Been chasing a brake pull problem for 2 years!!!

[jman11788]

So heres how the brakes are acting.

First thing when I drive as the brakes aren't hot yet they operate as they should and dont pull. As soon they get warmer and speeds above 40, especially going down hill it darts hard to the right! Imperfections in the rode make the steering go crazy. The steering gets really tight when you apply them and the steering wheel tries to correct itself. Alighnment is good, truck tracks straight as an arrow.

January 2015: Tundra brake upgrade and the truck braked perfect
March 2016: Cheap LCA bushings were changed and front diff was replaced. The truck drove fine after this but a few months later the brakes started pulling dangerously bad so i replaced the LCA bushings again with Whiteline.
The Brake pull got noticeably better but after a couple days of driving I could still notice a brake pull at high speeds

Ive replaced the calipers twice, rotors twice along with pads. Bled the system a million times, rotated tires, checked psi, All ball joints and tie rods are fairly new and all OEM, new SPC UCAs. Truck is lifted 3'' with 33s and wheel spacers. Ive also have done the rear brakes a couple times making sure things were adjusted properly. Also rear axle seals are not leaking.

Ive put the truck on jacks on all 4's and put in in 4wd trying to see if all the tires stop evenly and they do... I dont know what else to check..

 

[JZiggy]

If you stop after a long highway drive are any of your wheels warm, indicating a brake could be dragging?

Have you changed your brake flex lines? Maybe one is starting to break down internally and you have a clog?

 

[jman11788]

If you stop after a long highway drive are any of your wheels warm, indicating a brake could be dragging?

Have you changed your brake flex lines? Maybe one is starting to break down internally and you have a clog?

I just ordered a laser temp reader. But by checking by hand they all feel the same and don’t seem notoriously hot. Haven’t changed any of the brake hoses. Is there a way to know if one is for sure bad before I replace one and bleed the system again

 

[nchacon1984]

Currently having the same issue. All new components as well except for LBJ and LCA. I found this post a while back and going to check if the LCA is bad.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/212387-pulls-left-when-braking-brakes-good.html

 

[Cree]

I'm fighting the same right pull. I think it's either a drum out of adjustment, possibly panhard related, or slight chance of the rear control arms having a bad bushing. Haven't had time to dig in that far yet.

 

[lbhsbz]

Change the front brake hoses.

 

[wcjeep]

I had a Dodge Diesel start this problem. Problem was bad OEM rubber brake line. When replacing be sure all brake lines are of the same material. Either all braided stainless steel or all rubber. Rubber lines (new or old) have a little give. Braided stainless steel has zero give. On my Dodge I only swapped the front lines. I could immediately tell something was off. The worn rear rubber line had give while the front had zero give. Changing everything to stainless steel returned brake harmony.

 

[Cree]

Change the front brake hoses.

Just put stainless lines on from Wheelers.

 

[Mzs14]

I'm fighting the same right pull. I think it's either a drum out of adjustment, possibly panhard related, or slight chance of the rear control arms having a bad bushing. Haven't had time to dig in that far yet.

I too suffer from this issue, I am thinking it is the panhard but I won’t know until my elocker axle assembly with the pck welded on is installed. Is everybody lifted in this thread without a pck installed?

 

[Cree]

I too suffer from this issue, I am thinking it is the panhard but I won’t know until my elocker axle assembly with the pck welded on is installed. Is everybody lifted in this thread without a pck installed?

I am. Oddly my SR5 didn't do this. Literally took the brakes and suspension off of it and installed it on my Limited. Did add UCAs though. Its not in the front though. Its more of a drift than a hard pull.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

I'm a super huge advocate of [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION]'s PCK, but I really don't see how that being out of proper alignment could cause your braking issue. I may be wrong, but I also didn't experience that with either of my rigs with almost 4" of lift with a stock- uncorrected- panhard.
The rubber line theory makes sense, and would be a nice upgrade- whether it solves your issue or not.
Do you happen to have a print out of your current alignment specs? Since it seems to be affected by heat, I'm sure the alignment isn't the problem, I'm just curious.

 

[JayRolla]

I also have this issue. But I'm also getting times when braking that the power assist stops working. I've replaced all brake components including the brake booster and checked all vacuum hoses. But I still have old brake lines and original master cylinder. Damn rig is pissing me off and getting dangerous.

 

[Mchaz]

I have been chasing a brake pull and vibration too. Mine only happens during harder braking or braking from higher speeds (40+). The vehicle jerks right then the wheel corrects the course back mostly straight by "auto" counter steering.

I've also ruled out calipers/rotors by doing a Tundra upgrade and SS lines. I have also replaced UBJs, LBJs, OTRE, and ITREs. Mine is still on it original control arm bushings, however, so I think my next step will be Whiteline bushings in the LCAs and SPC UCAs.

After reading the thread that's linked to several posts up, I think I will also be checking my LBJ/tie rod connections. Mine are new OEM Toyota, but it appears from that thread that there was a bad batch with oversize IDs where the OTRE attaches to the LBJ.

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk

 

[nissanh]

Just my input:
When installing the rear brake shoes, the left side and right side hardware should not be mixed. If mixed and left adjuster end up on the right side and vise versa the automatic adjusting (connected to park brake) will crank one to tighten the brake shoes while the other side to loosen it. I had this issue and spent few good days to figure it out.

 

[jman11788]

After reading the thread that's linked to several posts up, I think I will also be checking my LBJ/tie rod connections. Mine are new OEM Toyota, but it appears from that thread that there was a bad batch with oversize IDs where the OTRE attaches to the LBJ.

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk

I know which thread you’re talking about. I think the problem was they used Tacoma ball joints and the center bore where the tie rod connects is larger.


My ABS is disabled so maybe it’s making the brakes act weird? My master cylinder has also been real low on fluid when the system has been bled. I’ve seen a couple post this could possibly mess the MC up and having to replace the whole unit.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Then bleed the MC while it is on the truck. If fluid got too low, then that could be the problem. Given its age it may be worthwhile to invest in a new one and new front lines too.

 

[Cree]

I know which thread you’re talking about. I think the problem was they used Tacoma ball joints and the center bore where the tie rod connects is larger.


My ABS is disabled so maybe it’s making the brakes act weird? My master cylinder has also been real low on fluid when the system has been bled. I’ve seen a couple post this could possibly mess the MC up and having to replace the whole unit.

Does your e-brake work?

 

[jman11788]

Then bleed the MC while it is on the truck. If fluid got too low, then that could be the problem. Given its age it may be worthwhile to invest in a new one and new front lines too.

The MC didnt run on low fluid on its own. It ran low as i was bleeding it pushing old fluid out

 

[jman11788]

Does your e-brake work?

Works great

 

[Cree]

Works great

Try this then. Pull your rear drums and run your spoons in until they measure the same on each side. Put your drums back on then go set your adjusters with your e-brake and see if that takes care of it. if the wheel isn't jerking out of your hand when you hit the brakes I'm 95% certain it's the rear drums are out of adjustment. My e-brake doesn't work for me to go try this myself easily though.