Battery Setup For SnoMaster Fridge

[MaddoxPics]

I've researched, I have, but the whole battery thing is flat-out confusing for me. I just don't understand it too well so I'm hoping some of you can help clear it up for me. Or tell me what you run.

I have a 5th Gen.

I have a twin air compressor mounted where the dual battery would normally go, so I'm not sure if I can run a dual battery nor am sure I want to run one, but that's up for discussion.

Ideally I'd like to run a 31M battery. I know I need to replace the battery tray to support that, but I've read in some cases that it's causing some cracking in the fender metal. I don't know if that's from battery weight and off-roading (I off-road a lot), people abusing their vehicles more or what. It didn't seem EVERYONE had that issue, but a couple did.

Wiring. This really isn't a huge issue for me as I'll probably pay someone. I found some options to get around soldering wires, but still would feel more comfortable with someone else doing it correctly.

Voltage Booster. I read somewhere, not sure if here or elsewhere, that the standard alternator stops charging once the battery reaches a certain point, but the 31M batteries need more which leaves the battery only half charged. Do I need one? Is that not true? Will the alternator wear down quicker trying to keep a 31M charged?

If I use the power in the rear of the 4Runner, the cigarette lighter socket one, will that still give me enough power? But also give me the ability to still monitor the battery and use the cutoff? Or does that have to be hardwired in order for those options to be used?

I think those were my main concerns. I personally don't need a fridge, but the wife loves the idea of one for our longer trips, so I'm thinking about going that route. Would like to get more info on my "worries" before I do anything though.

Thanks for any help and clarifications.

 

[themuffinman619]

Look into a 27f instead.

 

[Seymore Butts]

You may want to consider a pre-packaged 2nd battery kit offered by Off Grid Engineering. It will be a ready to go system for under the hood installation. You may need to relocate the compressor, but that's easy.

 

[Titanpat57]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/213730-2016-roam-4runner-build.html

PM with any specific questions....Ill walk you through it. Slee also sells battery terminal extension kits now.

You can do it with a fairly good skill level, I don't think you need a second battery, just carry a li-ion jump pak if you kill the battery.

 

[violation]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/213730-2016-roam-4runner-build.html

PM with any specific questions....Ill walk you through it. Slee also sells battery terminal extension kits now.

You can do it with a fairly good skill level, I don't think you need a second battery, just carry a li-ion jump pak if you kill the battery.

at least link us straight to the relevant post, man!

 

[Titanpat57]

at least link us straight to the relevant post, man!

so the second post is too far for you to scroll down???...really, man?

 

[e60ral]

I've researched, I have, but the whole battery thing is flat-out confusing for me. I just don't understand it too well so I'm hoping some of you can help clear it up for me. Or tell me what you run.

I have a 5th Gen.

I have a twin air compressor mounted where the dual battery would normally go, so I'm not sure if I can run a dual battery nor am sure I want to run one, but that's up for discussion.

Ideally I'd like to run a 31M battery. I know I need to replace the battery tray to support that, but I've read in some cases that it's causing some cracking in the fender metal. I don't know if that's from battery weight and off-roading (I off-road a lot), people abusing their vehicles more or what. It didn't seem EVERYONE had that issue, but a couple did.

Wiring. This really isn't a huge issue for me as I'll probably pay someone. I found some options to get around soldering wires, but still would feel more comfortable with someone else doing it correctly.

Voltage Booster. I read somewhere, not sure if here or elsewhere, that the standard alternator stops charging once the battery reaches a certain point, but the 31M batteries need more which leaves the battery only half charged. Do I need one? Is that not true? Will the alternator wear down quicker trying to keep a 31M charged?

If I use the power in the rear of the 4Runner, the cigarette lighter socket one, will that still give me enough power? But also give me the ability to still monitor the battery and use the cutoff? Or does that have to be hardwired in order for those options to be used?

I think those were my main concerns. I personally don't need a fridge, but the wife loves the idea of one for our longer trips, so I'm thinking about going that route. Would like to get more info on my "worries" before I do anything though.

Thanks for any help and clarifications.

you can spend $10 on a basic metal tray all the way up to $130 for a metal cage. If you want really good support LFD makes a battery cage for $70 LFD Off Road - Group 31M Battery Tray
I think most fender cracking issues are from people using the stock plastic tray, although there was at least one person who had the issue come back with a battery cage. It's not the end of the world to fix, just keep an eye on it.

Yes, you need a voltage booster because the AGM needs a higher voltage to properly charge. The alternator is related to the voltage issue but it is also about capacity. The issue is that the alternator can only supply so many amps of charging, so if you discharge a lot of the battery capacity and then just drive short trips the alternator doesn't have enough time to replenish the battery. You can get a high output alternator or use a charger to maintenance charge your battery to make sure it's not staying discharged for long periods of time (which causes sulfation and reduces the lifespan and capacity of your battery). If I'm just driving to the office and home I'm only driving about 30mins per day which is not enough charging to replenish the capacity the fridge used up, so I plug in the charger occasionally overnight or on weekends.

The rear cigarette lighter is not sufficient for your fridge, the issue is the wiring in the plug causes enough voltage drop that most fridges have issues because of the voltage protection feature. It's cheap and easy to run a dedicated plug in the rear even if you have no experience, use a marine style locking plug or swap to anderson connections. Oversize the wire to prevent any voltage drop issues (I just went ahead and ran 8ga to the rear which is overkill since it barely cost any more for the amount I needed)

If you're using a fridge you will need to upgrade your battery, I used mine with my stock battery and it killed it pretty quick from constantly discharging it too much even with the fridge on the highest voltage setting. a 27m is a bit lighter and smaller than the 31m and has about 90% of the capacity. If you want any chance of the fridge lasting a weekend I would not go smaller than a 27, although if you just need it to last a day or so you could get a 34m which is even smaller and lighter than the 27 and has about 60% of the capacity of a 31m.

If you want a fridge I say get it, out of all the modifications and gadgets and farkling i've done to vehicles I've owned, the fridge is by far the most useful in both day to day use and when travelling/camping.

 

[MaddoxPics]

you can spend $10 on a basic metal tray all the way up to $130 for a metal cage. If you want really good support LFD makes a battery cage for $70 LFD Off Road - Group 31M Battery Tray
I think most fender cracking issues are from people using the stock plastic tray, although there was at least one person who had the issue come back with a battery cage. It's not the end of the world to fix, just keep an eye on it.

Yes, you need a voltage booster because the AGM needs a higher voltage to properly charge. The alternator is related to the voltage issue but it is also about capacity. The issue is that the alternator can only supply so many amps of charging, so if you discharge a lot of the battery capacity and then just drive short trips the alternator doesn't have enough time to replenish the battery. You can get a high output alternator or use a charger to maintenance charge your battery to make sure it's not staying discharged for long periods of time (which causes sulfation and reduces the lifespan and capacity of your battery). If I'm just driving to the office and home I'm only driving about 30mins per day which is not enough charging to replenish the capacity the fridge used up, so I plug in the charger occasionally overnight or on weekends.

The rear cigarette lighter is not sufficient for your fridge, the issue is the wiring in the plug causes enough voltage drop that most fridges have issues because of the voltage protection feature. It's cheap and easy to run a dedicated plug in the rear even if you have no experience, use a marine style locking plug or swap to anderson connections. Oversize the wire to prevent any voltage drop issues (I just went ahead and ran 8ga to the rear which is overkill since it barely cost any more for the amount I needed)

If you're using a fridge you will need to upgrade your battery, I used mine with my stock battery and it killed it pretty quick from constantly discharging it too much even with the fridge on the highest voltage setting. a 27m is a bit lighter and smaller than the 31m and has about 90% of the capacity. If you want any chance of the fridge lasting a weekend I would not go smaller than a 27, although if you just need it to last a day or so you could get a 34m which is even smaller and lighter than the 27 and has about 60% of the capacity of a 31m.

If you want a fridge I say get it, out of all the modifications and gadgets and farkling i've done to vehicles I've owned, the fridge is by far the most useful in both day to day use and when travelling/camping.

Thanks. You and another member have helped me understand this all much better, though they said a voltage booster isn't necessary. Granted I believe that's because I said I would be using a 12V at home charger to help keep it charged when I'm not on the trail.

I think I'll go with the 31M just for peace of mind. Normally I run the vehicle for multiple hours a day. New camp spot to new camp spot, but sometimes we may just hang out and relax all day at camp, depending on how it looks.

Was looking at that battery tray so that may settle it for me. Not that I'm trying to be cheap or anything, but seems to be recommended and looks good.

After talking with the other member, and a few on IG, it looks like I'll for sure be running a dedicated line back there, which I think is the smart way to go about it. Plus they usually come with an extra connection or two for USB, etc which could be nice.

What all is needed for the direct line? I know some people run breakers and other things.

 

[e60ral]

google "zip wire", it's red and black wire that makes it really easy. you'll probably need 20-30'. If you treat it as a critical circuit and use a 3% voltage drop you'll want at least 10 AWG wire. Then get a fuse for the positive side near the battery, ring terminals to attach the wire to the battery, spade connectors, a marine style 12v plug (spade connectors will attach to this), and a crimping tool.

or just buy the ARB wiring kit, you can get this from amazon or a bunch of places ARB FRIDGE FREEZER WIRING KIT & THREADED SOCKET (10900027)

(alternatively, instead of buying the supplies or ARB kit you could get a "amp wiring kit" however if you go that route there are a few things to keep in mind 1) it will only have positive from the battery and use a local ground near the plug which isn't ideal for the fridge but probably fine 2) wire might not be long enough 3) wire in cheap kits is sometimes smaller gauge then claimed)

run the zip wire through one of the grommets on the firewall, through the raceway under the door sills (they pop right off), and for the last step you use a coat hanger or something to fish the wire to the plastic over the rear tire wells on whichever side you want your 12v plug/fridge

 

[themuffinman619]

If you're using a fridge you will need to upgrade your battery, I used mine with my stock battery and it killed it pretty quick from constantly discharging it too much even with the fridge on the highest voltage setting. a 27m is a bit lighter and smaller than the 31m and has about 90% of the capacity. If you want any chance of the fridge lasting a weekend I would not go smaller than a 27, although if you just need it to last a day or so you could get a 34m which is even smaller and lighter than the 27 and has about 60% of the capacity of a 31m.

If you want a fridge I say get it, out of all the modifications and gadgets and farkling i've done to vehicles I've owned, the fridge is by far the most useful in both day to day use and when travelling/camping.

How about a 24m battery?

 

[TCLLC]

here is what I did, I put a power tray under the hood with a 16 fuse blue seas fuse box, I have a fuse on the battery, two breakers before the fuse box (only one is for the box, the other will be for something else tbd). I have custom made welding cables for power and an outlet in the back for the fridge. I know its a lot, but I wanted full protection just in case something happened.

all of this stuff you can get from powertrays.com, I even had him make the wire for the fridge outlet

if you have any questions feel free, I really like what I have done, I have added more to this since the pictures (fuse box only has the front light bar, but there is quite a few more things now), but its a real easy thing to do, a lot easier than you think. I wanted it separate from the factory wiring, and I can turn it off if needed. please excuse the water spots on the tray.

 

[e60ral]

How about a 24m battery?

good option in regards to size/weight if you just need to run the fridge overnight or are in a climate with mild temps, in harsh conditions i wouldn't trust it for more than an overnight though


^welding cables for a fridge? i guess you're future proofed at least if you want to get a rear hitch mounted winch now