Bench bleeding master cylinder

[stever1000]

Plenty of images out there on how to set up the lines to bleed the master cylinder.


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True, but most of them show in a vice, so I'm happy to hear I could use both methods to bleed

 

[19963.4lsr5]

True, but most of them show in a vice, so I'm happy to hear I could use both methods to bleed

All you need to take from those pictures is how the lines are looped into the tank and below the fluid.


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[nissanh]

I never bleed the master cylinder on its own. I connect the lines and then crack open all 4 bleeder valves on all 4 wheels for 5-10 minutes. Then I bleed at the wheels, that's it.

 

[nevada]

I never bleed the master cylinder on its own. I connect the lines and then crack open all 4 bleeder valves on all 4 wheels for 5-10 minutes. Then I bleed at the wheels, that's it.

you ever do that on an ABS rig? how do you keep from getting the abs module full of air?

 

[stever1000]

The mystery of the ABS is haunting

 

[stever1000]

I just picked up a new OEM master cylinder from Camelback toyota and it didn't come with plugs or a bleeding kit. Does anyone have recommendations on how to rig one up? Can I just thread brake line and a hose onto each end? Does it need to route back into the master cylinder resivoir or can I just route both ends into a bottle? What is more guaranteed to remove the bubbles, especially if it's installed on the vehicle?

I'm tempted to just try this and not have to bend the metal brake line...

https://www.amazon.ca/Dorman-13911-...3&sr=8-1&keywords=master+cylinder+bleeder+kit

Does anyone know the thread size for the master cylinder ports? I could also just buy 2 plastic fittings in that size with some clear hose and rig up my own...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IiGVA6KB8Ns

 

[stever1000]

I forgot about the gasket between the M/C and brake booster so I will grab one of those and try to install the new master cylinder...

 

[stever1000]

I just picked up a new OEM master cylinder from Camelback toyota and it didn't come with plugs or a bleeding kit. Does anyone have recommendations on how to rig one up? Can I just thread brake line and a hose onto each end? Does it need to route back into the master cylinder resivoir or can I just route both ends into a bottle? What is more guaranteed to remove the bubbles, especially if it's installed on the vehicle?

I'm tempted to just try this and not have to bend the metal brake line...

https://www.amazon.ca/Dorman-13911-...3&sr=8-1&keywords=master+cylinder+bleeder+kit

Does anyone know the thread size for the master cylinder ports? I could also just buy 2 plastic fittings in that size with some clear hose and rig up my own...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IiGVA6KB8Ns

Anyone have any suggestions on which route I should go with?
What are the fitting sizes at the master cylinder? Same as the rest of the fittings for the brakes?

 

[stever1000]

I ended up getting a kit but it came with black hose - pretty useless for seeing the bubbles.

I'm a bit confused about bleeding the master cylinder, then disconnecting the kit and attaching the OEM brake lines...wouldn't this let air in the system as well? Although I guess this would be downstream of the master cylinder.

The new master cylinder is installed and after I replace my brake line (SS flexible line instead of rubber) I will bleed the master cylinder on the car and then bleed all four wheels. I hate brakes ound:

Looking at this diagram from another vehicle, it looks like as long as I can jack up the rear enough to make the master cylinder semi-level I can get all the trapped air out

 

[nevada]

I ended up getting a kit but it came with black hose - pretty useless for seeing the bubbles.

I'm a bit confused about bleeding the master cylinder, then disconnecting the kit and attaching the OEM brake lines...wouldn't this let air in the system as well? Although I guess this would be downstream of the master cylinder.

The new master cylinder is installed and after I replace my brake line (SS flexible line instead of rubber) I will bleed the master cylinder on the car and then bleed all four wheels. I hate brakes ound:

the fluid will be running from the MC, air usually doesn't get pulled back in. with the lines, they don't usually lose any fluid. often times you can replace an MC without ever having to bleed the system.

but yes, if air got in the lines, they are after the MC, and its easy to get out.

 

[stever1000]

the fluid will be running from the MC, air usually doesn't get pulled back in. with the lines, they don't usually lose any fluid. often times you can replace an MC without ever having to bleed the system.

but yes, if air got in the lines, they are after the MC, and its easy to get out.

Ah that makes sense...

Hope I can get it done tonight

 

[stever1000]

For anyone that attempts this in the future, here is my advice:

Bleed the master cylinder OFF the vehicle. I didn't have a vice so I held it in one hand, with the end touching my concrete wall. With the other hand I used a blunt object to push the plunger in. Doing it this way I can tilt and move the M/C around freeing any trapped bubbles.

I tried it on the vehicle first, and looked like I got all the bubbles out, but because of the rake of the M/C there was some air trapped in the end. I let some air out of the front tires and jacked the rear end up as high as my jack would go. This was still not enough to get the master cylinder level. I tried anyway and failed. My second attempt was off the vehicle as mentioned above, and actually worked.

If you want to be stubborn like me, make sure you have some way of leveling the M/C before starting. This would result in an extreme downward angle of the vehicle overall... if the master cylinder isn't completely level there is still opportunity for air to be trapped at the end of the master cylinder.