I have not factored solar in. Typically I will be setting up camp late, and maybe camped no more than 12 hours.
 
Signal said:
When I setup camp it will be typically in the evenings. And solar doesn't seem to re-charge very fast, but I realize it could be useful. So I have not factored solar in. Typically I will be setting up camp late, and maybe camped no more than 12 hours.
Click to expand...

In the summers, we have sun until 8pm, and with kids, I'd be in camp early enough and out late enough that it should get me some charge to make up for the devices. Alternator can take care of the rest. But yeah, even with bright sun, solar is slow.
 
Signal said:
The location rear passenger has not proven a good location for a Group 31. Group 31 is 75+ lbs. That location is not re-enforced, it will cause damage to the vehicle if you actually wheel it. The only re-enforced locations I am aware of are the stock battery location and the location exact opposite of it on the passenger side.

It is possible I run JUST a group 31 (100 ah). I am investigating the dual battery options at this time. If I do dual battery I am keeping Group 31 as Aux.
Click to expand...

my optima BlueTop D31 is 60lbs, the pelfreybilt cage sits on 1/4" steel plate which is supported on 3x5/8" carriage bolts and with fender washers to distribute the weight a little better. I wheel lots, and the stock sheet metal hasn't deflected at all. In fact, it doesn't even move when I try to shake it.
 
Last edited:
I have to Agree with Jsparky you are going to create issues with your OEM system and it may not be reliable. Dig deeper into dual battery Mods to see how others have done this. Check out "Keith PDX" dual Bat mod. from a couple of years ago.
 
Rack said:
I have to Agree with Jsparky you are going to create issues with your OEM system and it may not be reliable. Dig deeper into dual battery Mods to see how others have done this. Check out "Keith PDX" dual Bat mod. from a couple of years ago.
Click to expand...

I'm running the same shrockworks setup as Keith with a Blue Sea ACR and have been very satisfied with it.:thumb:

If I recall the OP has a compressor or something where the secondary air injection pump goes with the shrockworks kit. I forget if I mentioned it in another thread the OP started, but he could use a SLEE bracket for his compressor and sell whatever bracket he is using now, opening up space on the passenger side firewall for the air pump. Just another option.
 
JSparky said:
What are all you powering? Have you calculated what kind of loads you'll be drawing? There are online calculators than can help you determine what size battery is needed for a given setup. I honk XO recommend this one but there's several out there: https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/calculator-sizing-a-battery-to-a-load.html
Click to expand...

I have calculated load, but its a bit more involved than that. The real answer is, I want as much aH as I can fit into the space I have available. That is the cheapest and most efficient way to get power. Anything else, such as solar, is more expensive and less efficient. I would take 3 days of power, 3 weeks of power, or even 3 months if it were possible. I would take as much power as I can that is practical. That is probably what anyone would do. More power means I can camp longer. Obviously there are practical limits. For me it was 100aH of auxiliary power. This will get me, maybe close to 12-24 hours without needing to re-charge. Biggest draw is the fridge which can surge to 2amps, but is likely just under an amp under normal conditions. I am protecting myself with low voltage cut offs.
 
JSparky said:
I'm running the same shrockworks setup as Keith with a Blue Sea ACR and have been very satisfied with it.:thumb:

If I recall the OP has a compressor or something where the secondary air injection pump goes with the shrockworks kit. I forget if I mentioned it in another thread the OP started, but he could use a SLEE bracket for his compressor and sell whatever bracket he is using now, opening up space on the passenger side firewall for the air pump. Just another option.
Click to expand...

I have my dual compressor, air tank and manifold mounted in the rear passenger engine location. It's possible there is room for the pump, depending on where exactly it is going, I need to call Shrockworks to find out if it can still be located there. I have not looked extensively at the wiring of the 4Runner that is mentioned I would compromise. In other cars I have had the battery cables are very basic, just cables which can be replaced, they wouldn't even necessarily be longer or much longer, as the battery is going in the same location just opposite side. That off-road engineering kit that was linked is a fortune but its possible they could sell me just the parts I need, I may call them to chat.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 368 (members: 3, guests: 365)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,305
Messages
3,554,042
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top